Brake Bleeding??

PLuKE

I thought i would give the brakes a bleed last week, So i went ahead and started done it for about 5-10mins. Went and tightend everything up and pumped the lever and it just went all the way back to the handlebar, It feels as there is no fuild in there, I have kept trying today but just lot my rag at it. It goes pretty firmish and moves about half way and it think ok, Soon as i move the bike and pull the lever it goes back to how it was, nothing there and it goes back the handbar. The brakes are Hayes Solos am using the right fuild and i know how to bleed brakes as i do it all the time as i race motorbikes.

Need some help!.

Luke

nicklouse

just in case you you have not read the Sole manual.

D. Bleeding the System
Air entrapped in the hydraulic system of the disc brakes can decrease performance of the system and should be removed by “bleeding”
the system and replenishing the system with new brake fluid. The system is filled by pumping fluid from the lowest point (at the caliper),
through the system, to the highest point, the bleeder on the master cylinder.
Caution: Use only new DOT 4 or DOT 3 brake fluid from a closed, sealed container.
Use of any other fluid can cause the rubber parts to degrade and cause the brake to fail.
Caution: DOT 4 or DOT 3 brake fluid will strip paint. Use extreme caution to avoid getting DOT 4 or DOT 3 brake fluid on paint. If
DOT 4 or DOT 3 brake fluid comes in contact with paint, wipe it off immediately and rinse with isopropyl alcohol.
Warning: If you get any brake fluid on the brake pads, discard them and replace with new pads. If you get any brake fluid on the
disc, clean it thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol.
Warning: DOT 4 and DOT 3 brake fluid can be an irritant when it comes into contact with human tissue.
For skin contact, brake fluid should be washed off in flowing water. For eye contact, the eye area should be irrigated with flowing
water immediately and continuously for 15 minutes. Consult with medical personnel. If effects occur from inhaling brake fluid
fumes, move to an area with fresh air. Consult a physician. If brake fluid is ingested, induce vomiting and consult medical
personnel. Used brake fluid should be disposed of in accordance with local laws.
Bleed Kit Assembly
1. Screw the cap onto the end of the bottle.
2. Cut a 2" (5cm) section of hose
3. Push the short section of hose over the cap until it slides past the ridge on the cap
4. Push the long section of hose into the master cylinder bleed fitting.
NOTE: There are two fittings with the kit. The silver aluminum fitting is to be used with the “SO1E”.
Bleeding the System
1. Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake pads so that any spilled fluid does not contaminate the pads. (See above instructions for pad removal)
3. Position the bike in a stand so that the brake caliper bleeder screw is perpendicular to the ground, and the reservoir plug on the
master cylinder is the highest point on the brake system. This can be done by loosening the master cylinder clamp screws and
rotating the master cylinder upright on the handlebars.
NOTE: For the “SO1E” the bike should remain horizontal to the ground, and the lever should remain parallel to the ground.
4. Remove the master cylinder reservoir and press the fitting with the hose into the hole. The other end of the hose should go into a
cup or bottle to catch the excess fluid. Be sure not to submerge the end of the hose in fluid. Hint: Taping a spoke to a bottle and
bending it to hook around the handlebars makes a convenient hanger.
NOTE: The “SOLE” master cylinder reservoir plug is an aluminum plug, which needs to be removed with your fingers or a small flat
head screwdriver. DO NOT remove the two T-10 Torx bolts holding the cap on. The “SO1E” requires the use of the silver aluminum
bleed fitting included in the bleed kit.
5. Completely remove the caliper bleeder’s rubber cap.
6. Fill the plastic filler bottle with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid.
7. Close the caliper bleeder.
8. Place the hose from the fluid bottle onto the caliper bleeder. Pump the fluid bottle until there is no air in the hose.
9. Open the caliper bleeder 1/4 turn.
10. Squeeze the fluid bottle firmly – forcing fluid into the caliper for a count of five. Stop squeezing -until the bottle returns to its
natural shape. When the squeeze is released, air should be drawn out of the caliper. Continue alternately squeezing the fluid bottle,
for a count of five, and releasing until no air bubbles come out of the caliper.
11. After all the air is out of the caliper; squeeze the bottle until fluid comes out at master cylinder with no air bubbles.
12. While squeezing the bottle, quickly stroke the lever to the handlebars, and release. Repeat this until no more air bubbles come out
of the master cylinder.
13. With the bottle still being squeezed, close the caliper bleeder. Torque should be only to seal the bleeder. Do Not Over Torque! Then
release and remove the bottle and filler hose.
14. Remove the hose and fitting from the master cylinder and insert the aluminum reservoir plug.
15. Clean the caliper and master cylinder with isopropyl alcohol. Take great care to remove all brake fluid because if the fluid comes
into contact with the disc or brake pads, performance will forever be greatly reduced.
16. Clean the disc with isopropyl alcohol if it is contaminated with oil or brake fluid.
17. Replace the caliper’s rubber bleeder cap, the brake pads, and the wheel/disc assembly.
18. Center the caliper over the disc.
19. Check all hose connection for leakage. Tighten if any are found.

down loadable from http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/SO1E4 ... nglish.pdf

hayes blrrd from the oposite end to many others.

PLuKE

Arhh!!. Thanks!. Its not the same way are normal bleeding.

Luke

nicklouse

it is normal for many Cycle disc brakes.

as i always say read the manual.

PLuKE

Ok tryed it today. As per the manual. And it still the same, Lever gets better moves about 1/2 way and then after a few pumps while pushing the bike and the lever gets worse and the goes to the handlebar. Nothing i can think of thats wrong with it as it was fine before i thought about bleeding it!. BTW its the rear brake.

Luke

nicklouse

if it was fine why did you think of bleeding it?

as you know the the sole is a single piston caliper is it set so the disc is not being moved too much.

try resetting the caliper.

if all that does not work does the lever pump up? yes. keep bleeding.

PLuKE

Ye the caliper is set ok. I might give it ago again tomorrow. I know i wish i left it, I thought i would give it a fresh bit of fuild and make saw no air is in there (i bought the bike 2nd). Plenty of air bubbles was coming out the tub, But no the lever didnt get firmer, Just easy push it back to the handlebar with my little finger. But after a while of bleeding the lever does get harder and doesnt move as much, But after 5-7 pumps of it, It soon goes back to being soft and travels to the handlebar again.

Luke

nicklouse

sounds like it is not worth spending the money on them if you cant bleed them right. i would look at some new.