Re Wheel Building, Rim and Tyre Sizes, and Hubs
Am hoping to have a go at building my own wheels and I have a few queries, hope someone can enlighten me.......
1. Is there a 'rule of thumb' for what range of tyre sizes - i.e. tyre widths - safely fit on a particular width of rim ? I don't want to choose the 'wrong' size rims.
2. When fitting spokes to a hub, is it necessary, or only desirable, to 'punch' the spoke heads to ensure a snug fit? What tool should you use - is there a spoke punch tool, or do you use a standard engineering punch with a head of suitable diameter. At what stage of the build do you 'punch'?
3. Re hubs, I'm tempted to future-proof the build by using disc compatible hubs, but for the moment continue to use cantilever brakes on my bike, thus leaving the disc mounting redundant for now but leaving the way open for an upgrade later. I presume this is possible, or must you only use disc brakes with disc hubs?
4. Some (non disc compatible) hubs are described as V-brake specific. Do they simply mean the hub is not disc compatible, but is ok for V-brakes and cantilevers, or is the hub really only good for use solely with V- brakes. If so, I'm puzzled !
Thanks in advance for any help dispelling my ignorance.................
1. Is there a 'rule of thumb' for what range of tyre sizes - i.e. tyre widths - safely fit on a particular width of rim ? I don't want to choose the 'wrong' size rims.
2. When fitting spokes to a hub, is it necessary, or only desirable, to 'punch' the spoke heads to ensure a snug fit? What tool should you use - is there a spoke punch tool, or do you use a standard engineering punch with a head of suitable diameter. At what stage of the build do you 'punch'?
3. Re hubs, I'm tempted to future-proof the build by using disc compatible hubs, but for the moment continue to use cantilever brakes on my bike, thus leaving the disc mounting redundant for now but leaving the way open for an upgrade later. I presume this is possible, or must you only use disc brakes with disc hubs?
4. Some (non disc compatible) hubs are described as V-brake specific. Do they simply mean the hub is not disc compatible, but is ok for V-brakes and cantilevers, or is the hub really only good for use solely with V- brakes. If so, I'm puzzled !
Thanks in advance for any help dispelling my ignorance.................
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Comments
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1-depends on what tyres you want to use, on what rims you can use. What size tyres you planning on using?
2-Rims come pre-drilled so there is no need for a 'punch'
3-its fine to use a disc hub and use a V-rim, and only use one or the other.
4-Hubs are not V specific, its the rims. So the rims are v compatible or not. Hubs are disc compatible or not. so you need a rim that is V-compatible and ahub that is Dsic compatible. only real concern could be the length of the hub. 'most' disc hubs are 135mm long so this could eb a concern if you are planning on putting these wheels on frame with 130 spacing.
Mleh Mleh Mleh0 -
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Steve Austin</i>
1-depends on what tyres you want to use, on what rims you can use. What size tyres you planning on using?
2-Rims come pre-drilled so there is no need for a 'punch'
3-its fine to use a disc hub and use a V-rim, and only use one or the other.
4-Hubs are not V specific, its the rims. So the rims are v compatible or not. Hubs are disc compatible or not. So you need a rim that is V-compatible and a hub that is Dsic compatible. only real concern could be the length of the hub. 'most' disc hubs are 135mm long so this could be a concern if you are planning on putting these wheels on a frame with 130 spacing.
Mleh Mleh Mleh
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Mleh Mleh Mleh0 -
Save the time and the stress go into a bike store and leave with a pair off the shelf. If you spend your money wisely they will be stronger and lighter than anything hand built. Pro Downhillers are now using Off the Shelf wheels so they are well strong enough for us.Racing is life - everything else is just waiting0
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Everything you could ever want know about wheels , courtesy of Sheldon B.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire_sizing.html
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Thanks for your reply Steve. Re
1. MTB wheels, so 26", I think this is 559 size? I guess tyres would range from 26x1.25 to 26x1.75, or about 35-559 to 44-559.
2. Re punching the spoke head, I understand it's done at the hub, not the rim.
Thanks for confirming what I thought must be the case re items 3 and 4.0 -
Not sure what 'punching' is, unless you mean boxing and i ain't been in the ring for years now [;)]
mavic 717 would me my choice for rim, DT double butted spokes. And any hubs you like.
Hope are nice hubs. Shimano are all good, from deore, lx xt to xtr. make sure you don't buy centrelock shimano hubs, if you want standard 6 bolt hubs.
Mleh Mleh Mleh0 -
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Icicle19</i>
2. Re punching the spoke head, I understand it's done at the hub, not the rim.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Do you mean punching to seat the spoke heads in the hub? DT used to do a spoke head punch which had a concave point which fitted against the head.
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Spoke head punch is for seating the heads on the hub - good quality hubs have a machined chamfer so don't really need to be done. For radial wheels, I use a rubber mallet to seat the spoke heads.0
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Yes, seating the head of the spoke in the hole in the hub is what I was on about, just didn't have the right words. Thanks for all the replies.0
