Ok, is 27 too many, 11 too few and 20 just right?
paddywhacked
Posts: 36
Things seem to move quick in the world of MTB, and the number of gears is no exception. I guess much depends on the type of riding and rider, but what's the right balance when is comes to gears.
The last MTB I bought was over 20 years ago, a Diamond Back Ascent with 27 gears. So, now back in the market for something a little more up to date and wanted to know how many gears would suit my needs best on the new steed - 1 x 10, 2 x 10, 3 x 9 or other?
I plan to get a hardtail and will be using this on trails of varying difficulty, plus climbing the mountains around my home town of Conwy.
Cheers, Paddy.
The last MTB I bought was over 20 years ago, a Diamond Back Ascent with 27 gears. So, now back in the market for something a little more up to date and wanted to know how many gears would suit my needs best on the new steed - 1 x 10, 2 x 10, 3 x 9 or other?
I plan to get a hardtail and will be using this on trails of varying difficulty, plus climbing the mountains around my home town of Conwy.
Cheers, Paddy.
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its so personal .. there just isn't a correct answer, it all depends on the sort of riding you do and how you like to play with gears.
on my aggressive XC bike I swear by the 3x9 layout .. loads of gears for technical climbing from loose rock to mud to roots to steps, there is always a gear available ..... on flat lands she lives in the middle cog and get out on the decents and tarmac and there is plenty of range in the large cog to keep the speed up
currently borrowing a 1x11 though for the twisty flat trails in Bristol and its so much nicer, don't think, just ride, spinning to quick drop down, too slow go up, chain never jumps, easy to clean, never get rub, weighs so much less .... I love it so much I am looking to canabalise my Klein to make it 1x11 for this very purpose ..... but get it on the tarmack or technical climbs and quite often I find myself lacking the gear I want and either slowing down or exploding my legs as I flip between gears trying to find that sweet spot
Never ridden 2x10 MTB ..... only road bikes, so dunno if the gearing is the same, but it works well for the road ????0 -
Look at the top and bottom gear ratios of your current set up, and ask yourself of you need to go higher or lower with your next bike. Then decide how important small intervals are to you when changing gears. The more chainrings you get, the narrower the cassette you need for the same range. Or combining a triple with a wide range casette gives you a wider range than a single or double chainset. It's up to you.
I've only ever driven past Conwy without stopping, but the hills look big. I'd be going for the widest range I could get.0 -
Don't forget that a 27 speed MTB actually only has about 13 discrete gears as 3-9 on the back in the granny ring are similar to 1-7 in the middle ring and then similar middle to big ring.
I rode for 3 years on 1x9 with just an 11-34, longer steeper climbs were the only issue (keeping the minimum speed for short hills was fine), recently gone to 1x10 with a 11-40t to rectify that and all is good.
That's for a slightly overweight and only moderately fit half centurion.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
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Parktools0 -
Thanks, really interesting to learn all this new stuff.fat daddy wrote:its so personal .. there just isn't a correct answer, it all depends on the sort of riding you do and how you like to play with gears.
on my aggressive XC bike I swear by the 3x9 layout .. loads of gears for technical climbing from loose rock to mud to roots to steps, there is always a gear available ..... on flat lands she lives in the middle cog and get out on the decents and tarmac and there is plenty of range in the large cog to keep the speed up
currently borrowing a 1x11 though for the twisty flat trails in Bristol and its so much nicer, don't think, just ride, spinning to quick drop down, too slow go up, chain never jumps, easy to clean, never get rub, weighs so much less .... I love it so much I am looking to canabalise my Klein to make it 1x11 for this very purpose ..... but get it on the tarmack or technical climbs and quite often I find myself lacking the gear I want and either slowing down or exploding my legs as I flip between gears trying to find that sweet spot
Never ridden 2x10 MTB ..... only road bikes, so dunno if the gearing is the same, but it works well for the road ????0 -
Conwy mountain is pretty steep, but that's just the start of a few big climbs. That said, some great down bits too. Thank you.mrfpb wrote:Look at the top and bottom gear ratios of your current set up, and ask yourself of you need to go higher or lower with your next bike. Then decide how important small intervals are to you when changing gears. The more chainrings you get, the narrower the cassette you need for the same range. Or combining a triple with a wide range casette gives you a wider range than a single or double chainset. It's up to you.
