Dyno-Batt: A portable power supply system for dyno hubs
ktronik
Posts: 10
Hi All,
The Dyno-Batt:
A portable power supply system for the dynamo hub.
We start with a 'martin' 'series cap' config, using the high ripple caps, 3A Sk diodes & a 0.047F super cap (2) for smoothing cap. A simple & proven system for powering, from hub dynamo, up to 12.4w into 3 series LED's... simply the brightest dyno LED system around.
To this we add a dedicated trickle charging circuit (Martin again) for the supercap power supply (4 / 55F, 2.5v, series wired). This makes sure their is power to the main LED from the very first second, even if the main capbattery bank is empty.
Once the capbattery is full, power is then returned to the main LEDs & the capbattery stays topped up.
It now has a bflex regulated output.
OUTPUT SIDE:
Here we can see the input (dyno) & output (dyno-minT or fixed lighting)
The 3 switches are:
Main LED power (from dyno to 3 LEDs), On / Off, Capbattery charge, On / Off
Capbattery power, Full / off / Low
MON on, bflex output
From this I can:
Charge & RUN main LEDs
RUN main LED's (only)
RUN main LEDs (or fixed lighting) ONLY, no dyno.
From the bflex output:
I can run a tail light or another front light (set to strobe maybe) or just as a standlite, as its controlled by the bflex you can do as you wish...run a camp light.
once I get USB power output you can even charge your GPS / ipod...
I can have the caps output track the voltage level (full out), so if I have just come off a fast down hill, the caps will be charged & I get the same brightness as if I was going fast, for a few more minutes... when slowing down for a turn then hammering off down the hill again, you don't want the, dyno powered light to dim into the corner.
The cap will then drain to follow the current Vf of the LEDs. If you are going fast again, then you are always running @ full brighness. For this system is 12.4w (Max).... so thats near 720lm!! Yep brighter than most HID's...anyway chuck this on your MTB & you can ride all night!!!
OR have it in Capbattery LOW, this gives a minimum standby power from many hours. So if I go slow or stop, the light will still be lit...at the minimum set brightness.
The dyno-batt is made to run the main LED light up to 12.4w, the 'Dyno-minT'.
BUT was really made for 'the BIG tour'...
MK2 will have USB power output + A solar panel & handcrank input.... so you can charge your 'ipods, PDA, GPS, batterys & phones...on the move or @ the camp...+ I will wire the bflex voltage STAT LED to tell me when the caps are full...(for extra brownie points)
The dynamo can be run in the rear hub, of the BOB style trailer... as its a 16" wh, the hub get more power @ lower speed... perfect for that 'forever-lasting' power, on your next big world trip!!!
Well I just added a switched, bflex regulated output, so bottom right switch is now a mom ON for the bflex...driven from the caps & a sep output for the 1 LED camping light...this is so I can use the caps volts down to around 3v + driver. (hey it was lying around)
The output has a switched action, so remove the plug & you cut the power to the bflex... this is to stop the bflex starting up when the LED is NOT connected... not a good thing for this driver...
I have found some thin flexible solar panels about 8v worth (4 strips).. i will attached these to the outside of the box to keep the caps topped up. Mainly for camping as a good ride will fill them up quite quickly.
I have got a 12v handcrank ready to go...
I have a spare dynamo hub for the rear of the BOB...err I have no time to go anywhere as I am too busy making new toys to go on my world trip..
Dyno-batt Mk2:
(left side pic input / output)
Bflex regulated output driving a front MXDL SSC P4 (UIB strobe mode)
LED low capbatt warning
Solar / charger/ 12v car, input for the capbattery charging
:thumbsup:
K
all good FUN... what ever gets me out on my bike I say!!
www.ktronik.com/LED.html
www.cncdelite.com
The Dyno-Batt:
A portable power supply system for the dynamo hub.
We start with a 'martin' 'series cap' config, using the high ripple caps, 3A Sk diodes & a 0.047F super cap (2) for smoothing cap. A simple & proven system for powering, from hub dynamo, up to 12.4w into 3 series LED's... simply the brightest dyno LED system around.
To this we add a dedicated trickle charging circuit (Martin again) for the supercap power supply (4 / 55F, 2.5v, series wired). This makes sure their is power to the main LED from the very first second, even if the main capbattery bank is empty.
Once the capbattery is full, power is then returned to the main LEDs & the capbattery stays topped up.
It now has a bflex regulated output.
OUTPUT SIDE:
Here we can see the input (dyno) & output (dyno-minT or fixed lighting)
The 3 switches are:
Main LED power (from dyno to 3 LEDs), On / Off, Capbattery charge, On / Off
Capbattery power, Full / off / Low
MON on, bflex output
From this I can:
Charge & RUN main LEDs
RUN main LED's (only)
RUN main LEDs (or fixed lighting) ONLY, no dyno.
