How many extra chain links for new cassette ?

sibike
sibike Posts: 257
edited June 2018 in Workshop
I am probably going to replace my cassette from an 11-28 to a 11-32 to help the knees and hopefully get up climbs easier . I will also be replacing the rear derailleur and chain but have no idea how to work out how many extra links are needed . My front chainrings are 52/36T if that helps . Below are the links to my shopping list which are hopefully what I need ( other retailers are available ) :
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... prod116506

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... prod116489

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/kmc- ... prod132778

If you think i'm wasting my money let me know or if you have gone down this route with success also let me know .
many thanks …..

Comments

  • milemuncher1
    milemuncher1 Posts: 1,472
    sibike wrote:
    I am probably going to replace my cassette from an 11-28 to a 11-32 to help the knees and hopefully get up climbs easier . I will also be replacing the rear derailleur and chain but have no idea how to work out how many extra links are needed . My front chainrings are 52/36T if that helps . Below are the links to my shopping list which are hopefully what I need ( other retailers are available ) :
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... prod116506

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... prod116489

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/kmc- ... prod132778

    If you think i'm wasting my money let me know or if you have gone down this route with success also let me know .
    many thanks …..

    With a 52-36 semi compact up front, and an 11-32 cassette, you’ll be close to the limit as far as capacity and difference is concerned, but not at the limit, of a medium cage rear mech. The chain whip will be the bigger issue, unless you’re running about 118 links. If the top jockey wheel is getting too close to the big sprocket, and you can’t move it away sufficiently by turning the angle of dangle ‘b screw’ clockwise, you can lower the cage and pulleys using an extender like this.
    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/road link

    rle7Hid.jpg

    They think it won’t be necessary though.
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    I've always used this neat calculator and it's never let me down

    http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/b ... hcalc.html

    A quick check of differences between a 52/28 and a 52/32 suggests that you will need one extra link over your existing chain length
  • sibike
    sibike Posts: 257
    thank you
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Or measure it properly once you've fitted the new cassette. Measure round big/big excluding the mech plus a link.
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  • sibike
    sibike Posts: 257
    cooldad wrote:
    Or measure it properly once you've fitted the new cassette. Measure round big/big excluding the mech plus a link.
    Is that the way a bike shop would it ?
  • ridgerider
    ridgerider Posts: 2,851
    There's no magic to this. I follow the rule that you don't want the rear mech to self destruct when you select small cog at front and small at rear (for whatever reason!). Feed the chain round these cogs and then chose the length of chain that leaves a gap the thickness of a finger between the underside of the upper rear mech jockey wheel and the chain below as it travels forward to the chainset. That gives you the longest length chain you should be running with.
    Half man, Half bike

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