‘Tubeless ready’

neal1984
neal1984 Posts: 240
in MTB buying advice
So I decided to have a go at converting to tubeless on a Boardman MHT 8.9 I’ve just recently bought. Wheels and tyres are sold as ‘tubeless ready’. I had a crack at it tonight but have discovered a large leak at the join in the rim (in between two spokes).

My question is this; is the rim faulty or should I have swapped out the standard rim tape first?

Rim tape is fitted covering the spoke holes and I do not appear to be getting any significant leaks from the spokes just this leak at the join.

Not sure how I can upload the video here so I’ve shared my iCloud link if that works;
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ARkvXBkL882YExIpLpsVbrog#Hornchurch

Life is like riding a bicycle: you don't fall off unless you stop pedaling.


Scott Foil Team Issue HMX Di2
Boardman Team Carbon LTD

Comments

  • robertpb
    robertpb Posts: 1,866
    Go and buy a roll of Gorilla tape, that will seal the rims properly.
    Now where's that "Get Out of Crash Free Card"
  • RedClip
    RedClip Posts: 110
    Is the leak coming from the join directly opposite the valve hole?
    If it is, I had the same issue with my DT Swiss 1850 wheels, when I test filled the tyres with just air.
    Once I put sealant into the tyre, the leak stopped. Especially when the join is at the bottom of the wheel and the sealant is pooled there too.

    Yes, I would remove the standard rim tape.
    Mine came with proper rim tape installed, but I added another layer using Gorilla Tape.
    You could try that over the top of the other if you wanted to.

    Sorry, I can't get the video to play.
  • neal1984
    neal1984 Posts: 240
    Yes, the leak is 180 degrees from the valve.

    Thanks for your help, I will get some gorilla tape and try again.

    Life is like riding a bicycle: you don't fall off unless you stop pedaling.


    Scott Foil Team Issue HMX Di2
    Boardman Team Carbon LTD
  • figbat
    figbat Posts: 680
    I believe you still need to tape a tubeless-ready rim, so yes, you will need to replace the standard rim tape with something sticky. I also use Gorilla tape.
    Cube Reaction GTC Pro 29 for the lumpy stuff
    Cannondale Synapse alloy with 'guards for the winter roads
    Fuji Altamira 2.7 for the summer roads
    Trek 830 Mountain Track frame turned into a gravel bike - for anywhere & everywhere
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    neal1984 said:

    Yes, the leak is 180 degrees from the valve.

    Thanks for your help, I will get some gorilla tape and try again.

    It's 180deg from the valve because that is where the joint is.

    Gorilla tape does the job well but I wouldn't use it. It's a complete bugger to remove if you ever need to renew it and leaves sticky patches of glue all over the rim internal surface. Get some proper tubeless rim tape, watch a few YouTube videos on how to install it and crack on.
    I have had good results with Specialized 2Bliss Ready Rim Strips as well. They are like giant elastic bands. Hard to initially fit as they are such a tight fit but seal really well. They are also very cheap. About £2 - £3 per wheel.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • lesfirth
    lesfirth Posts: 1,382
    0110 said:

    Is the leak coming from the join directly opposite the valve hole?
    If it is, I had the same issue with my DT Swiss 1850 wheels, when I test filled the tyres with just air.
    Once I put sealant into the tyre, the leak stopped. Especially when the join is at the bottom of the wheel and the sealant is pooled there too.

    Yes, I would remove the standard rim tape.
    Mine came with proper rim tape installed, but I added another layer using Gorilla Tape.
    You could try that over the top of the other if you wanted to.

    Sorry, I can't get the video to play.

    My advise is exactly as above.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    The rim tape that was on the wheel from factory probably wasn't thick enough. sometimes people do two layers to be sure.

    re doing the wheel with better tape will help and make sure you get some for the right size of the internal diameter of the rim.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    swod1 said:


    re doing the wheel with better tape will help and make sure you get some for the right size of the internal WIDTH of the rim.

    FTFY
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

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