SRAM Rival brakes

HI I have a Scott road bike with SRAM rival calliper brakes. The metal components - nuts / screws etc are corroded and therefore I either want to to replace the components or get new brake assemblies. Given the lack of parts at the moment, if I can't get the rival calliper brakes, are the SRAM Apex brakes compatible? If anyone has pointers around sourcing the nuts / screws etc then Im all ears on that as well :smile:

Comments

  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    edited March 2021
    Any other rim brake caliper from the SRAM range will be compatible - as will any other rim brake from any other manufacturer, assuming the same drop.

    Pull ratios may differ slightly between manufacturers, but the brakes will still operate.
  • joe_totale-2
    joe_totale-2 Posts: 1,333
    And likewise, any SRAM disc brake caliper will work with a Rival Hydro set up.
    Just be wary about using a different brand's caliper as it may well use Mineral Oil instead of the Dot 5.1 fluid that SRAM brakes use.

    Also you'll probably need to do a brake bleed once you fit a new hydro caliper.
  • masjer
    masjer Posts: 2,512
    The bolts / screws are probably stainless steel (Sram states they are). If so, remove and soak in acetic acid (white vinegar) for several hours. Use on old toothbrush to clean. Don't use wire brushes on stainless, it encourages further rusting.
    Alternatively Brasso metal polish or similar can work well. If they are pitted or not even stainless results may vary.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    all sram calipers are interchangeable so change away.

    don't bother soaking bolts, etc. just take off those you can/are happy with with the brake still being safe and take to local nut and bolt man who will sell you replacements for pennies.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • evans868
    evans868 Posts: 7
    Hi all just confirming that they are rim brakes
  • masjer
    masjer Posts: 2,512
    edited March 2021
    MattFalle said:

    all sram calipers are interchangeable so change away.

    don't bother soaking bolts, etc. just take off those you can/are happy with with the brake still being safe and take to local nut and bolt man who will sell you replacements for pennies.


    If only things were so simple!
    Your "local nut and bolt man" will almost certainly only stock marine grade (soft) A2-A4 bolts. These aren't the same grade as the caliper ones and could easily snap. A M5 bolt ( same size as the cable clamp bolt) in marine grade can only be torqued to a safe MAX of 4.6NM ie not enough. A2-A4 bolts are fine for things like bottle cages but I wouldn't use them on a brake caliper .
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    edited March 2021
    masjer said:

    MattFalle said:

    all sram calipers are interchangeable so change away.

    don't bother soaking bolts, etc. just take off those you can/are happy with with the brake still being safe and take to local nut and bolt man who will sell you replacements for pennies.


    If only things were so simple!
    Your "local nut and bolt man" will almost certainly only stock marine grade (soft) A2-A4 bolts. These aren't the same grade as the caliper ones and could easily snap. A M5 bolt ( same size as the cable clamp bolt) in marine grade can only be torqued to a safe MAX of 4.6NM ie not enough. A2-A4 bolts are fine for things like bottle cages but I wouldn't use them on a brake caliper .
    rubbish.

    go to the man who supplies the trade, not b&q/local hardware shop, ask for what you want and he will supply it.

    not sure where you get your stuff.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • masjer
    masjer Posts: 2,512

    rubbish.

    go to the man who supplies the trade, not b&q/local hardware shop, ask for what you want and he will supply it.

    not sure where you get your stuff.

    Just because you can't understand it, doesn't make it rubbish.
    As to where I get my stuff, thankfully not the same place as you.

  • Masjer what bolt standard would you recommend if not A2 / A4??

    I need to replace my saddle rail clamp bolts as the Titanium ones are knackered on my FSA seatpost.
  • masjer
    masjer Posts: 2,512
    You might be able to use A2/4 bolts as a direct replacement if the diameter of the bolts matches the torque figure of the part. trfastenings.com/Products/knowledgebase/Stainless-Steel-Fasteners/Pre-load-and-Tightening-Torques-Coarse-Metric-Threads
    These would be easy to find.
    Many bike bolts are martensitic stainless steel which can be hardened and are much stronger. They are magnetic whereas A2 A4 aren't- if you need to check a bolt. These stainless steels are 400 series but will be more difficult to source. They also aren't as corrosion resistant as marine grade but more so than steel.
    Making (evermore) lightweight parts calls for small diameter bolts, that's why a hardened stainless bolt is often used.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    edited March 2021
    FML.....

    the guy who supplies my bolts supplies motorbike and car bolts

    if his bolts stop my and everyone else's motorbikes at 180 mph they will stop a bicycle.

    stop over complicating this.

    go to the bolt factor. its their job.

    i honestly, honestly give up.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • masjer
    masjer Posts: 2,512
    Wise, give up
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    mate, with you, its the only option.

    are ti bolts ok by the way?
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    as an aside, all those years our bikes were held together with rusty self tappers and gutter bolts from our dad's garages - was that A Bad Thing?
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.