Corrosion of stem bolts
Help!
I've been taking meticulus care of my best bike but there's one thing that's really bugging me. How do you prevent the bolts on the stem, bottle cage, racks etc from corroding?
I always wipe my bike down whenever possible after it gets wet but despite this the bolts are corroding and if I may be vain for a minute, quite frankly lowering the tone of the bike.
Has anyone any ideas?
I've been taking meticulus care of my best bike but there's one thing that's really bugging me. How do you prevent the bolts on the stem, bottle cage, racks etc from corroding?
I always wipe my bike down whenever possible after it gets wet but despite this the bolts are corroding and if I may be vain for a minute, quite frankly lowering the tone of the bike.
Has anyone any ideas?
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Comments
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Buy some stainless steel or titanium ones www.stagonset.co.uk0
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Don't replace safety-critical bolts like the handlebar clamp ones on the stem unless you really know what you're doing. Some stainless steel and titanium bolts will not be strong enough for these parts.
Use stainless bolts for the rack, etc. Anodised alumium bolts or screws are OK for bottle cages. Try eBay.
Alternatively, keep your bike in the house! [:)]
<i>~Pete</i><i>~Pete</i>0 -
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pbiggs</i>
<font color="red">Don't replace safety-critical bolts like the handlebar clamp ones on the stem unless you really know what you're doing. Some stainless steel and titanium bolts will not be strong enough for these parts.</font id="red">
Use stainless bolts for the rack, etc. Anodised alumium bolts or screws are OK for bottle cages. Try eBay.
Alternatively, keep your bike in the house! [:)]
<i>~Pete</i>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Ive heard this before...but what is this based on. I think it relates to industrial settings, where high temperatures and humidity are present...not your everyday environment.
I work with stainless steel bolts ALL YEAR.....and ive NEVER EVER broken one, and thats in an industrial setting, where you tighten things up wayyyyyy beyond what you would on a bike.
Again, you have stainless bolts, or even plated steel ones...tightening into alloy components...the alloy will go first EVERY time, and i'd virtually stake my very life on that.
I use, always have, and always will...stainless bolts.
Chill out, fer Christsakes....
Chill out, fer Christsakes....0 -
If stainless steel bolts are good enough to stop planes falling out the air, then they're good enough to hold my bike together - particularly stem faceplate bolts which are only torqued to 5-8Nm. Besides, spend enough and the likes of Deda fit titanium bolts to their top-model stems. Stress the bolt high enough and I think you'll find that you strip the thread in the aluminium alloy first anyway.0
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It's not just about how tightly the bolts can be done up, or about stripping threads. It's important that stem front bolts are strong and fatigue resistant enough to withstand the forces from riding the bike as the handlebars are stressed.
Not all bolts are made well, not all stainless steel is the same. There are different makes and grades. <u>Some</u> would not be used on aircraft or any vehicle on any safety-critical highly stressed part where only two or four small bolts were holding the part on.
Particularly it's most sensible to use the strongest and most fatigue resistant bolts if the face plate only has two bolts. The fancy ones with Ti bolts tend to have four bolts. If one of these fails, you've still got another three saving you from hitting the tarmac face-first.
I'm not terribly cautious in general when it comes to bike stuff, but this is one of the few areas where you should be very careful indeed. Don't replace the stem face bolts unless you really know what you're doing, is still my advice. I've heard "it before" from people who know plenty about engineering and bikes.<i>~Pete</i>0 -
Stick a dob of grease in the alloy hole, work it in using the allen key and wipe clean. Reapply after any subsequent tightening.0
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pbiggs</i>
It's not just about how tightly the bolts can be done up, or about stripping threads. <font color="red">It's important that stem front bolts are strong and fatigue resistant enough to withstand the forces from riding the bike as the handlebars are stressed.</font id="red">
<font color="red">Not all bolts are made well,</font id="red"> not all stainless steel is the same. There are different makes and grades. <u>Some</u> would not be used on aircraft or any vehicle on any safety-critical highly stressed part where only two or four small bolts were holding the part on.
Particularly it's most sensible to use the strongest and most fatigue resistant bolts if the face plate only has two bolts. The fancy ones with Ti bolts tend to have four bolts. If one of these fails, you've still got another three saving you from hitting the tarmac face-first.
I'm not terribly cautious in general when it comes to bike stuff, but this is one of the few areas where you should be very careful indeed. Don't replace the stem face bolts unless you really know what you're doing, is still my advice. I've heard "it before" from people who know plenty about engineering and bikes.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Good points...though i'm lucky in having 'free' access to 'good quality' stainless bolts, always have [:I]
Ok all you bike shop workers and owners out there...just what are the chances, and how often (or not) do bolts break..leaving the owner with a re-arranged face.
I dont doubt its possible.....but i havnt heard of it once in my 49 years. If its a genuine risk, i'd like to know for my own benefit (and face)
That said, getting back to Tangents point...if you have corrosion...and dont want to fit stainless...just go to the LBS and buy some new (proper) ones. They will of course corrode later...but its hardly going to break the bank.
Chill out, fer Christsakes....
Chill out, fer Christsakes....0 -
You'll find reports of every kind of failure under the sun in the rec.bicycle.tech newsgroup archives - via Google Groups.
Of course stem bolt failures are rare, but few people ever change the bolts.
Stems worry me more than most things because, what can you do, what chance have you got, when your handlebars suddenly come detached? It's worse than an instant front tyre blow out, for instance. At least you've got some chance of staying upright with that. (Happened to me last Sunday afternoon... tyre blow-out, that is).<i>~Pete</i>0 -
Sounds like you need Dave Middleton. I have bought significant quantities from him for motorcycle use. I am sure he will be able to offer advice re tensile strength and suitability for your stated use. (Basically stainless comes in varying grades for varying applications.)
http://www.stainlessmiddleton.co.uk/0 -
Thanks for all the replies everyone.
I've already got some bolts from stagonset, but unfortunately the heads on them are just slightly too large for my stem.
I'll try greasing the heads of the bolts to see if that helps matters.0 -
On a more physical level [:D] Halfords do stem bolts off the shelf ! - Which I bought 2 for my stem...and they seem quite sufficient for the job !
[;)] 'tuono nel mio cuore...[:)][;)] \'tuono nel mio cuore...[:)]0 -
Having rode today and syudied the forces on the handlebars etc...and imagining that force EVERY ride...i think will agree with pbiggs on this one...why put <font color="red">potentially</font id="red"> substandard bolts in.
Whats to be gained...hardly anything financially, so theres no point in going down that road.
So, i for one am converted. Correct bolts for critical areas is the sensible line.
Chill out, fer Christsakes....
Chill out, fer Christsakes....0
