Help installing a star-nut without a star-nut tool

CitizenLee
CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
edited April 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Hello,

I just got some new DJ2s yesterday and was wondering if anyone could give me any tips for installing star-nut without a star-nut tool?

I was thinking about just tapping it in with a socket extension bar and a hammer and to keep it as straight as possible I was going to put a socket on the end just smaller than the inner steerer tube diameter. Would this work?

I cant justify buying the specific tool since once the nut is in I dont plan on changing the forks for a long time.

I might be able to borrow a tool from a mate who works in a LBS but failing that I'll have to try a more ghetto approach.

Cheers,

Lee
Current:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    screw a nut onto a bolt. srew bolt into star nut twist nut down so that it rests on star nut (not locked) smack in with hammer. undo bolt..

    i normally dont bother with the nut but it spreads the load.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Agree. Just go easy once it has started and make sure it goes in straight. It will need quite a lot of force to start, but gentle taps once it's in. Don't go too deep because you won't be able to bring it back out. 10mm from the top should be plenty.

    I have a similar home made tool to what Nicklouse suggested but it includes a washer just big enough to sit inside the steerer tube, held in place with two locked nuts.

    Don't use the top cap bolt because you may bend it or chip the head in the process.

    Marv.
    What tree ? ...........

    Trek 8000 ZR XC hardtail.
  • RIKO
    RIKO Posts: 559
    Don't fit a starfangled nut just get a bolt through adjuster as in the link below easier to fit and remove you can get an amoeba version cheaper too.
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=17766
  • Sod star fangled,either use the gizmo in the link above,or a Hope Head Dr.
    Safer and easier.
    =========================================


    Dot 4 in the eye hurts. Trust me
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Mmm i love it when people sugest other things when some has asked how to fit something.


    the star nut is still the easyest and lightest option out there.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    Thanks for all the suggestions guys, much appreciated.

    I think the method suggested by Nick and Marvin sounds the best so I'll give that a try. I have a few star-nuts so if I mess it up at least I'll have a spare.

    I do like the idea of the bolt through thing but I really want to get the forks fitted tomorrow + I dont really want to add more weight to an already heavy bike!

    Now I just need to get a decent hacksaw to cut the steerer.

    Cheers :)

    Lee
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    make sure you use the correct sized star nut.

    there are alloy and steel versions.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    Ah, the plot thickens.... I didnt know that.

    I have a M:Part Alloy one which I bought with the forks, but whilst looking for some tools the other day I found a FSA star-nut which came with a Pig headset.

    Dirt Jumper 2s have an alloy steerer so is it safe to say the M:Part is the one to use?

    I dunno what the FSA one is though, it came with the headset I bought for my BMX but the Odyssey forks I use have the nut welded in so I didnt need it.

    Cheers
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    i would not worry. just ne being a pedant. but as i am sure you can see the wall thinkness differes between a steel and an alloy steerer. so a star nut for a alloy steerer may in worst case pull out of a steel steerer. and one for a steel steerer could be harder to fit in a alloy steerer....
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    Cool, I understand. I'll see which looks like the best fit and go for that one.

    Thanks again ;)
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    I used one of these Ice Toolz Steerer Cutter's

    16A2.jpg

    Or a regular pipe cutter should do - if its up to 30mm capacity, possible available from a cheap tool shop for £7 to £10.

    They give a much cleaner cut than a hacksaw, and it will be perfectly parallel which is harder to achieve with a saw without the use of a cutting guide.
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    Haha, funny you should mention that as I nipped out at lunch time and bought one of these...

    Rothenberger Tube Cutter 30

    rtc30wc9.jpg

    Got it at cost price too ;)
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    Hey well done! What did you pay?
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    £11 inc VAT instead of £20 odd (I know they're cheaper than £20 online but I dont mind paying extra if I'm buying local).

    A workmates brother works in a plumbing supplies shop hence the discount. We went 1/2s on it too as he will need it shortly when he gets his new forks. It's a good idea for tools that you dont need to use very often... split the cost with a mate.

