Bike modifications advise please

NeilP1972
NeilP1972 Posts: 5
edited September 2019 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi

1st post and i could do with a bit of advice please.

We were given an orbea MX24 by some friends who went back to Aus. The bike owed me nothing and the paint was scruffy so i stripped it down and sent it for powdercoating in red as that my lads favourite colour.

As the bike pretty much owes sod all i thought i would lighten it up and do some mods with a mixture of new and old parts where necessary. A friend has laced up a new set of wheels so i thought i would change it up from a 1x7 to a 1x9.

I went to our local bike shop to buy a shifter and rear mech but was advised i would need a derailleur with a clutch in it as i was keeping it 1x and not changing the crankset to a 2x or 3x. Is this correct? the original 7 speed derailleur does not have a clutch as far as i can see so i am not sure what the difference is.

Comments

  • larkim
    larkim Posts: 2,474
    Unlikely to be necessary, I've got two bikes in our garage with 1x setups, neither of them have clutched mechs. Though they do have narrow/wide chainrings up front, which addresses (mostly) the same issue of chains leaping off up front as a clutched mech does. I suppose it depends on the rider and the terrain a bit. If the chainring itself can't be changed easily to a NW ring, cautiously adding a clutched mech won't be a bad thing - but if you're looking to spend as little as possible, I reckon you'd probably be OK without.
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
  • figbat
    figbat Posts: 680
    I built up a gravel bike from an old MTB and changed it from 3x7 to 1x10. I use a narrow-wide chainring and a small chain-guide but no clutched rear mech. So far, over some pretty lumpy terrain, the chain has never jumped and I don't get that much chain slap either. This bike was done on the cheap too, so not much spent on the 'ring or guide.
    Cube Reaction GTC Pro 29 for the lumpy stuff
    Cannondale Synapse alloy with 'guards for the winter roads
    Fuji Altamira 2.7 for the summer roads
    Trek 830 Mountain Track frame turned into a gravel bike - for anywhere & everywhere
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I've been 1x for 4 years and never had a damped (aka clutch) mech. AS long as you use a chain retention (Narrow wide or chain guide)at the front the damper is a nice to have, not a need to have.

    In fact I'm still running my nice XTR 9sp rear mech on my 1x10 wide range, unfortunately I can't use it when I go 1x11 soon.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thanks all

    I dont mind spending some money on it as i was going to buy a new bike anyway, we had a chat about it and he wanted to build the Orbea into the bike he wanted. I am mechanically minded as i have restored and modified many cars but never an MTB.

    I will order up some parts now. Then i will probably ask for more advise on reducing the travel and fitting some SID forks i have had kicking around.
  • larkim
    larkim Posts: 2,474
    In which case, definitely get a NW ring up front if you can find one to fit the crank. Cheap, effective and the right thing to do!
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)