how to fix headset clicking?
dunker
Posts: 1,503
i recently noticed a ticking-clicking noise coming from my headset i think, i adjusted it according to park-tools book which made it a little bit better but then came back so i've since tightened it two 1/8 turns and it's definetly getting better now but is tightening it anymore safe to do? it's a cane-creek c2 or c3 i think so pretty low-end i guess. standing on the pedals no clicking but in the seat clicking develops longer i'm in the seat with hardly any pressure on the bars/stem.
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if you have done as you say then it is new heaset time."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
are you using the free mbuk topcap that was given out afew months ago?
if so, thats the problem, i had it on my bighit and the headset came loose every 5minutes, (theyre made of hard rubber, and flex) then i put the orignal back on and it fixed up
hope this helps and saves some money.0 -
thingummijigger wrote:are you using the free mbuk topcap that was given out afew months ago?
if so, thats the problem, i had it on my bighit and the headset came loose every 5minutes, (theyre made of hard rubber, and flex) then i put the orignal back on and it fixed up
hope this helps and saves some money.
if you were having that problem it is more likely you were not tightening your stem correctly. once you have tightened your stem bolts you can remove the top cap as it no longer has a use. the top cap is only there to allow you to preload the bearings."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
yeah, but the flex in the crappy topcap meant the bearings couldnt preload correctly.
once i got the metal one back in, it was fine, and i can now do what you said.0 -
nah i'm using the original, my bikes only done about 300miles from new do they get knackered that quickly then?
how about taking off the stem cap and packing the insides with grease would that help?0 -
dunker wrote:nah i'm using the original, my bikes only done about 300miles from new do they get knackered that quickly then?
how about taking off the stem cap and packing the insides with grease would that help?
follow the service info on parktools. if it is worn out then it will need replacing.
300 miles in how long? if the bike is still new take it back to the shop and get them to sort it."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
thingummijigger wrote:yeah, but the flex in the crappy topcap meant the bearings couldnt preload correctly.
once i got the metal one back in, it was fine, and i can now do what you said.
more likely it was bottoming out on the top of the steerer. it does actually work fine."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
could have been, but its a direct mount to 888 so i cant raise it :?
but anyways, its fine now.0 -
had the bike about 4 months. i now think it might be the seatpost because it only clicks when i'm sitting on it. when i put the bracket for my rear light on it i took most of the grease of it, bad idea? anyway i'll have a fiddle with it another day my bum needs a rest, that just does'nt sound right does it heh0
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If it isn't your headset, and you think it's seatpost, try cleaning the rails of your saddle and the clamp at the same time as greasing the seatpost. When you rebuild, don't grease the clamp and rails.0
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woohooo no more clicks! i'm not sure what fixed it, this morning i took off the stem and spacers and gave everything there a good clean then put it back on. gave the seat post and rails a good clean then applied lots of finish-line teflon grease to the seatpost, put it back in and it was all oozing out hehe. just been out for a 2 hour ride and no clicks yay. thanks for all the tips everyone!0