Spare wheel for studded tyre
schemieradge
Posts: 36
Every year I get some days in the winter when I think I really *should* have studded tyres on but never do because I can't be bothered with the hassle of switching tyres when it generally is only necessary for a day or two.
One thing which might make me more inclined to switch is if I had a front wheel ready to go fitted with studs, but I'm not entirely sure how to ensure the wheel would be interchangeable without faffing with the disc brake calipers. I really need it to be a 30 second job otherwise I'll never do it.
Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what sort of wheel and rotor would fit the bill?
I've got a 2018 Croix de Fer 20 which, according to the specs has:
Jalco SR240D 19mm rims
KT K-08F 6 bolt hub
TRP HY-RD brakes
160mm TR160 rotors
I want to fit Schwalbe Winter 700x30 tyres.
Do I just need to look for any cheap 700c 6 bolt disc front wheel, with 15/17/19mm rims, another 160mm rotor, and I should be good to go? Or is there more to take into account?
One thing which might make me more inclined to switch is if I had a front wheel ready to go fitted with studs, but I'm not entirely sure how to ensure the wheel would be interchangeable without faffing with the disc brake calipers. I really need it to be a 30 second job otherwise I'll never do it.
Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what sort of wheel and rotor would fit the bill?
I've got a 2018 Croix de Fer 20 which, according to the specs has:
Jalco SR240D 19mm rims
KT K-08F 6 bolt hub
TRP HY-RD brakes
160mm TR160 rotors
I want to fit Schwalbe Winter 700x30 tyres.
Do I just need to look for any cheap 700c 6 bolt disc front wheel, with 15/17/19mm rims, another 160mm rotor, and I should be good to go? Or is there more to take into account?
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schemieradge wrote:Every year I get some days in the winter when I think I really *should* have studded tyres on but never do because I can't be bothered with the hassle of switching tyres when it generally is only necessary for a day or two.
One thing which might make me more inclined to switch is if I had a front wheel ready to go fitted with studs, but I'm not entirely sure how to ensure the wheel would be interchangeable without faffing with the disc brake calipers. I really need it to be a 30 second job otherwise I'll never do it.
Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what sort of wheel and rotor would fit the bill?
I've got a 2018 Croix de Fer 20 which, according to the specs has:
Jalco SR240D 19mm rims
KT K-08F 6 bolt hub
TRP HY-RD brakes
160mm TR160 rotors
I want to fit Schwalbe Winter 700x30 tyres.
Do I just need to look for any cheap 700c 6 bolt disc front wheel, with 15/17/19mm rims, another 160mm rotor, and I should be good to go? Or is there more to take into account?
just buy exactly what you have on at the moment, fit the tyre and you are good to go.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Glad this forum is so welcoming to the technically challenged...
I was told swapping disc wheels almost always leading to pads rubbing and means you have to adjust the calipers. Take it that's not the case from the sarcy comments?
Unfortunately I can't buy the same as I have at the moment since it appears to be made by Genesis who don't sell the wheels separately... But if I'm mistaken feel free to let me know.0 -
Brake caliper alignment is actually really easy with those brakes if you change wheel.
Process is:
1. Take off first wheel.
2. Loosen brake caliper bolts a couple of turns - enough that you can move the caliper side to side with your hand freely.
3. Put in the second wheel, taking care to get the disk inbetween the pads of the caliper, tighten up quick release/thru bolt to secure wheel in place.
4. Squeeze brake lever. Caliper will centre itself from the braking force.
5. While continuing to squeeze brake lever, tighten the brake caliper bolts.
6. Lift the bike off the ground and spin the replacement wheel - it might rub a little bit but this will usually sort itself out over the course of your ride.
7. If the brake rubs a lot, you might need to try again, sometimes a little nudge to the position will do the trick if you can't get it right by just squeezing the brakes. Most of the time you won't need to try again though.
Note (to others) that this process won't work if you are using cable pull brakes with static pads, eg avid bb5 bb7 etc - you need to move in the static pad first/do the business card trick.
Either way it's a five minute job tops.0 -
schemieradge wrote:Glad this forum is so welcoming to the technically challenged...
I was told swapping disc wheels almost always leading to pads rubbing and means you have to adjust the calipers. Take it that's not the case from the sarcy comments?
Unfortunately I can't buy the same as I have at the moment since it appears to be made by Genesis who don't sell the wheels separately... But if I'm mistaken feel free to let me know.
Well since you have cash to burn just take it to a lbs if you really are so technically challenged.
I dont believe this thread, the indications are its a wind up.0 -
If disc brakes rub what happens in pro cycling when they change a flat tyre ?0
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cougie wrote:If disc brakes rub what happens in pro cycling when they change a flat tyre ?
they get loads of newbs tweeting they should have tubeless lololol0 -
Thanks for the very helpful reply... !
(The others maybe could do with stepping away from the internet for a bit)TimothyW wrote:Brake caliper alignment is actually really easy with those brakes if you change wheel.
