Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

What bike and bike bits should you buy?
AndyH01
Posts: 502
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 19:06 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby AndyH01 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 11:36 am

I think it makes more sense to go with Hunt 650b with the bike and then "summer best" 700c was looking to run on something like gp5k tubeless 32 or 35. Rather than two 700c hunt plus other.

The question is what 700c wheelset for everyday 90% riding?

staffo
Posts: 135
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 21:35 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby staffo » Mon Dec 31, 2018 12:43 pm

For simplicity I’d be very tempted to get the same hubs on 700 rims. Different hubs may require adding shims to get the discs in the same position.

AndyH01
Posts: 502
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 19:06 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby AndyH01 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 13:11 pm

Good point, however it kind of defeats my justification of two wheelsets rather than two sets of tyres. In that I would like some "better" wheels than the stock.
I'm not sure in what why I want "better" other than higher spike count particularly on the back as be carrying a pannier so was thinking 28 front 32 rear and robust hubs and rims rather have quality and value then budget/cheap China knockoffs and something to match the 3k frame/group set.
I was also thinking of running a lower/easier cassette on the 650b then the 700c with probably a semi compact up front.

thecycleclinic
Posts: 6785
Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2012 23:53 pm
Contact:

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby thecycleclinic » Mon Dec 31, 2018 15:14 pm

With disc brake bikes you don't really need more spokes at the back than at the front. Off road riding or the kind you would do on a bokeh does not stress wheels any more than road riding as the tyre is meant to absorb the bumps.

DT Swiss alloy rims are not that great. CX-rays well they add cost. 240 hubs are overpriced for what you get. I would not bother. I never suggest them to customers as I feel like I am robbing them.

Lets break this down. the point of a second pair of wheels is if you run tubeless then you dont have to remove tubeless tyres to fit other ones. changing tubeless tyre regularly is not only a pain in the back side but tyre stretch becomes an issue as does tape lift. So two good pair of wheels one 700c for say 28mm tubeless tyres and one 650B for something like WTB resolutes would be great unless the bokeh has space for 700c 40mm tyre in which case what the point in having 650B wheels? Try talking to a wheel builder but this time dont approach with a spec (you may not have done that) just say what you need the wheels for and see what they suggest.

Hope is just one hub solution. There are others thankfully. Also in my experience if people tightened the lockrings up enough the alloy freehubs wont notch much at all. Those that think they do are not. a shimano made cassette on an alloy freehub requires about 50Nm on the lockring to stop notching. the lockring and the lockring threads will take that is they are clean and sharp, which they should be.
http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.

AndyH01
Posts: 502
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 19:06 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby AndyH01 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 16:12 pm

Mason recommends 700x40 (45 max) and 650bx50 (2.1' max) I'll want to fit full guards been looking at Velo Orange.
My main concern is for when it's snow/ice as most of route is off road cycle path and tow path so no gritters.
I was thinking 650b gives more options, I wouldn't mind trying cycle cross and there is a local league in its second year nearby but clashes with the rugby we also do on Sundays. I wouldn't normally buy 650b but thought more useful than two 700c ? As I can see a set of 700c with ice spikes just sitting there most of time unless snow/ice around whereas 650b I might be more inclined to look more off road then otherwise I would, but I suppose I could still fit a more aggressive wider tyre on a set of 700.
I was thinking higher spoke count for carrying load on the back?
I currently weigh 80kg bikes 9.2kg plus cloths lunch ect.
So what would you suggest for the nicer 700 x28/32/35 that's somehow better than Hunt's

User avatar
ugo.santalucia
Posts: 24131
Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:39 am

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby ugo.santalucia » Mon Dec 31, 2018 17:51 pm

I would like to point out that in cyclo cross the tyre size is limited to 33 mm... not 50

AndyH01
Posts: 502
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 19:06 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby AndyH01 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 18:25 pm

Yes aware some events limit others including the local league here don't, can just turn up on whatever, already checked with them

User avatar
ugo.santalucia
Posts: 24131
Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:39 am

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby ugo.santalucia » Mon Dec 31, 2018 18:36 pm

AndyH01 wrote:Yes aware some events limit others including the local league here don't, can just turn up on whatever, already checked with them


fine, that's because they don't want to put off people who only own a MTBike, but if you have a bike that can take 700 x 33, is it not against the spirit of the sport to fit 50 mm tyres?

Frankly I don't understand the need for 650 and 50 mm tyres in general... for a while I flirted with CX bikes and mud, but I always thought 33 mm was enough... anything more demanding requires flat bars, possibly shocks and big tyres... big tyres and drop bars are incompatible IMO

AndyH01
Posts: 502
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 19:06 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby AndyH01 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 19:12 pm

Would you go two sets of 700c instead then?
TBF only 5mm in it and these are max widths not suggesting would go that big.
Probably the 40 ish knoblerleys /ice spikes.

TimothyW
Posts: 2385
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 10:15 am

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby TimothyW » Mon Dec 31, 2018 21:58 pm

There are other advantages to having both wheelsets 700c, specifically that if anything does happen to either wheel/wheelset you can mix and match as required to make do while things are repaired.

