Brooks saddle?

Unknown
edited August 2012 in Road general
need a saddle for my carlton road bike, trying to keep it looking fairly origional (other than the metalic orange paint - so by origional i mean period)

should i put a Brooks saddle on it?

what are the good and bad points of it?

this bike is going to be used for commuting so may end up outside in rain / ridden in rain but will have mudguards.

Comments

  • Greenbank
    Greenbank Posts: 731
    Do you get on with Brooks saddles? Some people don't.

    As long as you Proofide it regularly (and properly) then there isn't a problem with getting it wet.

    The main job of Proofide is not to form a waterproof layer, but to replace the natural oils in the leather that get leeched out when the saddle gets wet.

    If you don't replace these oils (by Proofiding every so often) the leather dries up and cracks.

    My Brooks Swallow regularly gets a soaking but it's in fine form since I look after it with the Proofide.

    [ EDIT - AND NOT REPLY TO THIS TIME! ] See it here:-
    http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2007/fe ... enbank.htm
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  • i dont know if i get on with them, i've never had one
  • Greenbank
    Greenbank Posts: 731
    That could be a bad point then.

    Some poeple say they need a few hundred km to get the saddle broken in and comfy.

    Some people just have a Brooks shaped arse and get on with them from day one.

    Some people never get on with them, even when they've tried to break them in for 1000km.

    Give it a whirl. A B17 is only about œ35 and, more than likely, you'll love it.

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  • Ste_S
    Ste_S Posts: 1,173
    I put a B17 on my probably more recent Carlton

    http://velospace.org/node/3482

    Comfy from the off for me, but then I've been trying to limit my daily mileage on it until it's been broken in.
  • yeh, my carlton was apparently made just before Raleigh took over.

    looks to be what i'm after tbh
  • stevechcp
    stevechcp Posts: 568
    I know this advice will be controversial, but I offer it nevertheless because it might turn out to be right for you.

    When I was young (a long time ago) I could ride on a new Brooks saddle without even being aware that it was challenging. But recently I bought a brand new Brooks B17 and found it unrideable: it might just as well have been made of wood. On the other hand, I have a second-hand B17 bought at a bike jumble for a fiver that I find quite comfortable. Someone else has turned it from hardwood to leather.

    Others will say that never works, because the saddle adapts itself to the bum of the person who breaks it in.

    No one is right: it's horses for courses. But a decent second-hand Brooks will cost you a lot less than a new one, though I don't for a moment recommnend getting some dry, cracked old thing whose life is over. If you can find a well cared-for used one, it might make sense to give it a try.

    I very recently bought a Terry Liberator, a saddle some have praised very highly, and I haven't taken to it at all. Too short, for a start.
  • brooks with ti rails IIRC, im not sure why require a much shorter "breaking in period"
  • urbanfatboy
    urbanfatboy Posts: 193
    What period are the Selle San Marco from? They're pretty comfy and a bit classy.
  • I have a couple of swifts and a cheaper team pro, the swift leather is definitel much softer and more give from new than the team pro. not sure if the leather is thinner on the swift (maybe to keep weight down) but from experience the pro will outlast the swift
  • Blonde
    Blonde Posts: 3,188
    If you want a traditional leather saddle that is not as hard as a Brooks and has a cut out slot you could get one of these:

    http://www.mcmwin.com/

    They are expensive but worth it IMO. I have three, one on each bike and they are the best saddles I have ever ridden - better than Brooks for my shape and less hard. They are a 'flatter', slimmer and much more lightweight saddle than a Brooks B17. They are also water proof (unlike a Brooks) unless you buy the specific 'traditional' one, and so require no specal treatment. The 'standard' option is for riders weighing up to 85 kg and the 'Clysdale' is for those weighing more than that. They come in three widths and three slot shapes. The largest saddle is slightly narrower than a B17. I have never been charged duty on shipping these over from the US.

    Do not even take a peek at the 'ostrich leather leg hide' saddles unless you have a lot of money! They are <i>too</i> nice!

    BTW, If you would like a 'used' Brooks B17 (black) with or without cut out slot - one has been altered by the company above, I have one of each for sale. Email me if interested
  • rrsodl
    rrsodl Posts: 486
    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Blonde</i>

    If you want a traditional leather saddle that is not as hard as a Brooks and has a cut out slot you could get one of these:

    http://www.mcmwin.com/

    They are expensive but worth it IMO. I have three, one on each bike and they are the best saddles I have ever ridden - better than Brooks for my shape and less hard. They are a 'flatter', slimmer and much more lightweight saddle than a Brooks B17. They are also water proof (unlike a Brooks) unless you buy the specific 'traditional' one, and so require no specal treatment. The 'standard' option is for riders weighing up to 85 kg and the 'Clysdale' is for those weighing more than that. They come in three widths and three slot shapes. The largest saddle is slightly narrower than a B17. I have never been charged duty on shipping these over from the US.

    Do not even take a peek at the 'ostrich leather leg hide' saddles unless you have a lot of money! They are <i>too</i> nice!

