Removing a QR seatpost clamp...

clipper
clipper Posts: 60
edited September 2007 in MTB workshop & tech
I’ve lost patience with the QR clamp that came as standard on my Orange P7 letting the seatpost slip and want to get a plain old bolt one. Problem is having removed the QR lever the clamp seems to be held in place by a lip on the shim for the seatpost which doesn’t want to move anywhere. Do I need to remove the shim first (and if so what’s the best way) or should the clamp prise apart to lift over the lip? Cheers.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    tbh it sounds like that is your problem. the shim should be under the clamp.

    assembly should be put shim in seat tube fit clamp and then insert the seat post.

    got a picture of your set up?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • clipper
    clipper Posts: 60
    hopefully these make it easier to see where i'm getting stuck

    http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1489563/
    http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1489564/
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    time to get the rubber mallet out.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    Give it a squirt of WD40 (or whatever), then try to get a screwdriver blade into the slot in the spacer - if you can get it to rotate a wee bit it might free up enough to come out.

    Failing that, it's probably a screwdriver under the lip of the spacer and tap it upwards. once you've got it to move upward a smidgen, swap sides and keep tapping upwards on opposite sides alternately.

    Failing that, try heating it carefully with a blowtorch. The expansion of the metal is often enough to free things up.
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.
  • clipper
    clipper Posts: 60
    Thanks for the pointers. I'll need to go and acquire the tools for the job. Glad i paid the premium for a bike assembled in the UK...
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    but is the seatpost and /or shims should be greased. ocasionally.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    nicklouse wrote:
    but is the seatpost and /or shims should be greased. ocasionally.
    Almost anything you might ever want to take apart should have a bit of grease on when it goes together, I have a big tub of copper grease in my garage for that very purpose.

    Clipper - is there any reason you can't just stick a big nut and bolt through the QR clamp and save yourself the trouble? Might need drilling out a tadge but that's not difficult and you're planning to bin it anyway.
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    take care with the copper paste it is not GREASE just an anti sieze compound.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • clipper
    clipper Posts: 60
    knocked it out with a claw hammer - frame had rusted itself onto the shim. is it worth replacing or just fit again after a clean and grease?
  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    nicklouse wrote:
    take care with the copper paste it is not GREASE just an anti sieze compound.
    I beg to differ.

    You're right, though, that it's not intended for lubricating moving parts.
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.
  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    edited September 2007
    clipper wrote:
    knocked it out with a claw hammer - frame had rusted itself onto the shim. is it worth replacing or just fit again after a clean and grease?
    Cool. Violence is the answer. :mrgreen:

    Whether you replace it depends on how bad condition it's in and how difficult / expensive it'll be to get a new one. If you stick it back in, I'd give it a clean up with wet 'n' dry (or similar) to take any burrs and rust off then make sure it slides smoothly in and out (oo-err!). With that and a little grease, it should come out a bit easier next time
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.
  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    Oops! Double posted that last answer... :oops:
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.

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