Sore neck when riding..

cusimar9

I'm upping my miles by quite a bit recently as I'm preparing for LEJOG. I have a racer and I feel like I've got it setup nicely now except I do suffer from a sore neck/shoulders on long rides.

I've taken the visor off my helmet and my seat is just the right height. What else can I adjust? Can I / Should I adjust the angle of the seat? How can I raise the handlebars?

I do wear a backpack but I don't think the fault lies entirely with that as its very small and light.

penugent

cusimar9 wrote:

I do suffer from a sore neck/shoulders on long rides.

How can I raise the handlebars?

I had a similar problem and my LBS was able to raise my bars enough to deal with the issue by flipping the stem over.

baudman

Being more upright will help - but it also means you're pushing more wind.

You say you're upping your miles, but how long have you been riding, and how often do you ride? The more you ride, the stronger your core stability muscles will become, and you'll find you have less pressure on your hands/shoulders.

cusimar9

Haven't been riding long at all, I'm a complete beginner. But these shoulder troubles can't be normal. When I get in its the only thing hurting me and I've just cycled 30+ miles of hills.

peejay78

generally a sore neck is a sign that the bike doesn't fit and the reach is slightly too long.

i had this problem when i first started and i was riding a 60cm frame. i now ride a 58 and a 57, geared and fixed respectively, and i have no such troubles.

McBain_v1

Try one of the many online sizing programmes and see what sort of measurements are generated, then compare these to the bike that you are actually riding, it might help point you in the right direction

cusimar9

I had a good look at the seat and noticed that its adjustable and can be moved back and forth. Should I try and move the seat forward a little? That would shorten the reach, just hope it doesn't adversely affect my pedal action.

peejay78

if it feels long, then yes.

you coould also raise the bars slightly, this doesn't look too nice but can work.

cusimar9

How do you raise the bars? :oops:

domtyler

I think a lot of beginners get these types of problems. As has been mentioned, once you start to get a bit fitter and stronger and more used to the positioning on a road bike they will take care of themselves.
________
GM FOODS

peejay78

i meant tilt them upwards, as opposed to raise them. gives you an extra centimetre or so, might be all you need.

maybe they're pointing down already...

Jashin

I'd suggest that this is a common problem if you're not been riding too long. It'll most probably pass when your neck and shoulders have got stronger. That's not to say that a good fit isn't essential as well though.

cusimar9

peejay78 wrote:

i meant tilt them upwards, as opposed to raise them. gives you an extra centimetre or so, might be all you need.
maybe they're pointing down already...

Oh you mean the drop handlebars? I think they're more or less horizontal at the moment. So you're saying to make the handles point upwards slightly? Could try that as well.

gkerr4

cusimar9 wrote:

peejay78 wrote:

i meant tilt them upwards, as opposed to raise them. gives you an extra centimetre or so, might be all you need.
maybe they're pointing down already...

Oh you mean the drop handlebars? I think they're more or less horizontal at the moment. So you're saying to make the handles point upwards slightly? Could try that as well.

if you need a little extra height / shorter reach try fliping the stem over - to get an idea of the difference that will make - have alook at this link:

http://www.feltracing.com/products/defa ... atid=18,19

look at the difference between the 'F' series road-racers and 'Z' series relaxed geometry bikes - the stem is flipped to slightly raise the bars and slightly reduce the reach - might help.

peejay78

yes - tilt them up a bit, it's not ideal but it might help you reach the hoods.

and put the brakes a bit higher, even.

cusimar9

Thanks for the tips, I'll have a look at those

acorn_user

Do you have Ahead forks? (stem clamps onto steerer tube) If you do, your fork will have been cut. The only way to get it higher again is to use a riser stem, or an ahead riser (is that way they are called?).

Nb, you will get stronger at cycling, but it won't help your core muscles much. Some cross training such as swimming or sit ups might help a little. I have the same problem as you (sometimes), and I've been riding a lot for 10 years!

cusimar9

I'm pretty fit and I've been exercising for years, just haven't spent *that* long on a bike yet. That's why I'm thinking its more to do with the fit rather than me just getting used to it.

OnTow

My first racer, years ago, was remarkably uncomfortable - I thought this was the way they all were - then I went to a decent pro-shop, and couldn't believe the difference - even from day one.... No pains at all.
I did recently purchase a second "road razor" from them, which is slightly less comfortable, as I opted for a longer/lower position.

I'd recommend getting down your local pro-shop that has a sizing jig, and trying a multitude of positions - It was a revelation for me - all of a sudden, it just felt incredibly plugged-in and comfy.

Changing your stem for a shorter one can make a big difference - though a stem that is too short for the fork offset, will make the ride feel remarkably whippy and over-sensitive.

Moving the seat forward is fine as a short term "try it and see" measure, however the seat position should not be adjusted to help with reach - it's simply to adjust the position of your knees over the cranks. If too far forward, you could end up with knee trouble - though this can also be caused by your shoes - Google Lemond Wedges / Lewedges for more info on this - or check out the Specialized Body Geometry marketing blurb related to their shoes.

I have a set of "ITM Marathon" bars, which have a notcable backwards sweep on the tops, which allow for a greater range of comfortable positions and allow me to sit up more/further back, if I feel like it.

As you can see, there are lots of variables with bike setup, and one of the best ways to get it sorted is to get down to a good LBS.
If you're in London, I can recommend Condor - though the jig seems to be used for new bike fits only - so call first.
Cyclefit in Macklin Street get very good reviews.
Mosquito or Brixton - can't remember - offer a fitting service that's cheap and been recommended before, in posts.

cusimar9

Just thought for completeness I'd report back my findings.

I flipped the stem over as recommended and its helped massively. Thanks!

peejay78

great news!

basha

Sorry for the late reply, just read your thread.

I had exactly the same problem, so i took me and the bike back to the shop where i bought it, after around 20 mins the guy's sussed the problem. the handle bar stem was too short and flat. they gave me a new stem that was about an inch longer, but it was also reversable, which gives a slightly higher riding position. NECK ans SHOULDERS sorted.

But can anyone tell me why my toes get numb after around 20miles. and i know it's not the bloody shoes.

PLEEEEAAAASE help

Basha

cusimar9

Toes going numb? I get that. I have Specialized road shoes and I have 2 problems. Firstly, because they are clipless pedals you don't use your toes to stabilise yourself like you would when walking normally, so your toes go a bit 'dead' and I find just moving them about every half hour or so fixes that. But the other problem I've noticed is my feet get too COLD, on anything other than a hot summer's day. I already wear fairly thick running socks, so I'm going to try and double up next time I'm out.

peejay78

you're right about feet getting cold - summer's mornings + thin cycling socks especially.