User avatar
ugo.santalucia
Posts: 24131
Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:39 am

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby ugo.santalucia » Tue Jan 01, 2019 08:26 am

AndyH01 wrote:Would you go two sets of 700c instead then?
TBF only 5mm in it and these are max widths not suggesting would go that big.
Probably the 40 ish knoblerleys /ice spikes.


Funny enough, I never felt the need to have more than one set of wheels on a given bike... I once built myself a second set, but sold it within a few months

AndyH01
Posts: 502
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 19:06 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby AndyH01 » Tue Jan 01, 2019 10:51 am

Happy New Year all!
What did you do in snow/ice on the one set of wheels?
As this is instead of a second car I need to be able to commute year round and mostly off road so to start with at least the main concern is what to if/when snow /ice/frost forms on the ungritted cycle paths.

User avatar
ugo.santalucia
Posts: 24131
Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:39 am

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby ugo.santalucia » Tue Jan 01, 2019 12:01 pm

AndyH01 wrote:Happy New Year all!
What did you do in snow/ice on the one set of wheels?
As this is instead of a second car I need to be able to commute year round and mostly off road so to start with at least the main concern is what to if/when snow /ice/frost forms on the ungritted cycle paths.


2 bikes... one for commuting with spikes and one for leisure. Generally I would put them on and leave them on for the deepest winter, using the leisure bike on those days when they are clearly not necessary. More recently I have decided I can no longer be bothered to ride on ice, so I just drive on those (few so far) days when it's iffy.
Bus + Brompton is another option... bus in the morning, Brompton on the way back.

AndyH01
Posts: 502
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 19:06 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby AndyH01 » Tue Jan 01, 2019 12:45 pm

My plan is one bike, two wheels, possibly borrow a car if really too bad but experience shows bike better in those conditions anyway :D
Bus don't go direction guess be two or three busses.

User avatar
ugo.santalucia
Posts: 24131
Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:39 am

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby ugo.santalucia » Tue Jan 01, 2019 14:36 pm

AndyH01 wrote:My plan is one bike, two wheels, possibly borrow a car if really too bad but experience shows bike better in those conditions anyway :D
Bus don't go direction guess be two or three busses.


Bike might be better, but other drivers can still slide on the ice and bring your commute to a sudden halt in dramatic fashion, if it's as bad as you say. To be honest, I'd rather crash in a car, if I really have to.
Also, in my case driving means I can take a longer way round along busy dual carriageways, which are well gritted and safe. Cycling, I am bound to share a dodgy B road with traffic or take non gritted lanes, which occasionally are ice rinks.

This winter has been very kind, thus far

AndyH01
Posts: 502
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 19:06 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby AndyH01 » Tue Jan 01, 2019 16:33 pm

Indeed although I think mid Jan/Feb will be bad.
Last time it really snowed and I was thinking n bike I was gingerly riding on the paths safer option then ice skating with cars.

I've seen actually that bike treks stock the Bokeh so I'll give them a call tomorrow, see what they can do as a bike shop.

thecycleclinic
Posts: 6785
Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2012 23:53 pm
Contact:

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby thecycleclinic » Wed Jan 02, 2019 09:28 am

It easier to avoid a sliding car on a bike with I've tyres because you can steer and brake. Driving on snow and ice is more dangerous in a car. The logic expressed here is faulty.

As an owner of many wheels I also find I rarely swap wheels between bikes. If your commuting all year round then you should have a decidicated bike for that. I have a commuter bike and another old MTB with spiked tyres on for ice. An old MTB makes a good commutor if the commute is not too long.
http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.

AndyH01
Posts: 502
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 19:06 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby AndyH01 » Wed Jan 02, 2019 09:42 am

Commute is 10 miles
I want to upgrade the wheels anyway I think, don't know why,, as not much difference in price with/without the stock hunt I might as buy with wheels, I at not sure whether 700c or 650b. If 700c then I guess I could use just these for a bit, save up more and get a nice summer set next year, then use the Hunts as dedicated mud/ice. Or get 650b and a nice 700c as well off the bat and use these until snow falls then swap onto the 650b

moonshine
Posts: 1009
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 13:22 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby moonshine » Wed Jan 02, 2019 13:10 pm

I'm looking at a new set of summer wheels for my Cervelo c3. What is the opinion on a set of tubeless FarSports carbon 45mmx28mm disk rims with no brake track built on dt swiss 350s 24h disk hubs with Sapim cx sprint spokes for just over £500 delivered?

torino
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: Handbuilt wheels... the big thread

Postby torino » Wed Jan 09, 2019 22:12 pm

Building a The Hydra on Hope Pro4 hub, front only as I got the rear from a pro-builder. Standard stuff, 3x with Sapim Race and brass nipples. 32H. Wondering how tight the disc side spokes should be. Currently around 105kgf, pretty much uniform. Not sure if I tighten them a bit more or if it is just fine. Rear wheel is tight as hell, 125kgf, pretty uniform.

Builder used some nipple washers for the rear wheel, so I've also used in the front wheel (PITA to build those since I got 2 or 3 washers inside the rim and it was a nightmare to take them out).


Return to “Road Buying Advice”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 68 guests