Centrelock tool doesn't fit

ridgeway_swiss
ridgeway_swiss Posts: 146
edited December 2018 in Workshop
I have a standard Shimano cassette tool that i've used on several different Centrelock rotors and wheels but this evening i had some issues on a new wheel set when installing the rotors. Basically on the front wheel the recess inside the tool wasn't deep enough as the end of the axle held it off the locking nut. On the back similar but in that case there was too little space between the locking nut and the axle ie as i screwed it down the gap between the 2 parts became too small (bad description, sorry).

Do i have the correct tool or need to disassemble the axles ?

Comments

  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,695
    I assume these are through axle hubs? The immediate solution probably is to disassemble the axle, assuming you want to keep the same lockring and the axle can be rebuilt properly after fitting the rotor. Otherwise, Shimano do actually make a version of the lockring which tightens using a BB tool, which solves these clearance issues.

    https://www.huntbikewheels.com/products ... ough-axles
  • Yes these are TA's. Will take a look to see if i can take them apart and then rebuild them after fitting the rotors. I had hoped this would be a simple swap over.....
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    use a external notched lockring.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • use a external notched lockring.

    Is that different to what "whyamihere" posted above ?
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,695
    use a external notched lockring.

    Is that different to what "whyamihere" posted above ?
    It's the same thing.
  • whyamihere wrote:
    use a external notched lockring.

    Is that different to what "whyamihere" posted above ?
    It's the same thing.

    Cheers, off to my LBS to see if he either has one i can buy (tool and nut) or if he's willing to swap the nuts and torque them up. Thanks
  • skooter
    skooter Posts: 264
    The bottom bracket spanner has a nylon inner which fits the BB but if you remove it it should fit you centre lock brake .
  • Checked at my LBS (Shimano service centre) and he didn't have any of the external centre lock nuts (part SM - HB20) but he ordered some in for me, approx £5 each. He has a Shimano tool that fits so he'll let me borrow that.

    Until then i modified my internal ones to take a 32mm spanner :D

    IMG-0239.jpg

    IMG-0241.jpg

    IMG-0242.jpg

    Nothing that 5mins on the milling machine couldn't handle :wink:
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I don't have a milling machine, but I'm pinching your idea of sitting a wheel on top of a plastic bin to work on it :D
  • keef66 wrote:
    I don't have a milling machine, but I'm pinching your idea of sitting a wheel on top of a plastic bin to work on it :D

    The washing basket is a critical component in any cyclists workshop :lol:
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    Now that’s quality. Nice job milling your own
  • edward.s
    edward.s Posts: 219
    Extra points for the Stahlwille spanner too. Mmmm, nice.
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    edward.s wrote:
    Extra points for the Stahlwille spanner too. Mmmm, nice.
    Tool porn indeed
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Sorry but the mighty King Dick's still rock......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Here:

    Spanners and sockets are Stahwille
    Screwdrivers and allen keys are PB
    Pliers and cutters are Knipex

    As an engineer i judge field and service technicians by their tool box so i have to tow the line :D
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,252
    The Rookie wrote:
    Sorry but the mighty King Dick's still rock......
    Much as I would like to agree with you the word 'still' shouldn't be in there. Unfortunately they are no longer a patch on what they once were. I've got some old King Dicks and they are truly lovely, but the new stuff isn't up to much considering the price they charge.
  • edward.s
    edward.s Posts: 219
    My stuff is mostly:

    Wera drivers and hex/star keys
    Bondhus T-handles
    Stalhwille, Wera, old Britool and some Halfords Pro (which are surprisingly nice) for spanners
    Knipex for cutters and pliers.

    Favorite tool is the ubiquitous (in the UK) 'N°2 Thor' hide/copper mallet :-)

    I work in Medicine regulation so these are really just for home use, but I do try and buy quality as I've been caught with the 'buy cheap, buy twice' route before.
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    Sounds a bit like me Edward.

    Hex and torx bits Wera. Hexplus is simply better, more secure and doesnt damage things.
    Hex sets Beta (sliding T) , and bondhus T Handles Both very good. The Beta tools are Excellent but very expensive.
    Ratchets and torque wrenches Wera. Ive got some others in the cabinet but i like the shape of the Wera ones.
    sockets are a mix of Wera, Old Halford Pro ones which i got a million years ago as i was starting out, Snap-on and Facom. I think the Facom are far better than the snap on ones. The Wera ones arent bad (the ratchets are ace especially the 1/4 speed-handle.
    Screwdrivers and similar Wera and a vessel jis for derraileur and similar screws
    Pliers and cutters Knipex. Again very expensive but well made work very well.
    Spanners Facom (and some really good old Halfords professional ones that seem to battle on despite my best attempts to find out exactly what they can put up with)

    Hammers, loads of old crap.


    If I have a job thats super dirty or looks like i might get gorilla on something i use halfords stuff on it. I wont cry as much if it breaks and i can generally expect to replace it. (if i cant its no biggy is the quality of the advanced range as good as the old Professional range?)

    Bike specific various presses Whellsmfring
    some abbeybiketools and a mish mash of stuff collected over the years filling in the specific bits.

    I am a tool tart. and have chucked loads of stuff as ive settled on products that work and last the course.