Chainring bolt fury!
back-cyclin-again!
Posts: 101
Newbie MTBer here, be gentle…
I’ve just swapped the chainring on my Turbo Levo from the stock 32T to a Praxis 36T as I found I kept spinning out.
Anyway, the chainring bolts that go behind the ring were an absolute bi**h to get in as there’s no finger room behind the chainring to hold them in place, whilst screwing the bolt in.
As the bolt holes on the chainring are threaded, I’ve screwed the bolts through the spider and into the chainring, torqued them up and it’s solid as, holding tight. I’ve put small marks on the bolts to measure, had a test ride through the woods and the bolts haven’t moved.
So, my question is this: how crucial are the rear parts of the crank bolts if the chainring is threaded?
I’ve just swapped the chainring on my Turbo Levo from the stock 32T to a Praxis 36T as I found I kept spinning out.
Anyway, the chainring bolts that go behind the ring were an absolute bi**h to get in as there’s no finger room behind the chainring to hold them in place, whilst screwing the bolt in.
As the bolt holes on the chainring are threaded, I’ve screwed the bolts through the spider and into the chainring, torqued them up and it’s solid as, holding tight. I’ve put small marks on the bolts to measure, had a test ride through the woods and the bolts haven’t moved.
So, my question is this: how crucial are the rear parts of the crank bolts if the chainring is threaded?
0
Comments
-
Short answer: It's fine.
The Praxis chainring you have is a bit different to most because it is threaded. Most chainrings which don't have the threaded holes require the chainring nuts for the bolts to screw into, but with threaded holes on the chainring they're not required and probably can't be fitted at all.0
