Mudguards for tight clearances

dannbodgedannbodge Posts: 709
edited 13 October in Road buying advice
I've got a Specialized Allez with Ultegra 6800 brakes and 25mm Michelin Pro4 endurance tyres on Mavic Ksyrium elite wheels.

Can anyone recommend some mudguards for very tight fitting brakes?
I can just about squeeze a 4mm Allen key between the tyre and brakes.
Currently got some SKS Raceblade long but they don't fit due to the space available

Posts

  • slowbikeslowbike Posts: 8,345
    ? Ah - I guess it's the tyre/wheel combo - I've got an Allez and use the SKS RB longs - having used the Crud RoadRacer II's until they wore through.
    You're next best guess is to use the raceblade pro or the Crud RR III's might work
  • dannbodgedannbodge Posts: 709
    slowbike wrote:
    ? Ah - I guess it's the tyre/wheel combo - I've got an Allez and use the SKS RB longs - having used the Crud RoadRacer II's until they wore through.
    You're next best guess is to use the raceblade pro or the Crud RR III's might work

    Yeah they measure nearly 28mm when inflated to 100psi.
    The longs would fit if there was 0.5/1mm more clearance :(
  • slowbikeslowbike Posts: 8,345
    Stupid question - can you not take the brackets over the top of the brakes rather than beneath?

    I run on 23 or 25mm conti's - I think I've got stock shimano wheels on there atm (cheapo set) - can you get a set with wider rims that might give a little more space?
  • dannbodgedannbodge Posts: 709
    Not sure. I'll take a look.

    Surely that would make them miles away from the wheels though
  • slowbikeslowbike Posts: 8,345
    you could use the longer bracket and bend it back down - it's only the rear rear that has to go up and over ...
  • dannbodgedannbodge Posts: 709
    Possibly. I'll double check the fronts too.
    Might just return them and get the normal Raceblades.
    I wanted a bit more coverage ideally but it'll be better than nothing
  • I used a set of Flinger Race Pro mudguards on my Colnago AC-R last winter, which has very tight clearances. The Flingers are good because the two sections are joined in such a way that only the narrow brackets need to go under the brake bridge, as opposed to the whole mudguard. Maybe be worth a look. Sorry I don't have pics, as both the bike and the guards are sold (not suitable for my current winter bike).
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  • redvisionredvision Posts: 2,307
    Which year allez have you got? The 2018/19/20 models come with mudguard eyelets and are supposed to be fine with full guards and up to 25mm tyres.
  • dannbodgedannbodge Posts: 709
    redvision wrote:
    Which year allez have you got? The 2018/19/20 models come with mudguard eyelets and are supposed to be fine with full guards and up to 25mm tyres.

    It's a 2010. It's got the eyelets just not the clearance
  • dannbodgedannbodge Posts: 709
    slowbike wrote:
    Stupid question - can you not take the brackets over the top of the brakes rather than beneath?

    I run on 23 or 25mm conti's - I think I've got stock shimano wheels on there atm (cheapo set) - can you get a set with wider rims that might give a little more space?

    That looks like it could work now.

    The long one might just do it, but seeing as it's just a piece of metal with some holes in, I can knock something up at work to do the job.

    The front fits perfectly though.
  • nitrousoxidenitrousoxide Posts: 3,821
    If the 25mn Michelin has a real world ~28mm width and you are looking to find ~1mm extra clearance, why not swap the rear to one with less width?

    For example, the 25mm Conti 4 Seasons will be ~26mm wide (the 28mm variant is ~29mm wide on 17mm internal rim width wheels on my Cube).
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  • dannbodgedannbodge Posts: 709
    If the 25mn Michelin has a real world ~28mm width and you are looking to find ~1mm extra clearance, why not swap the rear to one with less width?

    For example, the 25mm Conti 4 Seasons will be ~26mm wide (the 28mm variant is ~29mm wide on 17mm internal rim width wheels on my Cube).

    It's okay I've got it sorted now. That was ultimately my back up option. Didn't really want to spend more money on tyres when these have only done a few hundred miles and the front was replaced earlier this week when I got a cut in it down through the canvas!

    6O6PXFy.jpg
  • jgsijgsi Posts: 5,030
    Sort of setup I had a few years back. This just didnt handle a daily work commute at all and just fatigued and snapped.
    Hence , I am now on those dmned expensive PDWs, but at least there are about to do a 4th winter season with just one pop rivet repair last Feb.
    #Plasticsucks
  • dannbodgedannbodge Posts: 709
    jgsi wrote:
    Sort of setup I had a few years back. This just didnt handle a daily work commute at all and just fatigued and snapped.
    Hence , I am now on those dmned expensive PDWs, but at least there are about to do a 4th winter season with just one pop rivet repair last Feb.
    #Plasticsucks


    If it all goes to plan and I actually stick with commuting over winter then next year I'll look at getting something with discs and a load of clearance for proper guards.
  • me-109me-109 Posts: 1,105
    Like JGSI I had something similar on Topeak and SKS guards. Just kept fatiguing and fracturing. That wasn't even commuting just the couple of road sessions per week. That was also the main reason I went to a gravel disc bike and I've been really pleased with the choice.
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