Snapped b-tension

marcarm
marcarm Posts: 134
edited September 2018 in MTB workshop & tech
I was installing a new btension screw with extra length earlier after installing a new larger cassette.

I think it must have been made of cheese as even using good quality allen key, the head rounded leaving me unable to get any purchase with it.

Left with it being stuck, I tried to use pliers to get enough grip on it, but it wasn't moving, and then before I knew it, it had snapped quite flush with the mech.

Any ideas for how I can get it out? Drill it? Or do I have to face up to the fact I have goosed my mech and look for a new one?

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Can't you get at the other end of the screw?
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  • marcarm
    marcarm Posts: 134
    Possibly, not really looked.

    What would be the purpose of that?? There is no socket for an allen key that end, it's just flat.

    I suppose I could try drilling but I don't want to ruin the threads
  • marcarm
    marcarm Posts: 134
    I'm not sure if I can use the mech with my new cassette, some sources say yes and some say no, some say with a goatlink, so if i was to buy a goatlink I may as well get a new mech which can handle the cassette out of the box
  • marcarm wrote:
    I'm not sure if I can use the mech with my new cassette, some sources say yes and some say no, some say with a goatlink, so if i was to buy a goatlink I may as well get a new mech which can handle the cassette out of the box

    Beg borrow or steal a Dremmel multi tool, cut a groove into the exposed screw, take it out with a small screwdriver ( the sort you get for glasses and such like)
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    marcarm wrote:
    and then before I knew it, it had snapped quite flush with the mech.
    Beg borrow or steal a Dremmel multi tool, cut a groove into the exposed screw, take it out with a small screwdriver ( the sort you get for glasses and such like)

    One day, you might actually read a thread before replying...
  • marcarm
    marcarm Posts: 134
    s-l1600.jpg

    Best pic I can take with my phone, no way I can get a dremel in there, plus I don't have one so instead of buying one of those I could just get a new compatible mech instead.
  • Imposter wrote:
    marcarm wrote:
    and then before I knew it, it had snapped quite flush with the mech.
    Beg borrow or steal a Dremmel multi tool, cut a groove into the exposed screw, take it out with a small screwdriver ( the sort you get for glasses and such like)

    One day, you might actually read a thread before replying...

    One bit will be exposed. Screw it from the exposed bit.
  • marcarm wrote:
    s-l1600.jpg

    Best pic I can take with my phone, no way I can get a dremel in there, plus I don't have one so instead of buying one of those I could just get a new compatible mech instead.
    What about on the hanger side, is there no exposed bit of the screw, hanger side?
  • marcarm
    marcarm Posts: 134
    No, it is about 3mm short of the exit of the hole
  • marcarm
    marcarm Posts: 134
    I've just ordered a new mech, purely because I don't think this one is compatible with my cassette anyway, so this gives me the impetus to just get a new one and fit that to save all the faffing around
  • marcarm wrote:
    I've just ordered a new mech, purely because I don't think this one is compatible with my cassette anyway, so this gives me the impetus to just get a new one and fit that to save all the faffing around

    This was never a discussion about how to remove the B screw.

    You just wanted a new mech.

    'Fess up. :lol:
    "Ride, crash, replace"
  • marcarm
    marcarm Posts: 134
    Well, if I could have gotten away with not changing the mech I would have loved to, I've spent enough on that bike recently but thankfully I think I'm done with it now.

    Just got to get out and ride it