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Anthem 2 2017 Chain Line

FattyHardtailFattyHardtail Posts: 6
edited June 2018 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all, I have an Anthem 2 purchased 1 year ago and have made some mods, mainly new wheels and new 34T chain ring.
I have never really been happy with a rubbing sound from the 1x11 drive chain since I bought it (SLX M7000). After approx 6 months the chain snapped on the trail and on inspection there where approx 9 links with cracks, I only average around 30kms a week so this seemed excessive to me and I have never had a issue on other bikes I've owned (i.e not down to gear crunching!!)
I have straightened the hanger, tuned the indexing, set the l,h and b settings and it all seems to work until:
1) a long ride in wet conditions
2) I put down the power after several kms riding.
Then i can hear it grinding again.
Is it possible that the Anthem chainline is just off? I can't find any info to suggest there is a fundamental issue with it but maybe someone here knows something I don't.
I am now considering getting a oneup chainring so I can pull the chainline in a mm or so.
Chainline is 53mm which is on the high side of ok for boost?
Any advise appreciated!


  • steve_sordysteve_sordy Posts: 1,927
    First thing of note is that we all hear our bike grinding when riding in wet and mucky weather. I have never assumed it was the chain line that was off. It has always been the discs and / or the chain after the lube has been washed off. Do you use a "wet" lube, as opposed to just any old lube. Wet lubes are designed to resist wash-off in wet conditions.

    But assuming you are correct about the chain line:
    Swap the BB spacers from one side to the other until the chain ring is in line with the middle gear on the cassette. I would even be prepared to put spacers (ie washers) under the chain ring if that was necessary.

    But before that, you need a method of checking that the chain line is correct or not. I use a one metre wooden ruler that I have had for decades. It has the virtues of being flat, thin and straight. Remove or push aside the chain and place it against one face of the chain ring. Then see where the other end of the ruler is when above the cassette. The ruler is one side of the chain ring, so the other end of the ruler should be to one side of the middle gear on the cassette. If it isn't then the chain line needs adjusting. It works for me.

    What is important is the results though, so be prepared to experiment once you have ridden the bike.
  • 02GF7402GF74 Posts: 1,294
    As above use a straight edge to see where on the cassette it lines up. I use a piece of aluminium angle.
  • Thanks guys, I live in Australia so wet is not the norm, normally I use a dry lube. Maybe I need to invest in some wet lube for the 2 wet days a year!
    I'll try the trick with the ruler and report back!
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    edited June 2018
    Dry and Wet lube are not their given purpose (although may work best for the conditions being that!) it's how they work. I use wax based dry lube all year round, I just apply more and more often in the wet.
  • swod1swod1 Posts: 1,639
    Guess your using a shimano chain on the bike, if so fit a quick link in it or swap the chain to a kmc xl in 11spd. i'm a heavy rider and never broke a kmc chain but have shimano due to the silly rivet pin thing.

    with the chainline are you using a boost specific chain ring? otherwise you might need to play about with 1mm washers to correct the chain line or even take the drive side spacer off and fit it on the other side etc.
  • steve_sordysteve_sordy Posts: 1,927
    Dry and Wet lube are not their given purpose (although may work best for the conditions being that!) it's how they work. I use wax based dry lube all year round, I just apply more and more often in the wet.

    I've never heard that definition before of the difference between wet and dry lubes.

    Wet lube is thicker, stickier and resists wash-off by rain and puddles. If you leave too much on the outside of the chain, it can collect trail cr4p like a good 'un and you can end up with a black chain.

    Dry lube has solvents in it that help the wax in the lube to penetrate the chain components. The solvent than evaporates to leave a dry finish. It is great in the dry because unlike wet lube, it sheds dust and other trail debris. But it is not particularly good at resisting wash off.

    Take into account that the place for both lubes is inside the chain (under the rollers and between the links), NOT on the outside of the chain.

    Note: Never use a dry lube to lubricate your stanchions (dropper, fork, shock), the solvent in the lube is bad news. Specialist stanchion lube or wet lube only.
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