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Cheap vs Expensive sh*t

zest28zest28 Posts: 317
edited August 2018 in Road general
It looks like every 6 months, I break something on my off road racing bike. But isn't exactly equipped with the latest and the greatest components. So I'm thinking of upgrading my group set to something high-end if it is more durable. (Basically I want to go into Beast mode every day without having to worry about wearing sh*t out every 6 months )

Are high-end group sets far more durable than cheap group sets? (I really don't care about any additional performance gains as I didn't buy this bike for speed).

Posts

  • diamonddogdiamonddog Posts: 3,397
    IME high end is quite often less durable than entry level from the same manufacturer.
  • zest28zest28 Posts: 317
    I see. Guess I will bring it in for repair again today and claim for warranty on the parts that need to be replaced rather than upgrading.
  • sh3psh3p Posts: 98
    Out of curiosity what parts are you breaking/wearing out in 6 months and what sort of mileage ?
  • jgsijgsi Posts: 5,027
    Beast mode?
    Is this down to ASDA fo tea bags as well?
    I think it's best to just accept, sh it will just break, whatever.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    mf reckons op may be a masher and his beast mode is actually masher mode

    #operatorerror
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • cookeeemonstercookeeemonster Posts: 1,976
    Try mid range. Similar performance to higher end with a small weight penalty. Might be more durable depending on what part?

    See how you go
  • cougiecougie Posts: 22,512
    What are you breaking ?
  • jgsijgsi Posts: 5,027
    Our hearts if he puts Campagnolo on it.
  • PhilipPirripPhilipPirrip Posts: 616
    If things are breaking/wearing out in 6 months it may be that you're abusing or not maintaining them rather than the durability of the parts and buying more expensive parts would just be a waste of money.

    What is this 'off road racing bike' and what parts are breaking/wearing out?
  • ugo.santaluciaugo.santalucia Posts: 25,701
    race type equipment is not designed to be abused... the derailleur concept is light but not very robust... there is not much difference across the range, maybe MTBike equipment is a bit more solid, but not much... you drop the bike, you might still write off a derailleur

    If you are looking for solid and maintenance free, then something like "pinion" might be the answer... not a cheap route though
    http://whosatthewheel.com
  • CitizenLeeCitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    If it's an off road bike can you fit MTB parts like Saint, Zee, SLX or XT? You're unlikely to break those just by riding your bike, although lack of care and maintenance will still kill them just like anything else.
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • crescentcrescent Posts: 1,088
    Isn’t the general rule - strong, light, cheap, pick any 2 from 3.
    Ribble Gran Fondo
    Bianchi Impulso
    BMC Teammachine

    “When I see an adult on a bicycle, I do not despair for the future of the human race. “ ~H.G. Wells
    Edit - "Unless it's a BMX"
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    crescent wrote:
    Isn’t the general rule - strong, light, cheap, pick any 2 from 3.

    only if you buy rubbish

    #don'tbuyrubbish
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • akhakh Posts: 160
    I'm skeptical that expensive components are better value for money from a pure durability point of view. A Dura Ace derailleur would need to last 2-3 times as long as a 105 one just to be cost neutral.

    If you're braking components through collisions or subjecting them to harsh conditions (sand, grit, etc.), you might as well buy the cheapest ones that perform acceptably.
  • crescentcrescent Posts: 1,088
    Matthewfalle wrote:
    crescent wrote:
    Isn’t the general rule - strong, light, cheap, pick any 2 from 3.

    only if you buy rubbish

    #don'tbuyrubbish

    Is there a component that ticks all 3 boxes then?
    Ribble Gran Fondo
    Bianchi Impulso
    BMC Teammachine

    “When I see an adult on a bicycle, I do not despair for the future of the human race. “ ~H.G. Wells
    Edit - "Unless it's a BMX"
  • pblakeneypblakeney Posts: 14,187
    crescent wrote:
    Matthewfalle wrote:
    crescent wrote:
    Isn’t the general rule - strong, light, cheap, pick any 2 from 3.

    only if you buy rubbish

    #don'tbuyrubbish

    Is there a component that ticks all 3 boxes then?
    Quality components in a sale.
    #sorted
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • fenixfenix Posts: 5,437
    crescent wrote:
    Matthewfalle wrote:
    crescent wrote:
    Isn’t the general rule - strong, light, cheap, pick any 2 from 3.

    only if you buy rubbish

    #don'tbuyrubbish

    Is there a component that ticks all 3 boxes then?

    Probably something like 105 is going to be the best value - but obviously its not going to be the lightest.
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