Mrp Ramp control upgrade cartridges

Morning everyone. My first post on here so just a quick hello before my question.
So has anyone had experience with the above upgrade? I'm considering for a bday present next year but want to know if they worth it.
Thanks

Comments

  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,443
    edited December 2019
    I have not used one myself, but several guys on another Forum have done so and all rate them very highly.
    I did my air tuning the old way, by adding or removing spacers in the air leg. The effect is astonishing! Done it on several bikes now, the shocks too.
    Given the impact of such a simple and quick thing to do, I do question the value for money of the mrp ramp control. Once you have it dialled, there is no further need to adjust it.
    See this review from Guy Kesteven (my favourite reviewer):
    https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/components/forks/suspension-forks/mrp-ramp-control-cartridge-review/
  • I've got a new long travel hardtail and I am going to have a play with the spacers to get it set up correctly. My only thinking for this would be that im using as a bit of everything. Xc riding to almost downhill riding dependent what I'm doing on the day. So wondered if this would benefit. I'll need to try different scenarios with different spacers in I guess. Out of interest how many spacers do you run? And what forks are you running?
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,443
    I have modified the number of spacers on my fork and also my shock on several different bikes. But there is no formula to be followed that connects suspension travel with your weight or riding style. The first thing is to get the suspension you have set up as best you possibly can. There are many "how to.." guides on the internet, as well as short video to follow, but the absolute best I have come across is this one from Bike Rumour. It will tell you all you need to know and a lot you didn't think that there was to know"!
    https://bikerumor.com/2014/10/30/bikerumor-suspension-setup-series-full-series-pdf-free-download/

    One thing that I have discovered is that in the last year or so, it is no longer sufficient to just pump up the fork/shock and go. You absolutely have to inflate as required by the manufacturer's website. This usually requires inflating in stages and compressing the suspension several times after each addition of air. This allows the negative chamber to be properly charged. It makes a difference.

    So, once you have inflated the fork/shock properly and made all the adjustments for %sag, rebound damping and compression damping. Only then is the next step the air tuning.

    On a Norco Sight, the Fox 32 Factory fork was fine, the Fox Float CTD BV SV - Performance shock needed a small 0.2 cuin spacer, 0.4 cuin was too much. Both ends 140mm travel
    On a YT Capra I had to add 3 tokens to the 160mm Rockshox Pike RCT3 fork (none originally) out of a max allowable of four. But the 165mm travel Rockshox Monarch Plus RC3 shock was perfect.
    On a Whyte T130, the Pike RC was perfect, but the RockShox Monarch Debonair, RT3 shock needed 3 rings added (none fitted).

    For air tuning you have to start with the suspension as good as you can get it first, then ask yourself what still needs doing? If it is not using as much of its travel as you would expect, then you need to reduce the number of spacers/tokens/rings/whatever. If it is diving too much on drops or just using up too much travel then you need to add some spacers/tokens/rings/whatever. Each time you have added or removed then check the % sag again. Ask the question about the fork and shock separately. So far I have never had to tune both ends. Although that is about to change.

    I bought an emtb this year (Focus Jam2 9.6 NINE) It came with the Revelation RC fork with the Debonair spring. The shock is a RockShox Deluxe R Debonair. The travel is 150mm both ends. I quickly got the suspension as best I could but I still wasn't happy. The fork was not using enough travel and the shock was using too much. Following the above procedure, I opened up the fork and found one spacer, so I removed that. The difference was very noticeable and I'm happy with it. I had been considering upgrading the Revelation to a Pike by swapping out the damper for the new Charger 2 damper in the right hand leg. But no longer! I have taken my time with the shock. Focus say that the rear suspension design adds mid stroke support a bit deeper into the shock's travel, and it sure feels OK. But it uses up a lot more travel than the fork, most of it in fact, much more than I would expect, although I have never bottomed it out. The problem is when climbing. The shock goes through its travel more than the fork and alters the attitude of the whole bike, making the head angle steeper. On really steep climbs this makes the steering wander before it should and I end up stalling out. If I add some rings it will add mid stroke support and should prevent the shock from sinking into its travel quite so much.

    I would have done the shock by now, but a mate of mine borrowed a ShockWiz from a friend of his (Google it) and offered to let me borrow it when he's done with it.He had it for quite a while. But I have now almost finished using it on the fork and it confirmed all the settings except to add one more click of rebound damping. I look forward to seeing what it makes of the shock. I am expecting it to confirm that it needs some rings added.

    Net message:
    Set up the suspension to be the best you can.
    Ask the air tuning question separately about the fork and shock.
    You might have to do nothing, or only to one end or the other, maybe both!
    Add spacers for more support and less travel used up on the average ride.
    Remove spacers for a less harsh ride and more travel on the average ride.
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,443
    PS: Once the suspension was set up and I'd got the air spring sorted too, I found that the bike coped with everything I needed it to do without me feeling the need to alter the air spring rate. Yes, I might add or remove a click of compression and very occasionally a click of rebound (can't remember even if I did that this year other than when playing with the ShockWiz), but mostly it's fit and forget.
    I may also add 1-2 psi to the tyres if I will be doing a particularly rocky trail. But mostly I leave them be.
  • Brilliant response thank you!