Changing pads on Juicy 5's

hewison
hewison Posts: 49
edited September 2007 in MTB workshop & tech
I've just tried to change the pads on my avid juicy 5's and can't seem to get the pistons back into their bores on the front or the back brake.

In the avid manual it says just to press them back in with a screwdriver but i've tried this with the old pads in and, very carefully, with no pads in and nothing seems to happen. After a lot of persistance I managed to get both front and back pads inplace but now neither of my wheels will turn.

Since this has happened on both front and back brakes it suggests that the problem is down to me and not the brakes. I've searched the forum for any tips but that's left me a bit confused.

Any help would be appreciated. Cheers

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Keep trying without the pads in. A tyyre lever can be a better tool. They can take some persuasion.
  • hewison
    hewison Posts: 49
    Cheers mate, i'll give the tyre lever a try. How much persuasion are we talking though? I was at it for about two hours yesterday and didn't seem to get anywhere.

    Should they move in gradually or do they just click back in?
  • happysv
    happysv Posts: 31
    There is a 2mm allen screw on the lever that you need to screw out until the head of it is flush with the hole.
    Its the same screw to adjust lever travel and if screwed in too far it will not allow the fluid back to the reservior.
  • skyliner
    skyliner Posts: 613
    Good Tip happysv. I've often found this to be a problem when bleeding other types of brake.
    Generally though, on Avids if you're replacing the pads for the 1st time, you may need to express a small amount of fluid from the system to allow the pistons to be pushed home.
    This is due to the unique porting in Avid calipers, and the fact that they are pressure bled at the caliper. So when you put new pads in, with more friction material on them, the disc will bind.
    You perform this by placing the old pads in the caliper, taking a large flat blade screwdriver, put it between the pads and twist it. Then, with a T10 torx key release the bleed port screw on the lever. Fluid wil issue from the bleed port, and the pistons will move back into the bores at the same time. Close the bleed port, fit new pads, loosen PM bolts and pull brake lever a few times, then centralise rotor in caliper. Tighten PM bolts, and test brake .
    If you've done it correctly your brake should be working perfectly.
    It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice.
  • hewison
    hewison Posts: 49
    Cheers guys, I had tried adjusting the 2mm allen screw on the levers but still couldn't get the pistons back in. I'll try removing some fluid from the system.
  • timberjack
    timberjack Posts: 279
    changed my pads front and back 3 times and never needed to release any fluid, suppose i've been lucky
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  • hello im new to BikeRadar and a forum virgin i know this topic is a month or so old but felt i had to reply to show my thanks

    i to had the same problem as hewison when i replaced my pads

    one piston on the back brake would not move so i tryed the above two tips

    the 2mm screw was already flush so it was not touched

    so i loosened the torx scerw on the brake lever until a little fluid came out which was quickly wiped away the piston then moved back

    the brake was pulled a few times and the wheel was able to spin around.

    the brake was centralised as mentioned within the forum , the brakes now work better that before

    thanks