Swapping wheels round

jcook1
jcook1 Posts: 28
edited August 2007 in MTB workshop & tech
I'm wanting to change my front tyre with my rear tyre (due to different wear).
Do I have to take the tyres off both wheels and put them back on the other wheel or is there an easy way of removing the cog off the back wheel and swapping wheels round without removing the tyres?

Cheers!

Comments

  • bryanm
    bryanm Posts: 218
    jcook1 wrote:
    I'm wanting to change my front tyre with my rear tyre (due to different wear).
    Do I have to take the tyres off both wheels and put them back on the other wheel or is there an easy way of removing the cog off the back wheel and swapping wheels round without removing the tyres?

    Cheers!

    It's quite straightforward. First off you'll need to deflate the innertubes on both wheels, then push the tyre to one side to enable you to undo all the spokes. Then you can swap the rims, complete with innertube and tyre attached to the opposite wheel, reattach the spokes to the rim and re-inflate the tyres.
    Simple workshop task I reckon.... :roll:
  • isn't it easier to take the tyres off, 'cos you've got to retension and re-true the wheels if you swap the rims...
  • royboy11
    royboy11 Posts: 71
    That's an interesting technique...
    Norco Sasquatch '07 - Parts?.. break'em and replace'em
  • fozzybear
    fozzybear Posts: 17,082
    Don't FEED the troll. ;)
  • mtb.boy
    mtb.boy Posts: 208
    jcook1 wrote:
    I'm wanting to change my front tyre with my rear tyre (due to different wear).
    Do I have to take the tyres off both wheels and put them back on the other wheel or is there an easy way of removing the cog off the back wheel and swapping wheels round without removing the tyres?

    Cheers!


    Just take the 'cog' off the rear wheel and use "sticky backed plastic" to secure it to the front one. Then put this in the rear wheel slots. Remember to take the QR skewer from your rear wheel to secure it in place.
    Then take the rear wheel and put it in the front forks - However - you will first have to bend the forks out by 35mm to fit the rear wheel in there. Then use another rear sized QR skewer to secure this in place. (So you will have to buy a rear QR skewer)

    I'm no expert but that seems pretty safe to me.

    Or maybe I am taking the URINE and you should just change your tyres over.
    The first rule of cycling is - Tell everyone how great cycling is.

    The second rule of cycling is - Tell everyone how great cycling is !!!!
  • bryanm
    bryanm Posts: 218
    Actually, thinking about this a little further, I reckon that if you turn the bike into a single speed, you could just swap the wheels round and drive the chain to the front wheel?
    Turning corners may cause a few problems - you might have sort of bunny hop round them.
  • buddha
    buddha Posts: 1,088
    The simplest solution:
    Take of the saddle, rotate the bike 180 degrees and re-fit the saddle.
    Your front tyre is now your rear and vice-versa.
    Sorted mate. Initt :)
    <center><font size="1"><font color="navy">Lardy</font id="navy"><font color="blue"> | </font id="blue"><font color="navy">Madame de Pompadour</font id="navy"></font id="size1"></center>
  • bryanm
    bryanm Posts: 218
    buddha wrote:
    The simplest solution:
    Take of the saddle, rotate the bike 180 degrees and re-fit the saddle.
    Your front tyre is now your rear and vice-versa.
    Sorted mate. Initt :)

    Surely this would only work if it's a fixie?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Did this a few times when I worked at Halfords - all you need is a soldering iron. Carefully cut all the spokes halfway up, thn reomove rim and tyre as a unit. This way the spoke nipples are still in place. Swap over, solder the spokes togeher, and when dry, retension. Bostic works too.
  • dcp1975
    dcp1975 Posts: 739
    Does it make a difference if you cut the spokes 3/4 up? Mine are not soldering together properly...im also using loctite?? :?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    It can do, depends where the butting is. Good old duct tape works too.
  • dcp1975
    dcp1975 Posts: 739
    I knew i could rely on you Sonic.....ive got Black Duct tape but i find that it comes off during a ride and i need to keep getting off the bike and re-applying it....you know what its like?? :wink:
  • bryanm
    bryanm Posts: 218
    I can't see how the above 2 would work. Isn't the dishing of the wheels different between front and rear, resulting in different length spokes?

    I can't believe I'm still reading this thread.... :shock:
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Oh, thats the least of your worries....
  • dcp1975
    dcp1975 Posts: 739
    Thanks for that.....got a great soldering kit off Ebay £6.89....bargain! Just hope the spokes hold together im off for a ride in half an hour! :lol:
  • royboy11
    royboy11 Posts: 71
    ... might i suggest an additional layer of duck tape then!
    Norco Sasquatch '07 - Parts?.. break'em and replace'em
  • dcp1975
    dcp1975 Posts: 739
    Ive got 8 on now.....just dont want the front wheel to collapse on me...best to be safe than sorry eh? :?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    The most adhesive product in the universe is... weetabix. You know, leave it in the bowl to dry and you need a air hammer to remove it. Good for spokes too, and a combination of it and skimmed milk (full fat goes a bit funny) keeps my bpttom bracket in.
  • dcp1975
    dcp1975 Posts: 739
    I cant believe its not oati-bix can you? I always got told a bit of Cravendale mixed in til a thick slush works wonders? Is this a Myth?? :cry:
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Going on my constipation, I would say its not a myth.
  • dcp1975
    dcp1975 Posts: 739
    Nice....im off for my ride...if i dont reply you'll know that ive gone right over the top and impaled myself on the spokes! just hope it does work this time :wink:
  • mtb.boy
    mtb.boy Posts: 208
    bryanm wrote:
    buddha wrote:
    The simplest solution:
    Take of the saddle, rotate the bike 180 degrees and re-fit the saddle.
    Your front tyre is now your rear and vice-versa.
    Sorted mate. Initt :)

    Surely this would only work if it's a fixie?

    Just open up the freehub and squirt superglue (or weetabix) in there and it will become a fixie.
    The first rule of cycling is - Tell everyone how great cycling is.

    The second rule of cycling is - Tell everyone how great cycling is !!!!
  • dcp1975
    dcp1975 Posts: 739
    Ive been out on my ride and the duct tape worked! Fantastic....i ordered 64 new spokes from Wiggle but ive cancelled that order now....Duct Tape Rules!!! :wink:
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    bryanm wrote:
    I can't see how the above 2 would work. Isn't the dishing of the wheels different between front and rear, resulting in different length spokes?

    You're not thinking laterally enough. Simply cut both front and back spokes at the same distance from the rim and the difference in the remains of spokes at the hubs will account for the dishing.
  • steelo
    steelo Posts: 542
    Try this on for size, instead of messing about with the wheels/tyres etc. Remove the seat post and put on the ground. Next, remove handlebars and stem and then using a piece of tubing and duck tape secure firmly in place in the seat tube. Pick up the saddle/seat post assembly and using some cable ties and more duck tape secure to the headset.

    If its all secure enough then surely when riding the bike, the front wheel is now at the back and the rear wheel is now at the front.

    How do you like them apples?
    Specialized Rockhopper '07
    Trek Fuel EX8 '09
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,738
    Does anyone else have the horrible image of the OP painstakingly resoldering all his spokes?!

    or the look on the LBS workers face as he brings it in saying he s got a problem...be worse than as baggy top in Condor cycles!!! :?
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver