Front mech not changing consistently
So I have ultegra r8000 levers and da 9000 front mech. The r8000 wasn't compatible with frame
When I change up to big ring, 8 out of 10 works perfect. Then the other times lever feels as if already in big ring, when you press it doesn't change up and lever feels locked.
I have to lean down, manually push mech with hand and press lever. Even after that....if I change down and back up it works.
Really annoying and can't figure. It was like this when swapped group set, got replacement lever and still same. So either 2 faulty levers or something else.
Pretty sure not cable catching, taken BB out and no obstruction.
Any idea guys? Am lost to be honest
When I change up to big ring, 8 out of 10 works perfect. Then the other times lever feels as if already in big ring, when you press it doesn't change up and lever feels locked.
I have to lean down, manually push mech with hand and press lever. Even after that....if I change down and back up it works.
Really annoying and can't figure. It was like this when swapped group set, got replacement lever and still same. So either 2 faulty levers or something else.
Pretty sure not cable catching, taken BB out and no obstruction.
Any idea guys? Am lost to be honest
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Hopefully its just some cable related though.
Soz.
The end to end process is a lever moving which mechanically pulls some cable, which then moves a mech at the other end of the cable.
So potentially:
Lever issue
Cable getting stuck / caught
Issue with the mech getting stuck / caught
Can you do anything to isolate or eliminate one or more of these potential sources?
Maybe a drop of lube on the cables to help them move smoothly?
I've had similar issues with my 105 mech in the winter, but that was when it was freezing and getting stuck.
I find pressing the inner leaver (as if you are changing down onto the small ring but obviously it's already on the small ring) a few times frees it up & it changes eventually.
Really frustrating though, works fine 1 minute & seems stuck the next.
If it's still in warranty I would be going down that route although I'm on my 2nd & it still does it.
Mine is 6 years old with plenty of use though.
I'll be stripping down the old one to see how easy it is to replace parts once my bike is up and running again.
I am not sure. You have no chance.
My opinion (FWIW) is change it out for an electronic version. The switch on my Di2 lever works so much better. It’s reliable and never needs adjusting. I just charge it up every month or so when I’m charging up my power meter. It’s a game changer.
I just need to bite the bullet and invest in electronic shifting on my winter bike or go single ring with a big cassette.
https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13114649/shimano-left-shifter-wont-shift-up-to-big-ring#latest
On my older model fd the outer plate started to bow out leading to poor shifting, possibly depending where I was on the back cassette. Sorted with a bit of brute force, but eventually bows again so needs replacing.
But I agree levers or cable also likely culprits.
I've always been tempted by electronic shifting on a winter bike.
The thought of the easier changes by just pressing a button with big thick gloves on (I wear them a lot as I suffer badly with cold hands) & no cables getting stretched or gunked up really appeals.
What doesn't appeal however is the upfront costs & the price of replacement bits should you stack it.
Since the only way to avoid the corrosion is to wash regularly then youre no further ahead with an electronic gear set than a cable one bar an infrequent cable change.
On the other hand its very nice to have DI2
Hard to argue with any of that.
Electronic shifting certainly falls into the “want” category rather than the “need” for a winter steed but if you can afford it why not?!?!
I may be one of the few, but I had a di2 bike in 2013 and all the bikes I've bought since have been mechanical - and I'm in no rush to go back to electronic gears.
Without a doubt.
No one "needs" Di2 or similar but that doesn't stop you wanting it.