Removing Sram Rival cassette

It may be me being a weakling but I cannot get the cassette off my PX London Road with 1x11 Sram Rival groupset. It's under a year old from new and less than 1000 miles.

I'm using a cassette tool and chain whip. I have applied as much manual force as I can without a run up or a sledgehammer.

Is this unusual? I don't want to damage anything in the attempt to remove it.
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Comments

  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,695
    It's most likely just been tightened by a gorilla mechanic. Extension bars may help.
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    I presume you're having problems shifting the lock ring since you mention use of a chain whip.
    In the past I've always relied on using the type of lock ring tool that has a recess for a standard socket set drive bar (1/4 inch I think). One like this:-



    Then use a drive with the longest handle possible, maybe even extend the length by slipping a bit of piping over the end of the drive handle.

    I also use the technique of standing the wheel against my legs with the chain whip in my left hand and the socket bar in my right positioned at 10 and 2 on a clock face as you look at the wheel. You can then get much more force pushing down on both handles with your body weight from above.

    Works every time for me

  • Using these tools has made life so much easier than the old chain whip / socket & wrench approach for me. Much easier to apply leverage.



  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    I find you can usually find something in the garden shed to give you extra leverage. Aluminium rakes and things ? Slip the spanner handle inside and plenty of leverage.

    And don't overdo the tightening up again. No need for huge force.
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,695
    bondurant said:

    Using these tools has made life so much easier than the old chain whip / socket & wrench approach for me. Much easier to apply leverage.



    Assuming it's a 10-42 cassette, you can't use the Decathlon 'chain whip' shown in the top image, they only work with 11t or bigger for the small cog.
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    In which case you need

    https://uniortools.com/eng/product/1670-2BI-freewheel-remover#44586 10-14t compatible

    Prefer it over the Park CP1 as theres no moving parts to worry over
  • manglier
    manglier Posts: 1,208
    3 Weetabix for breakfast.
  • paulbnix
    paulbnix Posts: 631
    I use a socket set and a mallet to get the lock ring moving.
  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    paulbnix said:

    I use a socket set and a mallet to get the lock ring moving.

    there's always the impact wrench when all else fails :wink: