Shimano Dura ace problems
My winter bike is 6 years old & is fitted with Dura ace. Problem now is that it rubs a lot on the front mech. So I put it on the stand and attempted to adjust the mech, but no matter what I do it still rubs a little. It seems there is quite a bit of play in the chainset as when you wind the pedal round looking down at the chain on the front mech it moves left and right a few mm's rather than running true and straight. Likewise this must be why it is rubbing worse when I get up on the pdeals, the pressure is obviously magnifying the problem.
Probably only done in the region of 2-3k miles on this bike, chain replaced regularly and rear cassette also changed, nothing else touched, but serviced once a year by the pro in the bike shop.
So is my chainset ready for the knackers yard or am I missing something here.
Bought a bike with Campag record on for summer use, and I must say I much prefer the gearing, no chain rub at all, so easy with the ratchet style adjustment on the levers. My duraace has always touched the front mech a little on the big cogs....has dura ace got better in the last 6 years with this adjustment or do you still have to put up with it a little?
I ask as a bike has come up for sale with a 2006 duraace, but I am sceptical about buying it as my campag seems to work so much better, but obvioulsy the DA on my other bike is 6 yrs old so maybe it is not a fair comparision
Probably only done in the region of 2-3k miles on this bike, chain replaced regularly and rear cassette also changed, nothing else touched, but serviced once a year by the pro in the bike shop.
So is my chainset ready for the knackers yard or am I missing something here.
Bought a bike with Campag record on for summer use, and I must say I much prefer the gearing, no chain rub at all, so easy with the ratchet style adjustment on the levers. My duraace has always touched the front mech a little on the big cogs....has dura ace got better in the last 6 years with this adjustment or do you still have to put up with it a little?
I ask as a bike has come up for sale with a 2006 duraace, but I am sceptical about buying it as my campag seems to work so much better, but obvioulsy the DA on my other bike is 6 yrs old so maybe it is not a fair comparision
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Comments
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Sounds more like a BB problem than actually the chainset IMHO. Alternatly, and much worse, have you checked the frame for cracks? I had a similar prob many years ago which eventually was traced to the frame. When I say traced it actually became blatantly obvious when the chainstay snapped right through. Have a check around the BB area. Could be knaked bearings or possibly the spindle has snapped, though I would have thouht the crank arms would part company with the frame if this was the case.0
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Could just be a warped/dented chainring.
Have you decked the bike at anytime?0 -
Nope never decked the bike, and its just come back from a service at the local bike shop.
its one of those things now that I have lost a little confidence in and think maybe after 6 yrs I might as well just get a new winter bike. I am 6'5" 15.5 stone so I am always conscious of weight & strain on parts and would much rather replace regularly than worry about breakages etc. Noght riding at the moment and the thought of being 40 miles away from home and getting some form of failure doesnt make for an enjoyable ride!0 -
that should read night riding not nought riding..doh..should preview first!0
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Chris5150 wrote:Nope never decked the bike, and its just come back from a service at the local bike shop.
its one of those things now that I have lost a little confidence in and think maybe after 6 yrs I might as well just get a new winter bike. I am 6'5" 15.5 stone so I am always conscious of weight & strain on parts and would much rather replace regularly than worry about breakages etc. Noght riding at the moment and the thought of being 40 miles away from home and getting some form of failure doesnt make for an enjoyable ride!
What ever you say then.
I'm not going to argue
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Oh well its a damned good excuse for getting a new bike then!!0
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It should be possible to work out where the wobble is coming from with a bit of experimentation and deduction. Take the chain off and remove the chainrings from the chainset. If you turn the cranks now and look down through the cage of the front mech using the edge as a guide, can you still detect the wobble, i.e. when the arms of the spider pass the mech are they always the same distance from it or not? If this looks OK, have a look at the chainrings to see if they are bent. Put them on a flat surface and it should be obvious. If the wobble is still there then the problem is somewhere in the bottom bracket area or (less likely but possible) in the frame. Does the bottom bracket seem OK otherwise, i.e. does it turn smoothly (it's easier to tell with the chain off) and can you feel any play in it if you hold the cranks at both sides and try to force them in and out without turning them?
You might only need to service the bottom bracket or replace a chainring, or you might need a new bottom bracket and/or crankset. But if you want an excuse to buy a new bike...
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It should be easy to check the outer chainring with a straight-edge. I did fall off my bike and after a few months of rubbing I realised the chairing was bent, after I had tried everything else! However as you haven't crashed the bike it is unlikely, Smoo's advice should narrow down the problem.0
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I had a similar problem with A Dura Ace chainset: this is the Octalink version (9 speed group). It was when the bike was new. The bottom bracket on these needs careful set-up - they are effectively like the traditional BBs- and need to be adjusted with care. Mine was installed in such a way that there was about 4mm side to side movement- i.e. wrongly! Everything appeared fine - the roller bearings make it more difficult to feel the play resulting from incorrect adjustment, until I noticed the lateral movement. Cartridge BBs these days take all the skill out of set-up, which is a bit of a shame, but also more convenient.0
