Cassette, chain and chainring replacement - sort of a survey

ThePiglit

How often do you change the above?
My policy is to do so when wear is obvious, and always change the cassette and chain at same time.
However have had a couple of reports of broken chains from colleagues here, albeit with basic MTBs doing the recreational trail thing, but got my paranioa going!
Whats your policy and experience.
Have touring bike with 9speed shimano by the way.
Cheers.

FrankM

Bike shops like you to change both at the same time all the time for obvious reasons.

If I change the cassette (9 speed 11-23 cassette on an MTB) I always change the chain but I don't always change the cassette when I change the chain. Depending on how much I ride, I replace the chain every couple of months.

alfablue

Many people would go for changing 3 chains for one cassette. Chain breakage can happen any time, I have broken a few barely worn chains - I always carry tools for chain repair for any significant rides. Accept that you will break a chain eventually, go equipped, but don't waste money on replacing chains before they are worn.

Sheldon Brown says:

The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler exactly in the middle of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark.
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets:


If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.

If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.

If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.

If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.

pieinthesky

Buy 2 or 3 chains with each cassette and change the chain at regular intervals. If you clean your chain regularly (which is a good idea) swap the chain every time you clean it.

This is very easy if you buy chains with re-useable joining links.

You can carry one of the 'resting' joining links in your repair kit to join your chain in an emergency.

This will not work if you are not prepared to clean and swap chains regularly.
I would suggest every 300 or 400 miles, by which time your chain will need a clean anyway.

spasypaddy

where can you get spare links from as its probably a wise idea to carry them with me when i get a chain tool! ive had one breakage in my time (not on my road bike) and its annoying to say the least!

ThePiglit

Ho hum this is all very interesting. Got back into cycling 3 years ago, rode old trek hyby for first 2 then stumped up for the Thorn which is a year old almost to the day. Formerly rode tourer racer and MTB for between 1987/95 but two things never done
1. Broke chain accidentally
2. Took chain off except to replace it.

Got a post not far away about rim wear and I have an orrible feeling that the quest for improved performance has meant a downturn in durability. 9 spd chain appreciably narrow than 7 spd on trek and old bikes - does than mean weaker.

I fully intend replacing chain (basic shimano) with summat stout - what would you go for?

In the good old days yer Rohloff was it but there is also the Wupperman and the Shimano XT. Not cheap none of em, but an investement that needs to be made. Any opinions or other recommendations?

Thanks