    BTW, If you would like a 'used' Brooks B17 (black) with or without cut out slot - one has been altered by the company above, I have one of each for sale. Email me if interested
    <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

    Interesting saddle, however, I find hard to believe that they are water proof, in fact that is a lot of rubbish - there is not such thing as a water proof leather. I have been collecting and wearing cowboy boots for 30 years and I own several pairs or shark and stingray boots. One might think they are water proof leathers but they are not. If there was such a thing as a water proof leather then there would be cowboy boots made of it, as it happens there are no cowboy boots made of real leather that is water proof.

    Leather can get soaking wet and as long as you let it dry naturally and condition the leather apropriately afterwards, I see no reason why a saddle can't last its normal life. My boots get soaking wet quite regurlarly and I never have problem with them, as long as I follow the drying and conditioning process properly.

    Ostrich leather is wonderful for boots or shoes, not sure how good it would be for saddles though. If I could get a saddle made of kangaroo leather I would be the first person to buy one - the leather is much stronger than cow leather but a lot more comfortable to wear too.

    Rick
  • bagpusscp
    bagpusscp Posts: 2,907
    Kangaroo saddles ! I bet they have plenty of bounce when riding one .[:)][:D]

    bagpuss
    bagpuss
  • Blonde
    Blonde Posts: 3,188
    I think the 'Watershed' leather is not actually claimed by the company to be 'waterproof' as such. It's just designed to be left alone rather than have substances applied to it, that's all. They do make 'traditional' leather saddles too, that do need to be treated in a similar way to a Brooks, but not the 'Watershed' ones. I am very pleased with mine anyway, though there's nothing wrong with my Brooks B17 saddles after getting wet either - they are both fine too. I just don't get on with the shape of those Brooks ones and need a cut out. Mmm, those ostritch hide ones are lovely. Turquoise is a great colour of a saddle, though it wouldn't go with many bike colour schemes!
  • rrsodl
    rrsodl Posts: 486
    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Blonde</i>

    I think the 'Watershed' leather is not actually claimed by the company to be 'waterproof' as such. It's just designed to be left alone rather than have substances applied to it, that's all. They do make 'traditional' leather saddles too, that do need to be treated in a similar way to a Brooks, but not the 'Watershed' ones. I am very pleased with mine anyway, though there's nothing wrong with my Brooks B17 saddles after getting wet either - they are both fine too. I just don't get on with the shape of those Brooks ones and need a cut out. Mmm, those ostritch hide ones are lovely. Turquoise is a great colour of a saddle, though it wouldn't go with many bike colour schemes!
    <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

    There are two types of ostrich leather, the ostrich leg leather which feels like lizard, easier to crack and has a beautiful look, and full quilt ostrich which is obtained from the prime leather of the ostrich back. The "Quill Marks" distinguish the look and allow large pores for better breathability. it's very nice, comfortable and yet quite durable.

    Kangaroo leather is so strong and lightweight, it also feels nice (Kangaroo leather has the highest tensile strength of any leather, three times the strength of cowhide at the same thickness)- it's not considered an exotic leather so the price is very reasonable. full quilt ostrich leather is much more expensive.

    Rick
  • nashcom
    nashcom Posts: 255
    I've got a pair of Gaerne cycling shoes made from kangaroo leather. I've never noticed any additional bounce...
  • hazeii
    hazeii Posts: 233
    Worth noting the best motorbike racing suits are kangaroo leather - the (professional) people who fall off at speed around 200mph don't use anything else.
  • Thanks for sharing it. I have the same problem with my brooks saddle. When it gets wet, I just dried it with fan, and later on I noticed that it's leather got cracks on it. I will try that on my saddles. Thanks a lot! :)

    ----
    "They can conquer who believe they can."
    PatrickGasper Keen Footwear
  • Manc33
    Manc33 Posts: 2,157
    I just got a Brooks Colt (circa mid 1990's) and it is quite thin (unlike the B17's) and it has been in a loft for 15 years without being touched. So it has endured 15 summers and 15 winters sat there without any Proofide or anything else.

    It used to be my dad's (until he got too ill to ride) and I know he did a few thousand miles on it at the very least.

    I used it yesterday and it wasn't all that uncomfortable. This is after 15 years of drying out and being shaped to someone else's bottom.

    Today I smeared Olive Oil on the underside and top, let it soak in.

    If you don't have mudguards, you will certainly need to clean the saddle and re-do the oiling say at least once a month. If you live in the UK then you're bike saddle will get wet underneath a lot.

    So I just used Olive Oil because I saw a guy say he has used it on his Brooks saddles for 40 years and never had a problem. I guess its possible to go too soft.

    Only did it about an hour ago, lets see. Hope I haven't ruined a £90 saddle! I like how its more of a racing saddle than the B17. It genuinely is comfortable, although at times I do stand up for a few secs, so yeah a slightly sore bum but hell, I am sat on a bike saddle every day and because of that I think its not all that bad.

    Once that Olive Oil sinks in (and possibly after another "treatment") and 500+ miles it should then become super comfortable.

    Looking at it, it is an ingenious design how your bum is only ever sat on one sheet of leather, the saddle has no option but to "fit" you - eventually.