I've only ever driven past Conwy without stopping, but the hills look big. I'd be going for the widest range I could get.0 -
Thanks for this, makes loads of sense. 45 years old and way more fragile than when I used to ride. Looks like the weapon of choice is a 2 x 10. Hopefully the right decision.The Rookie wrote:Don't forget that a 27 speed MTB actually only has about 13 discrete gears as 3-9 on the back in the granny ring are similar to 1-7 in the middle ring and then similar middle to big ring.
I rode for 3 years on 1x9 with just an 11-34, longer steeper climbs were the only issue (keeping the minimum speed for short hills was fine), recently gone to 1x10 with a 11-40t to rectify that and all is good.
That's for a slightly overweight and only moderately fit half centurion.0 -
2x11 is even better
on high end models mostly“I am a humanist, which means, in part, that I have tried to behave decently without expectations of rewards or punishments after I am dead.”
― Kurt Vonnegut0 -
I'm on 3x9 at the moment although I only use the middle ring, so it's more like 1x9. My new bike is 2x10. Time will tell if that works for me.0
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You're welcome to join my next 200km Audax if you like?cooldad wrote:Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
I might forgo the 1x11 on the Klein though and make it a 1x1
so consider a single speed as well 0 -
The Rookie wrote:
You're welcome to join my next 200km Audax if you like?cooldad wrote:
Sounds roadie, so against my religion.
Not to mention probably being older and lazier. I do however have the body of a middle aged Greek god.
Probably Dionysus.
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Parktools0 -
It's on Indian roads, so in many cases Cannock chase fire roads are smoother!
Won't be on a road bike but a mid width tyred Hybrid.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
It's all about the ratios, I'm in the process of going from 3x8 to 3x9, which is far too many gears with lots of overlap, but I pretty much never use the small front ring, I'm just doing it because it will give me more smooth range on the middle front ring, and it's a cheap upgrade, and I spend 95% of my time on the middle front ring.
I'll effectively be running a 2x9 with a redundant granny ring on the front.
2x10 might be a good bet if buying a new bike, 11 speed cassettes are quite pricey,.0 -
Both my bikes are 2x10 - not found any issues with climbing when I've been over the Peaks a couple of times.
Obviously not having a large outside ring up front limits you on flat out pace - but how often do you use it?
Not tried 1x yet, but when the time comes to give the HT a make over I plan on ditching the front mech._______________
Chris
Current FS: 2017 Nukeproof Mega 275
Current HT: 2017 Nukeproof Scout 275
Kids Carrera Blast Refurb/Upgrade
My Blog - Midlife MTB Mutterings
Previous FS: 2014 Nukeproof Mega TR 26'er0 -
Currently have bikes with 3X9, 2x10 and 1X11. Too much overlap for me even on the 2X10 now I'm riding 1X11.
My new bike is running 32 up front with an 11-46 cassette on the back. I was sceptical before actually trying it but I will never build up another off-road bike with more than 1 chain ring at the front. It's absolutely fine for the steepest of climbs, the only time I miss more ratios is actually at the top end where I can peddle out on fast road descents but then at that speed I find it's arguable whether it's actually worth peddling versus tucking right in and free-wheeling.
The advantages for me are no/minimal chain slap, no dropped chains (after 3 weeks, would lose the chain nearly every ride on the 2X10 at some point even with a clutch) and simpler shifting in technical situations. I find it just a better all-round solution on an off-road bike. I'm running an absolute black oval too which I find is another little advantage in technical situations.0 -
I find 2 x 10 works best for my xc riding as you get top end speed and can climb long steep trails with no problems. The chain has never come off and front / rear shifting is smooth.
I use an XT 24/38 chainset and 11-36 cassette.
If all i rode was trail centres 1x10 would likely be fine.0 -
Superb, thank you.pigglet wrote:Currently have bikes with 3X9, 2x10 and 1X11. Too much overlap for me even on the 2X10 now I'm riding 1X11.
