Shoes with most rearward cleat position

dbmnk
dbmnk Posts: 217
edited June 2017 in Road buying advice
Hello there

I am looking to get new road shoes for use with speedplay pedals, so ideally a four hole sole.

I am looking for the shoes that enables the most rearward cleat position.

I currently have a pair of sidi mega 6 in three hole and some alu rearward extender plate. The shoe haven't enough big toe width and the alu plate is clunky, so would like something mouldable and speedplay specific.

Which shoes do you know will give a far aft cleat position?

Any other reccomemdations for wide toe area, narrow heel, speedplay usable?

Cheers
Simon

Comments

  • mfin
    mfin Posts: 6,729
    I don't know about the 4 hole version, but Lake CX402 in 3 bolt do have quite a rearward possibility, and they do a 4 bolt speedplay version you'd want.

    As for wide toe area and narrow heel, that's how I'd describe the CX402, that's exactly why I like find them great, plenty of room up front but narrow at the heel. I find the insoles are crap, and it wasn't until I put Superfeet Yellow Insoles in them that they were dead on.

    CX331 can be really good too, a bit narrower up front, and generally you want half a size bigger than the CX402. The old CX331 you see the most in photos (has some silver on it and a small lake logo on the side of the carbon sole) is not as good, the footbed is not the same. A lot of websites ship the newer one and haven't updated their photos though. (I don't know anything about the new CX332).

    So, the 402 is a fair bit roomier at the front, but either work for me. By the way, in Sworks I fit 43.5, in CX402 I am 44 and CX331 I am 44.5 (my Spesh MTB shoes are 43, and I have no experience of Sidi apart from trying some on in the past and the ones I tried never fitted well for me).
  • matt_n-2
    matt_n-2 Posts: 581
    With Speedplay you can get an extender plate for the cleat plate that allows some further adjustment.

    I use them on mine.

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/speedplay-alumi ... plate-kit/
    Colnago Master Olympic
    Colnago CLX 3.0
    Colnago Dream
    Giant Trinity Advanced
    Italian steel winter hack
  • dbmnk
    dbmnk Posts: 217
    Thanks for replies.

    Very useful, mfin.

    Anyone experience with Lake or Bont wpodition with reference to Sidi?
  • gaanrowl
    gaanrowl Posts: 326
    Tried both Sidi Wire and bont vaypor and now using Lake CX 402 (assos Version) sidi`s seemed long and narrow, bonts were horrendous. Lake in std width are nice and roomy and easy to mold the heel cup. I use 3 bolt adapter and find the rear adjustment ok. i use the extender plate on my Giro`s.
  • bot123
    bot123 Posts: 2
    This is MTB of course but I know Richie Rude drilled out the soles of his shoes to get his cleats further back...
    Disclaimer - I take no responsibility if you wreck some fancy brand new carbon soled beauties :D
  • dbmnk
    dbmnk Posts: 217
    Very cool

    Seems Lakes are the ones then. Very few in stock around though.
  • dbmnk
    dbmnk Posts: 217
    Tried lake cx236, but the heel is too slippery, so didn't work unfortunately.
    Ended up with S-Works 6 now, and they seem ok in the toe box since they are half a number too large.
    Issue is now to have the cleat mounted further back and get a more pronounced metatarsal button.
    Cleat holes seem to have sliding screw nuts, but can't be slided. Suppose they need to be rotated for a more rearward position.
  • skyblue337
    skyblue337 Posts: 135
    dbmnk wrote:
    Tried lake cx236, but the heel is too slippery, so didn't work unfortunately.
    Ended up with S-Works 6 now, and they seem ok in the toe box since they are half a number too large.
    Issue is now to have the cleat mounted further back and get a more pronounced metatarsal button.
    Cleat holes seem to have sliding screw nuts, but can't be slided. Suppose they need to be rotated for a more rearward position.

    It's a bit of a faff and a bit scary but it can be done. Based on specialized's advice I did it from the inside on my sub 6s. Get the insole out and give yourself as much working room under the tongue as possible. Then you have to prise up each cover in turn and get the cleat nut out and reorient. They are lightly glued down from the factory buy I was assured that the cleats would hold them in place. It's definitely one of those mods that feels like a permanent change in that the cleat nuts will never be quite as solidly in place as before. No long term feedback unfortunately I only managed a couple of rides after making the change
  • StillGoing
    StillGoing Posts: 5,211
    Northwave Extreme
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • bompington
    bompington Posts: 7,674
    The question in my mind isn't so much "how", as "why"?