Sram eTap Vs Di2 Adjustments?
I'm looking into upgrading my Mason to either eTap or Di2 but a little unsure which to go for at the moment.
I really like the looks of the eTap due to the clean install with no cables or junction boxes to worry about but at the same time I quite like the flexibility of the Di2 in being able to run it with MTB derrailleurs along with customising the shifting etc through the app. Tough choice!
Back to the main question though...
I often switch between two wheelsets and sometimes I need to tweak the rear mech to get the shifting spot on.
With eTap or Di2, are they both fairly quick and easy to make minor adjustments to the shifting?
I really like the looks of the eTap due to the clean install with no cables or junction boxes to worry about but at the same time I quite like the flexibility of the Di2 in being able to run it with MTB derrailleurs along with customising the shifting etc through the app. Tough choice!
Back to the main question though...
I often switch between two wheelsets and sometimes I need to tweak the rear mech to get the shifting spot on.
With eTap or Di2, are they both fairly quick and easy to make minor adjustments to the shifting?
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with etap you do it using a small button located on each shifter, it's simple enough
both systems are fine, i think the etap wifli rear mech is rated for up to 32t if you want a lower gear
fwiw i looked at both, lack of wires wins it for me, fitted etap march 2016, i click, it shifts, really happy with itmy bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny0 -
I have eTap on my Mason - love it, it's done 1000 miles from new, haven't touched any adjustment in that time, still runs perfectly. I'm running WiFli version with the new Ultegra 11-34, runs fine.0
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I've got eTap and adjustment is simple - you just hold the little button in the shifter whilst shifting and it adjusts the shift by 0.3mm or something similar.
Use the appropriate side shifter for the adjustment you want, it takes seconds to do any tweaks.0 -
.... while you are riding along. It’s great for that.spinndrift wrote:I've got eTap and adjustment is simple - you just hold the little button in the shifter whilst shifting and it adjusts the shift by 0.3mm or something similar.
Use the appropriate side shifter for the adjustment you want, it takes seconds to do any tweaks.0 -
Just for another view ..have the di2 8050 also very easy to adjust, press a button and use the shifters to adjust as required shifting up/down small increments.
I was torn between the 2 systems but the ability to change what does what, the syncshifting and controling the pages on the garmin won it for me. + it was about £250 less0 -
I'm firmly from a SRAM background and was determined I'd go eTap when I upgraded to electronic. I actually went for R8050 Di2 due mostly to the additional features of it over eTap. The hidden shifter buttons being one and the ability to use synchro shifting of the front with my dodgy left arm. Wiring it all wasn't difficult even with threading the cable through a set of carbon 3T Aeronova bars for the bar end control unit.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0
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Nino Schurter has been seen riding MTB etap in races, so it is presumably in the pipeline, but no details on compatibility with road shifters or date of availability.Crossed wrote:I'm looking into upgrading my Mason to either eTap or Di2 but a little unsure which to go for at the moment.
I really like the looks of the eTap due to the clean install with no cables or junction boxes to worry about but at the same time I quite like the flexibility of the Di2 in being able to run it with MTB derrailleurs along with customising the shifting etc through the app. Tough choice!
p.s. With Di2, if you want to use a Di2 MTB rear derailleur, and are using two front chainrings, then you need to use a Di2 MTB front derailleur as well. You can't mix Di2 MTB RD with Di2 road FD, which can cause front shifting issues if trying to use an MTB FD with road size chainrings. Also, if you want synchro shifting to work then you need the MT junction box, not the EW junction box.0 -
Nick Payne wrote:
Nino Schurter has been seen riding MTB etap in races, so it is presumably in the pipeline, but no details on compatibility with road shifters or date of availability.Crossed wrote:I'm looking into upgrading my Mason to either eTap or Di2 but a little unsure which to go for at the moment.
I really like the looks of the eTap due to the clean install with no cables or junction boxes to worry about but at the same time I quite like the flexibility of the Di2 in being able to run it with MTB derrailleurs along with customising the shifting etc through the app. Tough choice!
p.s. With Di2, if you want to use a Di2 MTB rear derailleur, and are using two front chainrings, then you need to use a Di2 MTB front derailleur as well. You can't mix Di2 MTB RD with Di2 road FD, which can cause front shifting issues if trying to use an MTB FD with road size chainrings. Also, if you want synchro shifting to work then you need the MT junction box, not the EW junction box.
You don't really need a MTB rear derailleur for R8050 Di2 as it is capable of taking a 40 tooth rear cassette despite the manufacturers guidelines. Why you'd want to I don't know.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0 -
1x. I have a cross bike running 1x using Ui2 6870 with a GS mech. I've got 40x11-32 at the moment, but would like 46x11-40. Can't do that with a 6800RD, was thinking about using an MT rear mech (none of the issues above affect me as it's 1x) but if 8050 will do 40T that would good. Although the MT rear mech will be clutched, so I'll get less chain slap.philthy3 wrote:You don't really need a MTB rear derailleur for R8050 Di2 as it is capable of taking a 40 tooth rear cassette despite the manufacturers guidelines. Why you'd want to I don't know.0 -
I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0