From the bflex output:
I can run a tail light or another front light (set to strobe maybe) or just as a standlite, as its controlled by the bflex you can do as you wish...run a camp light.
once I get USB power output you can even charge your GPS / ipod...
I can have the caps output track the voltage level (full out), so if I have just come off a fast down hill, the caps will be charged & I get the same brightness as if I was going fast, for a few more minutes... when slowing down for a turn then hammering off down the hill again, you don't want the, dyno powered light to dim into the corner.
The cap will then drain to follow the current Vf of the LEDs. If you are going fast again, then you are always running @ full brighness. For this system is 12.4w (Max).... so thats near 720lm!! Yep brighter than most HID's...anyway chuck this on your MTB & you can ride all night!!!
OR have it in Capbattery LOW, this gives a minimum standby power from many hours. So if I go slow or stop, the light will still be lit...at the minimum set brightness.
The dyno-batt is made to run the main LED light up to 12.4w, the 'Dyno-minT'.
BUT was really made for 'the BIG tour'...
MK2 will have USB power output + A solar panel & handcrank input.... so you can charge your 'ipods, PDA, GPS, batterys & phones...on the move or @ the camp...+ I will wire the bflex voltage STAT LED to tell me when the caps are full...(for extra brownie points)
The dynamo can be run in the rear hub, of the BOB style trailer... as its a 16" wh, the hub get more power @ lower speed... perfect for that 'forever-lasting' power, on your next big world trip!!!
Well I just added a switched, bflex regulated output, so bottom right switch is now a mom ON for the bflex...driven from the caps & a sep output for the 1 LED camping light...this is so I can use the caps volts down to around 3v + driver. (hey it was lying around)
The output has a switched action, so remove the plug & you cut the power to the bflex... this is to stop the bflex starting up when the LED is NOT connected... not a good thing for this driver...
I have found some thin flexible solar panels about 8v worth (4 strips).. i will attached these to the outside of the box to keep the caps topped up. Mainly for camping as a good ride will fill them up quite quickly.
I have got a 12v handcrank ready to go...
I have a spare dynamo hub for the rear of the BOB...err I have no time to go anywhere as I am too busy making new toys to go on my world trip..
Dyno-batt Mk2:
(left side pic input / output)
Bflex regulated output driving a front MXDL SSC P4 (UIB strobe mode)
LED low capbatt warning
Solar / charger/ 12v car, input for the capbattery charging
:thumbsup:
K
all good FUN... what ever gets me out on my bike I say!!
www.ktronik.com/LED.html
www.cncdelite.com
0
Comments
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You lost me with the tech stuff, but a battery to keep the charge you get from your dyno, and power yr lights and charge your iPod/GPS/etc with the option of solar and/or hand crank - man, I think yr on a winner there!Commute - MASI Souville3 | Road/CX - MASI Speciale CX | Family - 80s ugly | Utility - Cargobike0
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You on the right track buddy... Hey I was a courier living in fitsroy / collinwood... for a few years... hows the rain??
But is a CAPbattery... made of super caps...
I can charge them fully in 2 mins, I have 1000,000 charge cycles, can be drained right down to nill (10v- 2.54v) in this case, if given the right voltage won't over charge & nearly loss less...way better than a battery, that will dissapate charge over time & start to die after 500-1000 cycles. I won't be using battery's again till they bring out the sugar battery...
I can route the power straight to the main LEDs 720lm (MAX), or rob a bit to charge the CAPbattery, which drives a front flasher / rear flasher / campling light.
I can have the CAPbattery help the main light... so it won't dim when slowing....
Look its really some thing that I needed... but could not buy...so I made it...
we are also on the verge of changing the main drive circuit for a auto switching FET unit (more efficient, rides the sweet spot of the hub for longer)
Yes if I put a USB plug on it I can charge USB stuff, while rideing or in camp with a 12v handcrank geny... small... or go for a quick ride around the camp ground to charge it up again...
the bflex (digitally controlled constant current SMT LED driver) standlite will last for over 1hr without charge.
Hey I am on hols... & should have been doing the dishes or something...I guess now I have to do them...
best
Ktronik0 -
Great project! Nice and professional looking too, which is always a big bonus for home builds.
A bit more complicated than my setup (just a 3W Lux on the front, 15x red LEDs rear, bridge rectifier from the dynamo hub etc). Must have taken quite a while to get yours together, but worth it if you want to charge stuff up.0 -
if you want to try some more power from your system I can give you are really simple circuit to hook up...
have a read of this:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=174557
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=172636
best
Ktronik0 -
I've been building these sort of systems for 20+ years and have quite a successful system up and running at the moment.It has 2 battery packs and only tends to fail when some idiot at work thinks it's funny to disconnect the wires.Also has german standlights on the back and powers two moped horns which are quite loud.
Also should the lights fail for any reason I can fit backup in a number of seconds although this hasn't happened.
http://i15.tinypic.com/6750k9f.jpg0