    To be honest though, I would have happily paid the full price myself just I dont have to use a hacksaw :P
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    a bargain!
  • russ0228
    russ0228 Posts: 228
    if you haven't fitted the star fangled nut yet and you are struggling to do it. just pop into the shop on saturday and i will let you use the tools to fit it properly. just pop in and ask for me and we'll let ya loose on the thing
    internet (in ter net), secret sanctuary of idiots and nutters.
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    Cheers Russ the offer is much appreciated, although as you know I came into the shop before I read it your message!

    Anyway, you bending the star nut in the vice was just the ticket. I took it home and had it installed within about 5 minutes. Bonus!

    So, that's the bike fully built up now except for the 1/2 link chain. I think I'll have to come into the shop to get that done as my cheapo chain tool isnt wide enough to get my old chain off.

    Thanks again ;)

    Lee
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • I did one last week and pushed it in using a sash-clamp.

    Of course this assumes you have a woodworkers sash clamp, but if you do:

    Set the clamp horizontal in a workmate, set the crown of the forks resting against the fixed jaw (a small bit of wood added for padding the metal), with the steerer tube against the shaft, and use the screw jaw (with another small bit of hardwood for padding) to push in the star nut.

    You might need another clamp (any old small vice) on the shaft of the sashclamp to create a guide and help hold the the steerer straight if the pressure tries to push it off sideways. There is a LOT of pressure when the nut begins to bend!

    Grease the tips of the nut before you put it in just to help it go.
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    nicklouse wrote:
    screw a nut onto a bolt. srew bolt into star nut twist nut down so that it rests on star nut (not locked) smack in with hammer. undo bolt..

    i normally dont bother with the nut but it spreads the load.

    I need to do this tonight, getting a tad confused with the instructions (Friday).

    So you screw a nut onto the bolt (the top cap bolt?) - you screw the bolt into the star nut till it reaches the bottom of the star nut, you screw the nut down the bolt so that its sitting on top of the star nut (but not tight?) and then just hit the top of the bolt with a hammer gently?

    does the head of the bolt(allen key bit) not get damaged in any way? How do you ensure it goes in straight?

    Thanks in advance
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Best resurrection ever. Before some members were born.
    So don't use an allen bolt.
    But I use an old V brake pad - screw it in then hit the pad. You can turn it round and tap from a side if it looks like going in skew.

    But you just tap it in, Thor hammer not needed.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    cooldad wrote:
    Best resurrection ever. Before some members were born.
    So don't use an allen bolt.
    But I use an old V brake pad - screw it in then hit the pad. You can turn it round and tap from a side if it looks like going in skew.

    But you just tap it in, Thor hammer not needed.

    Ha didnt realise it was so old.

    I still dont get the nut on the bolt bit... I'll try find a bolt that fits the star nut(and has its own appropiate nut) - opposed to using the allen bolt then.

    Is it just a case of using your eye to ensure it goes in straight then?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Pretty much - the nut just stops the bolt getting hammered into the star nut and farking the threads. I suppose. I've never had a problem my way - a long V brake pad gives you something to hold onto nicely.
    Otherwise it's down to skill and talent.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • minley1
    minley1 Posts: 126
    I usually just put the star nut in the top of the fork, put a thin screwdriver into the star nut so the handle of the screw driver rests on top of the star nut, then hammer the top of the screwdriver until the nut gets to where you want it.
    Has worked fine for me every time.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    I usually take the star nut and throw it in the bin and fit a Hope Head Doc..... Wait a minute....
  • wilberforce
    wilberforce Posts: 315
    minley1 wrote:
    I usually just put the star nut in the top of the fork, put a thin screwdriver into the star nut so the handle of the screw driver rests on top of the star nut, then hammer the top of the screwdriver until the nut gets to where you want it.
    Has worked fine for me every time.

    Works for me too!
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Tried cooldads method, and the screwdriver method. Screwdriver method worked, but I'm sure cooldads v brake would have worked too if i'd been more confident with the initial blows.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I might try that screwdriver method next time anyway.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools