truing wheel

dazzzer
dazzzer Posts: 72
in MTB workshop & tech
Need some advise on truing my front mtb wheel and what i should do? The wheel is not far of being true, i have used the park tm 1 tool and i noticed the side with the brake disk rotors has more tension and its average is 21, with only a few spokes on that side got a 22 reading , The other side drive side is very mixed ranging from 14 - 15 -16 - 17 i think the average would be 15 . I cant tell what wheel this is but it has a hope pro hub the rim looks like a stans no tube mtb rim and the only thing i can see is a code NT1404564 there is nothing else .

Comments

  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    edited November 2020
    stick it in the stand tweak and then see if the variance in the drive side is smaller. Since you know the other side is pretty constant make your adjustments on the drive side.

    There are various schools of thought on this. When building wheels the aim is to get a consistent tension. Truing it after a year of potholes, crashes and jumps is a more practical exercise about getting a relatively true wheel.

    I have road wheels that are 5 years plus old still get used regularly and are bang on tension and true. I built them in the first place. I also have wheels that get a bit of stick where the tension is allover the place but the wheel is true, once they get to that state I stop caring and just use and abuse them :). What im trying to say is dont get too stressed about it.

    I'm sure that wheel builders will be along to tell me otherwise :). I've only built 3 wheels this year 2 rear and a front. so im not an expert
  • dazzzer
    dazzzer Posts: 72
    david37 said:

    stick it in the stand tweak and then see if the variance in the drive side is smaller. Since you know the other side is pretty constant make your adjustments on the drive side.

    There are various schools of thought on this. When building wheels the aim is to get a consistent tension. Truing it after a year of potholes, crashes and jumps is a more practical exercise about getting a relatively true wheel.

    I have road wheels that are 5 years plus old still get used regularly and are bang on tension and true. I built them in the first place. I also have wheels that get a bit of stick where the tension is allover the place but the wheel is true, once they get to that state I stop caring and just use and abuse them :). What im trying to say is dont get too stressed about it.

    I'm sure that wheel builders will be along to tell me otherwise :). I've only built 3 wheels this year 2 rear and a front. so im not an expert

    i got this wheel used so i don't know much about it but the reading i got was 15 67 kgf this seems low for a 29er mtb wheel , i have done this 21 94kgf and on the other side a put 20 105kgf , but i have major wobble now
  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    edited November 2020
    dazzzer said:

    david37 said:

    stick it in the stand tweak and then see if the variance in the drive side is smaller. Since you know the other side is pretty constant make your adjustments on the drive side.

    There are various schools of thought on this. When building wheels the aim is to get a consistent tension. Truing it after a year of potholes, crashes and jumps is a more practical exercise about getting a relatively true wheel.

    I have road wheels that are 5 years plus old still get used regularly and are bang on tension and true. I built them in the first place. I also have wheels that get a bit of stick where the tension is allover the place but the wheel is true, once they get to that state I stop caring and just use and abuse them :). What im trying to say is dont get too stressed about it.

    I'm sure that wheel builders will be along to tell me otherwise :). I've only built 3 wheels this year 2 rear and a front. so im not an expert

    i got this wheel used so i don't know much about it but the reading i got was 15 67 kgf this seems low for a 29er mtb wheel , i have done this 21 94kgf and on the other side a put 20 105kgf , but i have major wobble now
    yes once the rim is bashed about a bit, you can choose between consistent tension or trueness. its less of an issue with disc brakes. Perceived wisdom is tension! i think somewhere in between is a practical solution.

    Again im sure many would howl with disagreement, Im just saying my approach.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,300
    I'd agree with that. The problem with uneven tension is the loose spokes can work looser as the wheel turns and they are unloaded. But keeping a buckled rim true may dictate varying tensions. Hopefully you can true the wheel whilst keeping sufficient tension in all the spokes.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
    Cotic Solaris
  • thecycleclinic
    thecycleclinic Posts: 395
    Front wheel disc side will ha e higher tension than non disc side.

    When truing even out tensions while getting the wheel round and straight. Then squeeze spokes. The tension should drop. Side load the rim on a bench and if the wheel goes out of true, true and squeeze spokes and side load again. Repeat until the wheel is stable. This is wheel building. Enjoy.
    www.thecycleclinic.co.uk
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,443
    It all sounds like black magic to me!
  • gomezz
    gomezz Posts: 99
    steve_sordy said:

    It all sounds like black magic to me!

    Me too, the last tool I want is a spoke key, I can do enough damage with a screwdriver. :D

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