Slimmer chain?

jsisidore
jsisidore Posts: 123
edited September 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
I have a 1x8 setup 11-34x39, and I noticed that the rear mech has to be a bit off to the side for there to be no rubbing, no matter how I try to align the highest gear with the pulley wheels. Would it make sense to use a slimmer chain 9-10-11 speed with my chainset? Or is it better to get bb spacers instead but then I'm not sure how it will work with the lowest gear... if there some kind of calculator to calculate the optimal level between the cassette sprockets and the chainring? But I doubt that.

Comments

  • jsisidore
    jsisidore Posts: 123
    The chainring is shimano alfine 39t for their internal hub system, I reckon the chain has to be one speed and not 8 speed? The chain also vibrates on highest gear which creates a feeling as though bb bearings are misbehaving which is not true. other than that it's alright.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Maybe start again, specify what you have. Bit by bit. Whats rubbing on what?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    11-34 would be unusual on an 8, 11-32 perhaps, not that it matters.

    It's not clear what you mean by the much has to be off to one side to prevent ride, off to one side of what?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • jsisidore
    jsisidore Posts: 123
    I mean when the gear is vertical with the pulley wheel as it should it creates noise. But then you would probably will tell me that something is out of alignment and I should check it out but I know every mm of my bike, so please read my original post, I think the parts are not cross compatible which is expected, I mean it works but not so well, as I said in my op there is a mysterious vibration on some higher gears, I mean some say that chainrings are compatible with most chains, but I'm not sure if the one I have is an example. Basically I have no idea. Some math will have to be involved. I guess that is what you get for building your own bike from different manufacturer parts... too much uncertainty.
  • jsisidore
    jsisidore Posts: 123
    Next time I'll just get slx groupset, it's quite cheap now.
  • jsisidore
    jsisidore Posts: 123
    I proly need bb spacers but the inner tube thingy is short as it is, as I think the setup was meant for one gear? So yeah I reckon the chainset is the culprit.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You can edit posts you know, little pencil icon top right of each post.

    i have no idea what 'when the gear is vertical' means, they are fixed. You tweak the indexing until the chain runs silently into the rear sprockets and shifts when you want it to, the upper jockey wheel has side to side float (Shimano) so what it looks like statically may not be where it is dynamically (riding).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

Categories