new chain already strecth?

Nilsemann
Nilsemann Posts: 31
edited September 2018 in Workshop
I changed the chain on my roadbike 27.7... 11-speed KMC.. right length.
I have used a Topeak-checker the last years on my bikes, but now i tried out the Unior.
As seen on the pictures... the unior indicates 0,5-stretch.. the Topeak indicates that is good.

Same on my CX wih 11-speed KMC as well.

Roadbike has been riding aprox 800 km since the chaninchange i end og july.
Mid july I changed on my CX.. an meen riding aprox 600 km.

(and a new MTB... wich onky has been going about 300 km... (10-speed).. is the same with Uinor-tool).

I ride with the chain in good position. big front/middle->smallest back.... and vise-versa.. a little miss now and then... but not for many meters.

https://ibb.co/iNaQXp


I have also messured with tape-messure... it was aprox 30 cm over 12-links.
https://ibb.co/nzajQ9

Comments

  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    The tool isn't dropping all the way into the chain so it isn't 0.5% worn. Unless you're lifting it up so we can read the markings?

    Also it's best if you don't include the quick-link in the section of chain you're measuring.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Measuring with a tape measure is going to be less accurate than any chain tool. A decent ruler and a steady hand maybe. Approx 30cm is no use. An imperial ruler is easier because a new chain should measure exactly 12 inches for 12 full links.
  • keef66 wrote:
    Measuring with a tape measure is going to be less accurate than any chain tool. A decent ruler and a steady hand maybe. Approx 30cm is no use. An imperial ruler is easier because a new chain should measure exactly 12 inches for 12 full links.

    In another forum... a guy said that i shoud use meter-messure...
    Since not alle messure-tools are presise.

    And I have two tools... one says thats its ok, the other not..

    It's almost touching the 0,5-strectch mark
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I think you misunderstand the tool. It will only drop completely into the chain if it's >0.5% worn.

    It's not a measuring device, it's a quick and easy go / no go type of thing. The markings only indicate which side is which.

    0.5% is meant to be a warning, 0.75% is definitely time to replace.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    And for the avoidance of doubt, all your photos show that your chains are perfectly OK.

    Only when the thing drops completely into the chain is it telling you it's worn. I have the Park Tool one which is exactly the same.

    There's lots of debate about whether or not these things exaggerate chain wear (they do a tiny bit) but they make it very clean, quick and easy to check, especially for an old bugger like me with poor eyesight and a poorly lit garage...
  • Thanks.

    If I had only used the Topeak I would not have been worried. But I felt the uinor-tool dropped too much down.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OFi_gO6xqI

    Although there's a Unior Youtube vid that appears to contradict me!
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    keef66 wrote:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OFi_gO6xqI

    Although there's a Unior Youtube vid that appears to contradict me!

    No keef you were right first time, the pictures the op showed show a wear level of between .2 and .5%
  • So i was right also. I have manage to stretch the chain in one month?
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    Nilsemann wrote:
    So i was right also. I have manage to stretch the chain in one month?
    It stretches every time you use it so yes you’ve stretched it a little.

    The rate of wear seems to be affected massively by the amount of crud on it and the roads but I have noticed 11 speed chains seem to last a lot less than 10 speed . It’s been a few years since I rode 9 or 8 speed so I can’t remember that or earlier. I change between 5and 7% to save my cassette.
  • But shoud I go back to Shimano the next time i change?

    and i can ride with my chain till the tool drops down completly..
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    To be pedantic, chains don't stretch, the rollers wear.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    a few years ago when I suggested a chain measuring tool I was told by everyone use a ruler it the best way. I still use a tool not a ruler. In fact chain measuring threads go quite nasty. what changed this time
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Just for fun i took my unior-tool and checked s chain on new bike in a shop... and it was excactly like on my chain. So in my head I have nothing to be worried about.
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    a few years ago when I suggested a chain measuring tool I was told by everyone use a ruler it the best way. I still use a tool not a ruler. In fact chain measuring threads go quite nasty. what changed this time

    They'll all be bickering over something arbitrarily trivial in another thread ;)
    Nilsemann wrote:
    Just for fun i took my unior-tool and checked s chain on new bike in a shop... and it was excactly like on my chain. So in my head I have nothing to be worried about.

    Good to hear! ;)
    Current:
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    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    a few years ago when I suggested a chain measuring tool I was told by everyone use a ruler it the best way. I still use a tool not a ruler. In fact chain measuring threads go quite nasty. what changed this time

    Never understood that myself. Trying to hold the end of a ruler bang on in the middle of one pin and then accurately read the measurement a foot away. Doubly difficult in a gloomy garage and with 60 year old eyes / varifocals and a less than spotless chain. Far easier / quicker / cleaner to occasionally stick the tool into the chain and see if it drops in.

    OK, so the tool is measuring a tiny amount due to roller wear, but

    a) maybe they factor that in when making the tool so it is still accurately measuring 0.5% / 0.75% elongation?

    b) if the rollers are significantly worn then in all probability so are the pins
  • a few years ago when I suggested a chain measuring tool I was told by everyone use a ruler it the best way. I still use a tool not a ruler. In fact chain measuring threads go quite nasty. what changed this time


    Still the best way :) actually a calibrated vernier and 3 sample measurements from different parts of the chain and an adjustment for temperature and air moisture level is the only way :lol::lol:
  • More confuesd in my messed up brain. 
    Now I have been riding for a while. The checker stil does not drop straight in when messuring. I have finaly got hold of a imperial ruler.... (not a steel... a plastic... but I hold the start/0-point at the pin-center)
    ​​​​​​​
    I have messured in two ways. 
    From center of a pin at the start of on one link, and at the center of the last pin on a link... counted 12 links.... and come to about 11,5 ". 
    What is it that I dont understand, and what do i do wrong. 

    I can try to take pictures. 
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If it's measuring 11.5" you've only counted 11 1/2 links. The pins are half an inch apart. A link consists of a pair of inner plates and a pair of outer plates.

    So if you're measuring 12 links your ruler will be held against 12 inner plates, 12 outer, and 13 pins. And I'm guessing the distance from the centre of pin 1 to the centre of pin 13 will be 12"
  • keef66 wrote:
    If it's measuring 11.5" you've only counted 11 1/2 links. The pins are half an inch apart. A link consists of a pair of inner plates and a pair of outer plates.

    So if you're measuring 12 links your ruler will be held against 12 inner plates, 12 outer, and 13 pins. And I'm guessing the distance from the centre of pin 1 to the centre of pin 13 will be 12"

    center to center, 13-pins, 12"... so then its ok i guess.