lubricating gear cables

johnnypipe85
johnnypipe85 Posts: 145
edited October 2007 in MTB workshop & tech
hi guys!

I've just fitted new Avid Flack Jacket gear cables to my bike and was wondering wether I should lube it lightly or not. there's no mention of that on the manual..

thanks!

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    teflon coated so should not require lubing.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • johnnypipe85
    johnnypipe85 Posts: 145
    great, thanks!!!
  • toasty
    toasty Posts: 2,598
    I was considering a similar set on my FSR, the cable routing runs the entire length of the bike, it's only a month or so old and already they're really sticking, it'll stick when trying to drop down gears yet be perfectly fine on the upshifts. I've tweaked it to bits but often the derailleur won't budge at all on single downshifts.

    Would a cable set like this lower the chances of this happening or is it just a maintanance thing, obviously being a fully routed cable it make it impossible to grease the cable without removing it from the derailleur. :x


    Oh one other thing, the body angle screw thing on the rear derailleur needed adjusting slightly as it made a grinding sound in the largest rear ring (which is 34 tooth), I wonder if a smaller cassette and teflon gear cable set would change much.
    Stumpy FSR 29er
  • jayson
    jayson Posts: 4,606
    Rather than flak jackets buy a set of Flying Snakes sealed cables instead because they're completely sealed from the shifter right down to the front/rear mech instead of being open with a sheath cover over the open cable runs.

    They really are impervious to water,grit and general crap, its one of the absolute best upgrades u can make to ur bikes transmission in my humble opinion.
    Remedy

    Merida

    Austria 2012
  • toasty
    toasty Posts: 2,598
    I've seen just as many bad reviews of flying snakes as I have good ones, underneath the funky carbon housing aren't they just steel wire?
    Stumpy FSR 29er
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    i just run stainles cables and outers and replace as required.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Same here.
    GT ZASKAR CARBON TEAM

    VOODOO CANZO

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  • toasty
    toasty Posts: 2,598
    Ah cheers, might just get a new rear set for a couple of quid in that case.
    Stumpy FSR 29er
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Toasty wrote:
    Ah cheers, might just get a new rear set for a couple of quid in that case.
    be careful as some of the cheap ones are not stainless but just mildsteel with a coating/plating.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Neily03
    Neily03 Posts: 295
    Toasty wrote:
    I was considering a similar set on my FSR, the cable routing runs the entire length of the bike, it's only a month or so old and already they're really sticking, it'll stick when trying to drop down gears yet be perfectly fine on the upshifts. I've tweaked it to bits but often the derailleur won't budge at all on single downshifts.

    I'm having the same trouble on my 6 week old FSR.... gona try have a look at it again this week.
    Transition Covert.
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    I use Transfil Mudlovers, they are fully sealed and have been totally maintenance free for the whole year. The inner sheath starts inside the shifter housing and ends 2mm from the cable bolt on the rear mech. Shifting is as smooth as when I first fitted them. They are a good price too at about £15.
  • toasty
    toasty Posts: 2,598
    Could I just buy a set of teflon coated inners to replace the cheap normal ones? It just seems to be friction in the big 2 meter outer on there. Not sure how water/mud got in there but it's been ever since a particularly rough ride.

    I also have an XT derailleur lying around I might give a short, no real difference I know but it can't harm :)
    Stumpy FSR 29er
  • timberjack
    timberjack Posts: 279
    Neily03 wrote:
    Toasty wrote:
    I was considering a similar set on my FSR, the cable routing runs the entire length of the bike, it's only a month or so old and already they're really sticking, it'll stick when trying to drop down gears yet be perfectly fine on the upshifts. I've tweaked it to bits but often the derailleur won't budge at all on single downshifts.

    I'm having the same trouble on my 6 week old FSR.... gona try have a look at it again this week.

    I have had the same problem as you two but it is the shifters were full of cr*p, if you clean them they work perfectly but be careful taking them to bits as finding all the springs and things on the shed floor and then working out where they go takes about 2 hours
    Bianchi Via Nirone 7 Alu/Carbon, 2011
    Specialized Stumpjumper, 07
    Genisis Altitude 30, 09
    Giant XTC4, 04
  • artillerydave
    artillerydave Posts: 715
    I've got a set of the Avid flak jackets on my hartail and i have found them to be great, i did use a bit of grease on them during fitting and it is still visible under the red covers after about 6 months, bike cleaned after each ride however have not needed to touch the cables at all, i would recomend them. with XT shifting it has stayed slick and sharp. Also the XT dual release shifters take some beating, miles better than Sram shifters.
  • u02sgb
    u02sgb Posts: 4
    Hi,
    I used middleburn oilers to make oiling the cable easier. Just roll off the rubber grommet and put your GT85 tube into the hole. This was on my old V-brakes but I'd imagine it'd be good on gear cables too.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=3318

    Cheers,
    Stu.

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