Cannondale Spidering Float?
Not sure if this is an original question or if I've just got my search terms wrong:
Should a Cannondale Spidering have any 'float' when it's mounted to a set of SI/SISL/SISL2 cranks?
Whilst replacing the chain yesterday I noticed that my spidering can wiggle ~2 degrees rotationally back and forth on the cranks. Can't work out whether it's always been like this and I just never noticed (because it's not a fixie), or if it's come back from a recent service with this as a new issue. I don't have the tools to service this proprietary system so I've no idea whether this is normal or an indication that a lockring or something needs to be tightened.
I took it in for it's last warrantied service about a month ago and asked them to check out some BB noise. I'd checked the BB and not found any obvious issues, so I asked them to see if it was anything to do with the interface between spidering and crank. When I got it back I'd been billed for a new BB30 but there was no mention of anything to do with the spider. Except for one outing the bike has been on the turbo since, and barely used there either as the weather has been decent and I've been obsessively getting in every last mile I can on the summer bike.
Any education on the cannondale proprietary spider/crank interface much appreciated!
Cheers,
Alex
Should a Cannondale Spidering have any 'float' when it's mounted to a set of SI/SISL/SISL2 cranks?
Whilst replacing the chain yesterday I noticed that my spidering can wiggle ~2 degrees rotationally back and forth on the cranks. Can't work out whether it's always been like this and I just never noticed (because it's not a fixie), or if it's come back from a recent service with this as a new issue. I don't have the tools to service this proprietary system so I've no idea whether this is normal or an indication that a lockring or something needs to be tightened.
I took it in for it's last warrantied service about a month ago and asked them to check out some BB noise. I'd checked the BB and not found any obvious issues, so I asked them to see if it was anything to do with the interface between spidering and crank. When I got it back I'd been billed for a new BB30 but there was no mention of anything to do with the spider. Except for one outing the bike has been on the turbo since, and barely used there either as the weather has been decent and I've been obsessively getting in every last mile I can on the summer bike.
Any education on the cannondale proprietary spider/crank interface much appreciated!
Cheers,
Alex
Custom Albannach Torragar [BUILD IN PROGRESS]
2020 Ribble CGR SL
2019 Vitus Vitesse Evo CRS Disc
2020 Ribble CGR SL
2019 Vitus Vitesse Evo CRS Disc
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Comments
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I replaced a 52/36 spidering for a 50/34 on an SiSL2 crankset. I observed no float of any kind in any direction.
Only thing as, as your doubtless aware, you need the proper tool to get crank off in the first place, then another proprietary tool to undo and tighten the lock ring.
Also, you should use loctite (think it’s 242) for the chainring / crank interface, and a torque wrench for the correct torque level.
Hope that helps.0 -
Ugh that's frustrating!
I've got a trick for getting the cranks off - 10mm socket on the end of a 3 inch ratchet extender fits perfectly inside the spindle and gives a standard square taper crank puller something to push against.
No spider lockring tool though so will have to either order one or take the crank round to my LBS. Loctite sounds like a good shout.
Cheers!Custom Albannach Torragar [BUILD IN PROGRESS]
2020 Ribble CGR SL
2019 Vitus Vitesse Evo CRS Disc0 -
Here’s the official Cannondale instructions that I followed (page 2).
https://www.cannondale.com/~/media/Files/PDF/Dorel/Cannondale/Common/Support/Accessories/SISL2_Road_Crankset_Instr_1012.ashx
The special lockring tool costs around £25, but at least you’ll have it forever, and if you do sell it, you’ll get I decent return I guess.
I really wouldn’t attempt it without the proper thing, it has little enough purchase as it is!0 -
Thanks both, ran it round to my local mechanic yesterday and had him sort it - seems in the previous service the shop I bought from used grease instead of loctite so it was coming loose. My local hero charged me £7.50 and I gave him a tenner because he's a gem of a mechanic to have so close to my house. Now that the bike is out of warranty it definitely won't be going back to the original purchase shop for any further service (this wasn't the only sloppy work I've had back from them, but certainly the most significant).
I figure the issue should now be sorted til at least the new year. Will keep an eye out for the tool to come back in stock at a good price in the meantime (it's on backorder with Triton).
I'd ideally shorten these cranks from 172.5 to 170, and if I'm doing that then makes sense to upgrade from the forged SI model to the SISL ones, so I might do it all at once. Or I might finally give up on BB30 altogether, get a screw together conversion BB, and switch to 105/ultegra cranks. Time (and frustration levels) will tell.Custom Albannach Torragar [BUILD IN PROGRESS]
2020 Ribble CGR SL
2019 Vitus Vitesse Evo CRS Disc0 -
Not sure about that. This guy...Also, you should use loctite (think it’s 242) for the chainring / crank interface,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaYi4splh9Q
says to use grease if you are likely to want to undo the nut again. Only use loctite for stuff you'll never want to undo.
Just done mine - with the tool - and it was easy. No float at all.
Tool was damned hard to get hold off. Nobody seems to have one. Mine has been on backorder for some time. In the end I bought it from Germany. While we are still in EU importing was no problem, and cost was same as a UK one.0 -
Franco di Banco wrote:
Not sure about that. This guy...Also, you should use loctite (think it’s 242) for the chainring / crank interface,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaYi4splh9Q
says to use grease if you are likely to want to undo the nut again. Only use loctite for stuff you'll never want to undo.
Just done mine - with the tool - and it was easy. No float at all.
Tool was damned hard to get hold off. Nobody seems to have one. Mine has been on backorder for some time. In the end I bought it from Germany. While we are still in EU importing was no problem, and cost was same as a UK one.
If you use blue threadlock rather than red it can be undone without too much effort. Red is what you use on con rod bolts etc! Take a look at the loctite website and read up on the correct thread lock for parts that you will want to undo again at some point.
PP0 -
Franco di Banco wrote:
Not sure about that. This guy...Also, you should use loctite (think it’s 242) for the chainring / crank interface,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaYi4splh9Q
says to use grease if you are likely to want to undo the nut again. Only use loctite for stuff you'll never want to undo.
Just done mine - with the tool - and it was easy. No float at all.
Tool was damned hard to get hold off. Nobody seems to have one. Mine has been on backorder for some time. In the end I bought it from Germany. While we are still in EU importing was no problem, and cost was same as a UK one.
Well Cannondale say you should use 242. Follow the link in my second post- Page 2. As PP says, it’s not a thread lock like the red or green ones. Loctite do all kinds of variants...0