My new bike is running 32 up front with an 11-46 cassette on the back. I was sceptical before actually trying it but I will never build up another off-road bike with more than 1 chain ring at the front. It's absolutely fine for the steepest of climbs, the only time I miss more ratios is actually at the top end where I can peddle out on fast road descents but then at that speed I find it's arguable whether it's actually worth peddling versus tucking right in and free-wheeling.
The advantages for me are no/minimal chain slap, no dropped chains (after 3 weeks, would lose the chain nearly every ride on the 2X10 at some point even with a clutch) and simpler shifting in technical situations. I find it just a better all-round solution on an off-road bike. I'm running an absolute black oval too which I find is another little advantage in technical situations.0 -
Appreciate the reply, makes loads of sense.DirkPitt74 wrote:Both my bikes are 2x10 - not found any issues with climbing when I've been over the Peaks a couple of times.
Obviously not having a large outside ring up front limits you on flat out pace - but how often do you use it?
Not tried 1x yet, but when the time comes to give the HT a make over I plan on ditching the front mech.0 -
As has been mentioned previously, personal preference - of my three current bikes, I have 1x, 2x and 3x systems! But all have slightly different uses, budgets and all work well (for me) in their fields.
Don't discount a 2x9 system mind - some of the cheaper 11 speed stuff is heavy and in my experience not the best feel and quality. 11-32 nine speed XT cassettes are nearly 300g lighter than an NX. Some old XT rapidfire shifters and mechs, maybe 36/22 rings and you have a good quality, slick shifting, wider ranging system than 1x11, and sometimes lighter.
Though no new bikes over a certain budget will have anything like this - and will not be xt.0 -
supersonic wrote:As has been mentioned previously, personal preference - of my three current bikes, I have 1x, 2x and 3x systems! But all have slightly different uses, budgets and all work well (for me) in their fields.
Don't discount a 2x9 system mind - some of the cheaper 11 speed stuff is heavy and in my experience not the best feel and quality. 11-32 nine speed XT cassettes are nearly 300g lighter than an NX. Some old XT rapidfire shifters and mechs, maybe 36/22 rings and you have a good quality, slick shifting, wider ranging system than 1x11, and sometimes lighter.
Though no new bikes over a certain budget will have anything like this - and will not be xt.
The smoothest changing bike i have is a mid 1990's orange hardtail with lx components. It is 3 x 8.0 -
A lot of people say the same - whilst there have been some advancements in tech, basic mechanical principles have not changed. Shimano continuely say things such as 'reduced lever effort' - so maybe a longer lever for less force. But as you know, you'll have to move that lever further. Next year it is 'shorter throw'! And then the feedback of the 'click' (snappy, soft, etc) - they just change it around for the next years marketing campaign.
But old LX... it just worked, no nonsense. Seemed to suit a lot of people, robust, good price, decent weight. Still have a mid 90s LX mech on my Zaskar LE!0 -
3x8 LX with an XT rear mech on my retro bike, lovely and smooth.
That said the Tiagra/XTR on my main MTB (1x10) is nice and slick, if anything the lever effort is too light and for my commuter the gripshift/X9 works great, I don't think I touched the indexing in 2 years/2900 miles.
I do think that making sure the setup and cabling is good is underrated, I see some riders complain and you see some very tight cable radius's and the reason is obvious.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Have been riding SRAM 1 x 11 since April and for me wont be going back to any other set up any time soon.
Was a bit worried about loss of granny ring but have found no problems at all on climbs.
Mine is 32 on the front and 10-42 on the front.
So much simpler in the mind, its hard to explain but it just feels right. Click one way for faster the other for slower.
Only advantages when I ride in a group so far and mates are changing to the same set up. 0 -
First ride out on the new bike today which is 2x10. I used half of them. I'll be fitting a single chainring as soon as funds allow.0
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Where about in Conway are the trails bare in mind I am only about an hour half away living in Wirral do you have trail maps I can look at please0
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2 1/2 year resurrection and epically off topic.....
Maybe a new thread? In the right forum?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
