Noisy Ultegra drivetrain

245

Comments

  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    When you say upgrade to Di2, it depends on whether you want to go the whole groupset or mix and match. I run DA shifters and derailleurs, the electronic bits are the same for either, and I use Ultegra cassettes and chains as I’m not interested in the weight saving and shorter life expectancy of DA cassettes and chains for the huge price hike. As I said earlier I run Rotor cranks as I like the traditional look of a five arm crank. Ultegra is the sweet spot cost wise. Shop around and you can find discounts and significant savings over RRP.

    PP
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065

    When you say upgrade to Di2, it depends on whether you want to go the whole groupset or mix and match. I run DA shifters and derailleurs, the electronic bits are the same for either, and I use Ultegra cassettes and chains as I’m not interested in the weight saving and shorter life expectancy of DA cassettes and chains for the huge price hike. As I said earlier I run Rotor cranks as I like the traditional look of a five arm crank. Ultegra is the sweet spot cost wise. Shop around and you can find discounts and significant savings over RRP.

    PP

    If I was to get it I think I'd buy the upgrade kit where you get shifters, both mechs, battery, wiring, cables & junction box and just use my existing chainset, cassette, chain etc although I might start trawling eBay over the winter to see if I can pick up the bits separately as the kit is £799 at the minute which is expensive.

    They've had it on sale for a lot cheaper than that.
  • daviescgwen
    daviescgwen Posts: 44

    If I was to get it I think I'd buy the upgrade kit where you get shifters, both mechs, battery, wiring, cables & junction box and just use my existing chainset, cassette, chain etc although I might start trawling eBay over the winter to see if I can pick up the bits separately as the kit is £799 at the minute which is expensive.

    They've had it on sale for a lot cheaper than that.

    This is my next planned upgrade as well . I’ve been keeping an eye out for the upgrade kit as well but can’t justify it at full price. If you find a good deal let me know 👍
  • thebigman
    thebigman Posts: 57
    I also have this problem and im fairly sure that its a problem with the R8000 rear mech, everyone i have spoke to with ultegra have reported the same issue..
  • thebigman said:

    I also have this problem and im fairly sure that its a problem with the R8000 rear mech, everyone i have spoke to with ultegra have reported the same issue..

    What I don’t understand is why the reviews haven’t mentioned this at all. I did a lot of research on bike magazine and YouTube, looking at reviews and I didn’t hear or read anyone mentioning this issue. Most just stated how good the groupset is.
    Don’t get me wrong the shifting is great and I live the Emonda. I’m just not sure why Shimano would release such a nosiy drivetrain and have no way of solving the issue.
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    I’m not so sure it is a problem with the rear mech, I think it is cassette tooth/ chain design.

    PP
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    The strange thing is on my turbo I usually get Ultegra cassettes as I always thought they were quieter than 105 & I've heard DC Rainmaker say the same thing a few times.

    I think mine is quietening down a touch although in reality it's probably just me getting used to it.
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    Is it just me or is the rear wheel harder to get back on with the R8000 mech?

    Had the wheel off for the 1st time yesterday to give the bike a clean & needed 2 or 3 goes to get it back on. The mech doesn't seem as "flexible" somehow & the technique I've used for years on all my other bikes didn't seem to work that well. Pulling it back towards you out of the way didn't seem to do the job.

    Got it back on eventually but any hints / tips for owners of this mech would be welcome.

    Have to say I'm not overly impressed - what with this, the noise (which is still louder than I would like) & a couple of other niggles it makes me wonder if I should've stuck with 105.

    Aesthetically the rear mech & the brakes are much nicer but functionality maybe has been a wee bit compromised,
  • dannbodge
    dannbodge Posts: 1,152
    It's the jockey wheels. Change them to the older flatter versions and all will be quiet
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    edited June 2020
    dannbodge said:

    It's the jockey wheels. Change them to the older flatter versions and all will be quiet

    Really? I do happen to have some of the old Ultegra jockey wheels so maybe it's worth a go?

    I did notice these were a bit different but didn't think anything of it.

    Something to try @daviescgwen :)
  • dannbodge said:

    It's the jockey wheels. Change them to the older flatter versions and all will be quiet

    That’s one I hadn’t come across.
    @ibr17xvii let me know how it goes if you do try this.
    I don’t have any spare jockey wheels here.
    If it is as simple as this why the he’ll hasn’t shimano done this?
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    edited June 2020

    dannbodge said:

    It's the jockey wheels. Change them to the older flatter versions and all will be quiet

    That’s one I hadn’t come across.
    @ibr17xvii let me know how it goes if you do try this.
    I don’t have any spare jockey wheels here.
    If it is as simple as this why the he’ll hasn’t shimano done this?
    @daviescgwen I’ll need to see if I can find them 1st :)

    Incidentally if you’ve not had your back wheel off yet give it a go & let me know how you get on.

