Cutting steerer tube on the bike
londoncommuter
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I did the steerer on my CAAD12 Disc.
Just remove the two bolts which attach the caliper to the fork, take off stem and drop fork out the bottom. Obviously this can only be done with externally mounted hydraulic lines.
With internal lines, you either have to disconnect line and bleed when reinstalled, or if they have them, just disconnect the QR line adapter.0 -
Ryan_W wrote:I did the steerer on my CAAD12 Disc.
Just remove the two bolts which attach the caliper to the fork, take off stem and drop fork out the bottom. Obviously this can only be done with externally mounted hydraulic lines.
With internal lines, you either have to disconnect line and bleed when reinstalled, or if they have them, just disconnect the QR line adapter.
They're internal in the forks so I guess the first option is out. There are what kind of look like in-line gear barrel adjusters on the lines. Are they QR somehow (sorry this is veering onto disc brakes 101)?0 -
Depends on how much cable they've left I guess. I did exactly same with recent winter bike I'd purchased. Managed to get the bars off over the steerer without needing to take anything off (hoods, tape, calipers etc). Lobbed the excess tube off and reassembled no problem0
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Pippi Langsamer wrote:Depends on how much cable they've left I guess. I did exactly same with recent winter bike I'd purchased. Managed to get the bars off over the steerer without needing to take anything off (hoods, tape, calipers etc). Lobbed the excess tube off and reassembled no problem
Did you keep the bike upright? Did you use a cutter guide and how did you keep the whole thing from moving?0 -
londoncommuter wrote:Pippi Langsamer wrote:Depends on how much cable they've left I guess. I did exactly same with recent winter bike I'd purchased. Managed to get the bars off over the steerer without needing to take anything off (hoods, tape, calipers etc). Lobbed the excess tube off and reassembled no problem
Did you keep the bike upright? Did you use a cutter guide and how did you keep the whole thing from moving?
Never owned a "cutter guide", as such- I use an old stem as my guide. Bike was held in bike stand with me holding the bars steady
I should add, this was carried out on this new winter bike with an alu steerer, so there's far less care required in the cutting IMO. When I cut carbon tubes, I will always take the fork out and clamp it (carefully), before cutting (more carefully).0 -
Take off stem and bars, etc, leave them hanging down or prop against something.
Put rubbish old stem on at the place where you want to cut, wrap rag below so no cack drops down.
Bike in turbo trainer or bet a mate to hold it tight.
Cut steerer, file off, clean up, etc.
Re fit stem, etc.
Smash off cut with hammer and throw into next door's garden.
Job jobbed.
Done loads like this, no need to remove forks, wheel, etc if you don't want to. You're cutting a metal tube with a hacksaw, not making a space shuttle.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Buy one of these:
My favourite tool and less than £15. I've use it in situ on the dozen or so times I've needed to trim an (alu) steering tube. No need for a guide (once you've selected the cutting point), no tedious sawing, just spin to win.0
