removing back wheel without removing chain

The Big Cheese
The Big Cheese Posts: 8,650
edited August 2007 in MTB workshop & tech
Am I right in thinking that you should have the chain on smallest cog on back before disengaging the wheel ? Always works for me but my mate just phoned (as he has a flat tyre/also new to biking) and says its too fiddly and it's not working so god knows what he's doing :lol: - theres no easier way is there?

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    nope. what is his bike and set up?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Gary Fisher Tassajara - think hes got a deore/LX setup...
  • Panic over - he's done it (on the phone to me now) - he hadn't properly loosened the QR - doughnut! :lol:
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    should be normal enough.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • anto164
    anto164 Posts: 3,500
    When i have a puncture, i leave my wheel on. take one side of the tyre off the rim, then pull the inner out. this is only as i have had to tighten my rear QR lots to stop it slipping in the dropouts.
  • but how do you remove the inner/replace etc if your wheel is still in the frame??? :?

    Some king of dark arts/voodoo? :lol:
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    use a patch.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • P66
    P66 Posts: 132
    I think he just uses glue and patches, you don't have to completley remove it to do that.

    I can hear bats.
  • oh I see keerr-chink (sound of the penny dropping!)

    You'll have to excuse me - premature stoodiness...... :oops:
  • It's wrong I know, but I have never repaired an inner tube - always have 2 spare tubes in my daysac and just replace the whole thing - quicker too
  • anto164
    anto164 Posts: 3,500
    But replacing the tube means you have to carry one with you. Its cheaper in the long run if you patch the tube up. i don't really understand why you need to change the tube every puncture. A pack of park self adhesive patches and its easy. I only have a camelbak lobo, so i dont REALLY have the space to take full tubes with me.
  • I know, it's lazy and wasteful of me :cry:

    It's maybe a practice that I should adopt - I just remember being a kid and not being able to find the puncture without a bowl of soapy water :lol:
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    best way is to run the inflated tube under your nose - very sensitive, you'll feel the air! My Michelin tube has 7 patches on it lol.
  • anto164
    anto164 Posts: 3,500
    supersonic wrote:
    best way is to run the inflated tube under your nose - very sensitive, you'll feel the air! My Michelin tube has 7 patches on it lol.

    its also very easy to find it on your lips.. run the tube past your lips.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,665
    Mouth lips or the lower lips :D
  • dav1
    dav1 Posts: 1,298
    I just undo the QR, give the rear mech a little push back and the rear wheel comes out in seconds no problem.

    As far as realigning it goes i always find turning it over when the wheel is re-secured loosely the fully tightening it with the weight of the bike putting it firmly in the dropouts makes things nice and painless.
    Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
    Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
    Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
    Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)

    Carrera virtuoso - RIP