    To say I struggled the other day would be an understatement. This new R8000 mech doesn’t make it easy.
  • ibr17xvii said:

    dannbodge said:

    It's the jockey wheels. Change them to the older flatter versions and all will be quiet

    That’s one I hadn’t come across.
    @ibr17xvii let me know how it goes if you do try this.
    I don’t have any spare jockey wheels here.
    If it is as simple as this why the he’ll hasn’t shimano done this?
    @daviescgwen I’ll need to see if I can find them 1st :)

    Incidentally if you’ve not had your back wheel off yet give it a go & let me know how you get on.

    To say I struggled the other day would be an understatement. This new R8000 mech doesn’t make it easy.
    I have had the wheel off a few times. It’s not as easy as my old 105 5800 and on the first few attempts I seemed to have difficulty getting the disc on and the wheel on. After a few attempts now I seem to have mastered it bit find it easier to take off when it’s on a work stand.

  • dannbodge
    dannbodge Posts: 1,152
    ibr17xvii said:

    dannbodge said:

    It's the jockey wheels. Change them to the older flatter versions and all will be quiet

    Really? I do happen to have some of the old Ultegra jockey wheels so maybe it's worth a go?

    I did notice these were a bit different but didn't think anything of it.

    Something to try @daviescgwen :)
    Apparently so.
    There's a big thread on weightweenies about Shimano drivetrain noise and several people have reports changing the "spikey" jockey wheel for the older version has sorted the noise out.
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065

    ibr17xvii said:

    dannbodge said:

    It's the jockey wheels. Change them to the older flatter versions and all will be quiet

    That’s one I hadn’t come across.
    @ibr17xvii let me know how it goes if you do try this.
    I don’t have any spare jockey wheels here.
    If it is as simple as this why the he’ll hasn’t shimano done this?
    @daviescgwen I’ll need to see if I can find them 1st :)

    Incidentally if you’ve not had your back wheel off yet give it a go & let me know how you get on.

    To say I struggled the other day would be an understatement. This new R8000 mech doesn’t make it easy.
    I have had the wheel off a few times. It’s not as easy as my old 105 5800 and on the first few attempts I seemed to have difficulty getting the disc on and the wheel on. After a few attempts now I seem to have mastered it bit find it easier to take off when it’s on a work stand.

    It’s deffo not as easy as my 105 rear mech, totally different technique required. More practice needed I think.
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    dannbodge said:

    ibr17xvii said:

    dannbodge said:

    It's the jockey wheels. Change them to the older flatter versions and all will be quiet

    Really? I do happen to have some of the old Ultegra jockey wheels so maybe it's worth a go?

    I did notice these were a bit different but didn't think anything of it.

    Something to try @daviescgwen :)
    Apparently so.
    There's a big thread on weightweenies about Shimano drivetrain noise and several people have reports changing the "spikey" jockey wheel for the older version has sorted the noise out.
    Interesting.
  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 8,718
    Well if the latest iteration is noisier than 6800 it must be a right pain in the arris. With all groupsets doing the basics pretty well it's these little things that would make me go back to Campag or try SRAM next time.
    [Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]
  • dannbodge said:

    ibr17xvii said:

    dannbodge said:

    It's the jockey wheels. Change them to the older flatter versions and all will be quiet

    Really? I do happen to have some of the old Ultegra jockey wheels so maybe it's worth a go?

    I did notice these were a bit different but didn't think anything of it.

    Something to try @daviescgwen :)
    Apparently so.
    There's a big thread on weightweenies about Shimano drivetrain noise and several people have reports changing the "spikey" jockey wheel for the older version has sorted the noise out.
    Had a look at these and the chain length keeps coming back to me. The noise got far worse when I fitted a new 11-32 cassette with a new mid cage derailleur. I cut the chain but my LBS mechanic said if he had done it he would have added and extra link.
    This forum suggests that he may be right and the noise could be that the chain is a little too tight.

    https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=152332&sid=f064d9c5928bcd6ad99977da64e6d110
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065

    dannbodge said:

    ibr17xvii said:

    dannbodge said:

    It's the jockey wheels. Change them to the older flatter versions and all will be quiet

    Really? I do happen to have some of the old Ultegra jockey wheels so maybe it's worth a go?

    I did notice these were a bit different but didn't think anything of it.

    Something to try @daviescgwen :)
    Apparently so.
    There's a big thread on weightweenies about Shimano drivetrain noise and several people have reports changing the "spikey" jockey wheel for the older version has sorted the noise out.
    Had a look at these and the chain length keeps coming back to me. The noise got far worse when I fitted a new 11-32 cassette with a new mid cage derailleur. I cut the chain but my LBS mechanic said if he had done it he would have added and extra link.
    This forum suggests that he may be right and the noise could be that the chain is a little too tight.

    https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=152332&sid=f064d9c5928bcd6ad99977da64e6d110
    I've not even considered chain length & shouldn't have to on a brand new bike IMHO.

    If I've got the motivation next time I have the bike in the stand for a clean I might swap out the jockey wheels & see if that makes any difference but with the trouble I had getting the rear wheel back on I'll probably leave it for a bit :#
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    edited June 2020
    Just dug out the spare Ultegra jockey wheels I have to compare them to what's on the bike - the bottom one seems pretty similar to me but the top one is a lot different.

    The one supplied with the R8000 is thinner & the teeth are quite a bit longer & more pronounced. Could be nothing but don't know.

