Chain slipping after new chain and cassette

Unknown
Unknown
edited December 1969 in Workshop
After work last night I replaced the cassette and chain as well as a thorough clean and reconditioned the rear hub. I replaced the existing 8 Speed Shimano HG30 cassette and HG50 chain with an HG70 cassette and an SRAM PC58 chain. It was very late by the time I connected the new chain and thinking back I did measure it against the old chain, but didn't take into account chain stretch and the SRAM power-link. So the new chain is at least one link longer.

On the way to work this morning the chain slipped about 5 times under load. Can this be caused by the chain being too long or is it likely to be something else?
If I do shorten the chain I will have to remove two links so that I can connect the power-link properly. Would this then make the chain too short? OR could the old chain have stretched an entire link; it was very knackered?
Thanks

My Best Bike

Comments

  • PeteinSQ
    PeteinSQ Posts: 2,292
    In the event that it isn't because the chain is too long, it could be because the chain rings are worn out.
    <a><img></a>
  • dsoutar
    dsoutar Posts: 1,746
    Yeah, I had this last year and took into Sigma Sport...new chainring did the job beautifully

    "Get a bicycle. You will not regret it if you live." ~ Mark Twain, "Taming the Bicycle"
  • Cyclistm
    Cyclistm Posts: 758
    Did you do any work to the freehub? It maybe that the freehub has lots its grip?

    Unlikely to be because the chain is 1 link too long.
  • hazeii
    hazeii Posts: 233
    What gear is it slipping in? I've occasionally found new chains/cassettes skip a bit at first when on the highest couple of cogs at the back. Also try checking the B tension screw on the derailleur (to make sure the chain is wrapping as much of the rear cassette as possible).
  • Keith Rapley
    Keith Rapley Posts: 150
    Chainring!
  • jhop
    jhop Posts: 369
    A stiff link will also cause this so check your chain thoroughly.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Thanks for the replies.
    I removed a couple of links according to the Sheldon Brown method. Then I tinkered around with the gear adjustments and the changes seem fine now. In fact the gear changes are better than when I first purchased the bike, and after the first service. Either the replacement parts are much better than the originals, or the assembly and servicing were poor.
    I still don't get the B-tension adjuster; when I turned the screw the pulley hardly moved. The pulley isn't that close to the cassette as according to instructions I downloaded.

    My Best Bike
  • romans
    romans Posts: 542
    The B tensioner is for moving the chain into line with the cassette. Did you download the instructions from the Shimano website? Just follow those and do not be timid with the B adjuster as eventually it will settle into the correct position i.e. all the gear changes will be smooth.
    P.S. Is the cable newish enough.

    Romans

    I don't have a TV so I have to travel around on my bike to get the latest news.
    Romans

    I asked the telephone speaking clock lady for a date but she doesn\'t have the time.
  • hazeii
    hazeii Posts: 233
    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by romans</i>

    The B tensioner is for moving the chain into line with the cassette. ...
    <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

    That's maybe a bit misleading, depends on how you view your X and Y's axes I guess.

    I prefer to say it controls how far around the rear cassette the chain is wrapped - more tension (screw further in) = less wrap, less tension (screw further out) = more wrap. General advice is to screw it as far out as possible, subject only to the pulley hitting the rear cassette while back pedalling in the lowest gear (much, much easier with a workstand).
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    It's the chain ring!!
    Last night in heavy traffic a gap closed when a car veered to the centre of the road (for no reason), so I had to stop suddenly in a high gear.
    Starting off again standing on the pedals the chain slipped all over the place. Not fun in heavy traffic.

    It only happens on the largest chain ring. I haven't had time to investigate, but can the chain rings be changed individually on Shimano 8 speed?
    If so, is it advisable to change all 3 or just the worn chain ring? Commuting on flat London roads I use it the most.

    My Best Bike
  • sylvanus
    sylvanus Posts: 1,125
    I'd change all 3 but you can change just the one thats slipping. I'd assume its a 53 tooth but best to take it to the LBS to make sure you get right bolt pattern etc but a Shimano chainring should be straightforward. If you're in Queens Park then Bicycle Workshop or Fudge & Sons should be fine.

    Don't wait too long changing it otherwise you'll be wearing out the new chain and cassette much faster. I'd buy one of these for future use too:

    http://www.parktool.com/products/detail ... tem=CC%2D2

    Will save on cassette and chainring replacement in future!

    ps Where are you in Queens Park? - I'm there too
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    It's my inbred MTB commuter so the chain set is Shimano TX71 28/38/48.
    I was thinking of going to 50T chain ring to get a higher top gear as I did loose some at the top end after changing the tyres to a low profile 1.0". I did gain some top end with my new cassette 11-28 (the old cassette was 12-28), but I want more.
    However it looks like buying chain rings is a bit more complicated and expensive than cassettes and chains so I will probably just get a replacement TX71 chain set for œ20. Unless someone knows a 50T+ chain ring that will fit the TX71, that's cheap. I would prefer to spend money on my road bike.

    Sylvanus, I live on Third Ave.

Categories