Process is:
1. Take off first wheel.
2. Loosen brake caliper bolts a couple of turns - enough that you can move the caliper side to side with your hand freely.
3. Put in the second wheel, taking care to get the disk inbetween the pads of the caliper, tighten up quick release/thru bolt to secure wheel in place.
4. Squeeze brake lever. Caliper will centre itself from the braking force.
5. While continuing to squeeze brake lever, tighten the brake caliper bolts.
6. Lift the bike off the ground and spin the replacement wheel - it might rub a little bit but this will usually sort itself out over the course of your ride.
7. If the brake rubs a lot, you might need to try again, sometimes a little nudge to the position will do the trick if you can't get it right by just squeezing the brakes. Most of the time you won't need to try again though.
Note (to others) that this process won't work if you are using cable pull brakes with static pads, eg avid bb5 bb7 etc - you need to move in the static pad first/do the business card trick.
Either way it's a five minute job tops.0 -
so he knows exactly what to do he just wants some love from the internet.0
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I don't find it a big problem. Disc rotors will be misaligned by fractions of a millimeter. You can probably live with a caliper slightly misaligned, bearing in mind if you are using studded tyres, you are probably too slow to need brakes in anger anyway...left the forum March 20230
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i just can't see what the prblem with buying the same as what he has got already and works fine and that he is happy and using that.
or am i missing something?
#missingthreadsPostby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
I would love to do that - that's what I went to do - but genuinely have no idea how to go about it.
Where online could I buy a wheel the same as is on a 2018 CdF?Matthewfalle wrote:i just can't see what the prblem with buying the same as what he has got already and works fine and that he is happy and using that.
or am i missing something?
#missingthreads0 -
I don't think you can. I think Genesis gets wheels built to spec (and cost) that aren't available on retail channels.
The closest you could get would probably be to find the same hub somewhere and get someone to build it up for you.
To be honest though, it wouldn't be worth the effort - just follow the method I've given you above.
If you're lucky you might discover that the rotor placement is identical between the two wheels anyhow.
It is a tricky business though - part of the reason thru axle exists is because with quick release disc wheels, the small differences in where the wheel sits when you clamp it mean you sometimes have to adjust the caliper position even when putting the same wheel back in a frame (or release the QR and try clamping it again....)0 -
schemieradge wrote:I would love to do that - that's what I went to do - but genuinely have no idea how to go about it.
Where online could I buy a wheel the same as is on a 2018 CdF?Matthewfalle wrote:i just can't see what the prblem with buying the same as what he has got already and works fine and that he is happy and using that.
or am i missing something?
#missingthreads
if google doesn't come up with anything i would drop them a line and see what they say.
https://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikesPostby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Planet X do a pair of disc wheels for £70. They are OK for the price and will certainly be fine for what you want. If you find a cheap cassette then you could even change the rear wheel too.
A tiny bit of disc rub for the two days a year you use them won't kill you, and the TRP Hy//Rds seem to have a reasonable amount of pad clearance anyway.0 -
Cheers..... These?
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPGIROEQ/ ... c-wheelset
Sounds like a great shout.. thanksedward.s wrote:Planet X do a pair of disc wheels for £70. They are OK for the price and will certainly be fine for what you want. If you find a cheap cassette then you could even change the rear wheel too.
A tiny bit of disc rub for the two days a year you use them won't kill you, and the TRP Hy//Rds seem to have a reasonable amount of pad clearance anyway.0 -
You could buy/make thin shims to adjust the rotor position to mimic your normal wheels if rub does present a problem.FFS! Harden up and grow a pair0
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heres an idea. change your tyre over.
Sorted.
#firstworldproblem0 -
Well, actually I've dedicated my cross bike to studded tyre usage this winter (I have a proper road disc bike now for the rest of the time).Vino'sGhost wrote:heres an idea. change your tyre over.
Sorted.
#firstworldproblem
You need another bike in short.
#firstworldsolution0 -
Spot on.. it's the answer. I'll start with the front wheel and build it back from there.TimothyW wrote:
You need another bike in short.
#firstworldsolution0 -
schemieradge wrote:Cheers..... These?
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPGIROEQ/ ... c-wheelset
Sounds like a great shout.. thanksedward.s wrote:Planet X do a pair of disc wheels for £70. They are OK for the price and will certainly be fine for what you want. If you find a cheap cassette then you could even change the rear wheel too.
A tiny bit of disc rub for the two days a year you use them won't kill you, and the TRP Hy//Rds seem to have a reasonable amount of pad clearance anyway.
Yep, those. They are better quality than you'd expect for the price and would certainly do the job. I have a pair I use with 40mm knobblies fitted that I slap on the Genesis for the 2 days a year my son decides he's Hans Rey and we go out in the woods. I'm vain so i peeled the decals off mine as I thought they were a bit much. They aren't super-light and I suspect they won't be super long lasting, but for my application (and yours I suspect) that won't matter.0
