Front/Rear brakes

Tariq

I can adjust the front brakes on my bike to engage sharply and crisply, a slight tug on the lever and they produce the required stopping force. However, I cannot adjust the rear brakes likewise, I cannot adjust the lever so that a slight tug will apply max force, I have to pull the lever much further in. The brake pads, cables and levers are all in good condition. is it the rear wheel or are the brakes meant to work slightly differently?


Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks

rustychisel

chances are you have it adjusted correctly, and what you are feeling is the disparity between braking forces on a road bike.

The front brake will (and is meant to) provide 60-70% of your stopping power, same as with a motorbike. It should be used the majority of the time, except when leaning over deep into a corner, or going over slippery surfaces (metal drain covers, wet leaves etc) because if the front wheel slips you have little or no chance of keeping the bike upright.

The back brake should be used for gentle slowing down, or in conjunction with the front brake to provide maximum stopping power. It's much easier to lock up the back wheel and skid the bike, which is not an efficient way to stop, not to maintain control of the bike. The reason is to do with weight distribution; the harder you brake the less weight is applied to the rear wheel, the less stopping power it has. Ultimately you're trying to apply both brakes to the point just before locking up the wheels, and that is usually (depends on the bike) is just before the front wheel causes the back of the bike to flip 'up' raising the back wheel completely off the road.
If you're too violent with the front brake you'll flip the bike and do a faceplant (painful); too violent with the back will lock up the back wheel and you'll skid (inefficient, and costly) or lose control of the bike (painful).
In practise, learn to brake before corners and obstacles, rather than going into them, and use the back brake as a 'drag' device - like an anchor - and the front brake as the primary stopping device. You'll also learn to use your body weight to maximise the effects; for instance, moving back on the saddle to retard the weight distribution which would otherwise have the front wheel locking up under heavy braking.
Getting good at feeling your bike and knowing what it can and will do is vitally important.

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I'm only escaping to here because the office is having a conniption

pieinthesky

The cable to your back brake is much longer and will stretch more.

pw1brown

Are the rear brake pads set close enough to the rims? If not, braking will be slacker. Front and rear should be the same.

rustychisel

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pw1brown</i>
Front and rear should be the same.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

By and large, untrue.

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I'm only escaping to here because the office is having a conniption

JWSurrey

I think pw1brown is referring to the gap between block and rim should be equally, as small as you can get away with, front and back.
I have a Park Tools 3rd hand brake adjuster for doing this.

Depends on rim wearl; you may find the rear wheel's braking surface is smoother / more worn.

You could try some Swissstop blocks (or Koolstop blocks) on the rear, as these are pretty good.

john dixon

If your brakes are cantilevers, as opposed to V's or side pull, then the way the straddle wire is set up can make a big difference to the feel of the brakes.

A long straddle wire ( /\ ) gives a softer feel, a short one ( -- ) is much harder.

Happy cycling, John

Tariq

Thanks for the comments everyone.

The rear pads sit close to the rim, as close as I can get them without contact. I am inclined to agree with Rustychisel about rear brakes causing skids and so should not engage as forecefully as the front brakes, it makes sense from a mechanical point.

I wish it would stop raining now, I'm itching for a ride.

philip99a

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by rustychisel</i>

chances are you have it adjusted correctly, and what you are feeling is the disparity between braking forces on a road bike.

The front brake will (and is meant to) provide 60-70% of your stopping power, same as with a motorbike. It should be used the majority of the time, except when leaning over deep into a corner, or going over slippery surfaces (metal drain covers, wet leaves etc) because if the front wheel slips you have little or no chance of keeping the bike upright.

The back brake should be used for gentle slowing down, or in conjunction with the front brake to provide maximum stopping power. It's much easier to lock up the back wheel and skid the bike, which is not an efficient way to stop, not to maintain control of the bike. The reason is to do with weight distribution; the harder you brake the less weight is applied to the rear wheel, the less stopping power it has. Ultimately you're trying to apply both brakes to the point just before locking up the wheels, and that is usually (depends on the bike) is just before the front wheel causes the back of the bike to flip 'up' raising the back wheel completely off the road.
If you're too violent with the front brake you'll flip the bike and do a faceplant (painful); too violent with the back will lock up the back wheel and you'll skid (inefficient, and costly) or lose control of the bike (painful).
In practise, learn to brake before corners and obstacles, rather than going into them, and use the back brake as a 'drag' device - like an anchor - and the front brake as the primary stopping device. You'll also learn to use your body weight to maximise the effects; for instance, moving back on the saddle to retard the weight distribution which would otherwise have the front wheel locking up under heavy braking.
Getting good at feeling your bike and knowing what it can and will do is vitally important.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I'm only escaping to here because the office is having a conniption
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


Wow rustychisel. I've cycled for 50 yrs or so and I've never known any of this stuff. Thanks!




Campag Super Nova; faster than a cannon ball

peterbr

It's cable. More friction, more stretch and not as directly routed. This is normal and affects the feel in the way you notice.

What is said about traction is true but would only make a difference if the rear locked.

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