    Presumably the older style Ultegra pulleys will work in this new mech seeing as it's completely different?

    EDIT:

    These are what are supplied:

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rd-r8000-ultegra-11-speed-jockey-wheels

    These are what I have spare:

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rd-6800-ultegra-11-speed-jockey-wheels
  • ibr17xvii said:

    Just dug out the spare Ultegra jockey wheels I have to compare them to what's on the bike - the bottom one seems pretty similar to me but the top one is a lot different.

    The one supplied with the R8000 is thinner & the teeth are quite a bit longer & more pronounced. Could be nothing but don't know.

    Presumably the older style Ultegra pulleys will work in this new mech seeing as it's completely different?

    EDIT:

    These are what are supplied:

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rd-r8000-ultegra-11-speed-jockey-wheels

    These are what I have spare:

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rd-6800-ultegra-11-speed-jockey-wheels

    There’s a significant difference in the top jockey wheel. If you do have a go at changing them let me know if it makes a difference.
    Thanks
  • 50x11
    50x11 Posts: 408
    I have a very noisey Ultegra and it seems to be the front D, I've had it in to a race team mechanic who previously worked for Shimano, and he can't seem to get it right either.

  • dannbodge
    dannbodge Posts: 1,152
    ibr17xvii said:

    Just dug out the spare Ultegra jockey wheels I have to compare them to what's on the bike - the bottom one seems pretty similar to me but the top one is a lot different.

    The one supplied with the R8000 is thinner & the teeth are quite a bit longer & more pronounced. Could be nothing but don't know.

    Presumably the older style Ultegra pulleys will work in this new mech seeing as it's completely different?

    EDIT:

    These are what are supplied:

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rd-r8000-ultegra-11-speed-jockey-wheels

    These are what I have spare:

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rd-6800-ultegra-11-speed-jockey-wheels

    Should do. The guys on weightweenies swapped their 9100 ones for 9000 so I would assume the same goes for Ultegra.

    https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=145054
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    edited June 2020
    50x11 said:

    I have a very noisey Ultegra and it seems to be the front D, I've had it in to a race team mechanic who previously worked for Shimano, and he can't seem to get it right either.


    I wouldn't swear to it but I'm pretty sure it isn't the front mech on mine. Increased noise deffo seems to be coming from the rear.

    dannbodge said:

    ibr17xvii said:

    Just dug out the spare Ultegra jockey wheels I have to compare them to what's on the bike - the bottom one seems pretty similar to me but the top one is a lot different.

    The one supplied with the R8000 is thinner & the teeth are quite a bit longer & more pronounced. Could be nothing but don't know.

    Presumably the older style Ultegra pulleys will work in this new mech seeing as it's completely different?

    EDIT:

    These are what are supplied:

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rd-r8000-ultegra-11-speed-jockey-wheels

    These are what I have spare:

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rd-6800-ultegra-11-speed-jockey-wheels

    Should do. The guys on weightweenies swapped their 9100 ones for 9000 so I would assume the same goes for Ultegra.

    https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=145054

    Mmmmm might be worth a try than at some point. I prefer the look of the standard jockey wheels anyway if I'm honest although with the shadow design of the R8000 you can't see it much anyway.

  • photonic69
    photonic69 Posts: 2,410
    To isolate where the source of the noise is you could use a mechanic’s stethoscope. This should pinpoint where it’s loudest.

    This link is for example only. You can get for £3-5 on auction sites and amazon

    https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht171-mechanics-stethoscope/


    Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.

  • photonic69
    photonic69 Posts: 2,410
    To isolate where the source of the noise is you could use a mechanic’s stethoscope. This should pinpoint where it’s loudest.

    This link is for example only. You can get for £3-5 on auction sites and amazon

    https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht171-mechanics-stethoscope/


    Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.

  • Update. Just changed the chain as it had worn. Mechanic at LBS told me to add one more link this time as the new ultegra uses a slightly slacker chain tension.
    I was sceptical but it worked. Noticeable change in the amount of noise and shifting is spot on.
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065

    Update. Just changed the chain as it had worn. Mechanic at LBS told me to add one more link this time as the new ultegra uses a slightly slacker chain tension.
    I was sceptical but it worked. Noticeable change in the amount of noise and shifting is spot on.


    Interesting.

    I'll bear this in mind when I come to change mine.
  • brundonbianchi
    brundonbianchi Posts: 689
    edited December 2020
    I’ve got both R7000 ( 105 ) and R8000 ( Ultegra ) on my ‘utility road bikes’. There’s a compromise to be had regarding noises on certain ratios. It’s mainly caused by chain line issues. I either get a ( relatively) quiet top end, and slightly noisier low end, or vice versa, depending on how I trim the mechs whilst riding. I find that if I use the mech trim adjusters properly, I can minimise the noise. There’s also the ‘equivalent ratios’ thing to consider. Many big ring ratios will have a small ring equivalent. The small ring equivalent usually has a straighter chain line, and less noise. My ‘A bike’ automatically finds it, and shifts accordingly, on the manual shift bikes it’s down to me to find them.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    "utility road bike"

    #classic
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.