index gear question
myideal
Posts: 231
Hi,
Before I do anything silly though I would ask here. So my bike gears now need indexing and I've always just done this turning the cap 1/4 turn at a time.
My issue appears to be with the large rear gear when in the big ring (I know I shouldn't use it and dont when out riding) , however it just doesn't want to go into it.
On the small ring it was clicking a bit, few turns (anti clockwise) on the cap and up it went. All is working well on the lower ring up and down. However back on the big ring and it simply won't go up to it.
Tried moving the derailer by hand and it does go up, but that does require me to give it a good push. Should I adjust the derailer limit screw and try and nudge it over a bit or is this a sign of something else that I need to look at? Don't want to start messing and making more issues that I need to.
Before I do anything silly though I would ask here. So my bike gears now need indexing and I've always just done this turning the cap 1/4 turn at a time.
My issue appears to be with the large rear gear when in the big ring (I know I shouldn't use it and dont when out riding) , however it just doesn't want to go into it.
On the small ring it was clicking a bit, few turns (anti clockwise) on the cap and up it went. All is working well on the lower ring up and down. However back on the big ring and it simply won't go up to it.
Tried moving the derailer by hand and it does go up, but that does require me to give it a good push. Should I adjust the derailer limit screw and try and nudge it over a bit or is this a sign of something else that I need to look at? Don't want to start messing and making more issues that I need to.
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Comments
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Start doing your mechs all over again.
Starting with the limit screw done properly from big ring. Go to you tube on how to do that.
If you still can't get perfect shifting then it is worth a look at your rear hanger. If it is bent it can also cause problems with shifting alignment causing weird shifting issues.0 -
Nothing wrong with mixing the gears up occasionally. If it's stopped working as well as it once did return it to an as-new state. Remove the cable inners, drip some oil down the outers & wipe the inners with oily tissues and give each mech a good wipe down & lube, then put it all back together as god intended and start again from where it should be. Half an hour with the football on 5L in the background should see it right.0
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You are right to not use it, so I don't see there is a problem if the other gears work okay.myideal wrote:My issue appears to be with the large rear gear when in the big ring (I know I shouldn't use it and dont when out riding) ,0 -
But that means you're okay with it not working properly and rather than fix the problem it'll only get worse, and then what; no second gear either, ropey shifting across the board? Somethings not quite right with it, it's a trivial job to clean and relube it to get it back up to spec. Why wouldn't you?myideal wrote:You are right to not use it, so I don't see there is a problem if the other gears work okay.0 -
Don't worry about the oft ( wrongly ) repeated "cross chaining is bad mkay" BS, as that's really not relevant with a modern chain. I wouldn't touch the limit screws either, unless you have replaced the rear mech. Put the bike into its lowest gear cable tension ( smallest ring, smallest sprocket ) then release the pinch bolt on the cable on the rear mech. Pull the cable slightly, then re tighten the pinch bolt. Now put it on the large ring, and get it on as large a sprocket as you can. You may find it will go up onto the big sprocket now without further adjustments. If not, the quarter turn at a time method will do the trick.0
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Thanks. I'll give that a try.
So the cross chaining isn't such a big issue as people make out. I never thought about it until seeing it on these forums then became scared as such of using those upper gears on the big ring.
I think the bike is bedding in as done about 500m on it now, hence the reason I suspect adjustments are needed.0 -
Why use it though? Your gears wont be sequential so youd be better off on the small ring with a smaller sprocket.
Work your ratios out and youll see.0 -
All your gears should be working. Get it adjusted.
Not sure you will use the Big chain ring with the smallest ring at the back but they should shift in all gears without problem.
I use all my gears so not sure what's the advise given by some here.0 -
hsiaolc wrote:All your gears should be working. Get it adjusted.
Not sure you will use the Big chain ring with the smallest ring at the back but they should shift in all gears without problem.
I use all my gears so not sure what's the advise given by some here.
Crossing the chain is not about the big/small combo but big/big. Stick it in there and have a look at the chain line...rotate the pedals and look at the chain coming off the teeth front and back...
The weakest point of a chain is the plates, which is exactly where a chain will break for those chaps who regularly ride big/big and then put the power down grinding up hill because they can't be bothered to change down. It isn't just an old wives tale as I have had to help those riders at the side of the road who have broken a chain and don't have a tool. Then factor in chain efficiency. ..not relevant for most of us but there is a reason why TT riders spend a lot of time fussing over the optimum gear and the line it will give.
Sure, some folks ride big/big all the time without an issue. ..it is all about risk assessment.
OP, get ya gears sorted. Big/big is not something you should be doing but the bike should be able to cope with it in case of inadvertently using it, night riding, etc.0 -
Bobbinogs wrote:hsiaolc wrote:All your gears should be working. Get it adjusted.
Not sure you will use the Big chain ring with the smallest ring at the back but they should shift in all gears without problem.
I use all my gears so not sure what's the advise given by some here.
Crossing the chain is not about the big/small combo but big/big. Stick it in there and have a look at the chain line...rotate the pedals and look at the chain coming off the teeth front and back...
The weakest point of a chain is the plates, which is exactly where a chain will break for those chaps who regularly ride big/big and then put the power down grinding up hill because they can't be bothered to change down. It isn't just an old wives tale as I have had to help those riders at the side of the road who have broken a chain and don't have a tool. Then factor in chain efficiency. ..not relevant for most of us but there is a reason why TT riders spend a lot of time fussing over the optimum gear and the line it will give.
Sure, some folks ride big/big all the time without an issue. ..it is all about risk assessment.
OP, get ya gears sorted. Big/big is not something you should be doing but the bike should be able to cope with it in case of inadvertently using it, night riding, etc.
I wasn't aiming or encouraging cross chainring. If anything I preach to use all gears and the most efficient gearing.
With the new gearing these days the cross charing problem is greatly reduced. Although not recommend by Shimano (an opinion from different manufacturer from this site done) but it shouldn't be that you can't use it at all if you want to.
In OPs case his gearing is not working at all in that range.
But my point is that whether you lazy or not your gear should all work. If not then get it fixed and one shouldn't be saying don't fix it because you shouldn't cross charinring.0 -
myideal wrote:Thanks. I'll give that a try.
So the cross chaining isn't such a big issue as people make out. I never thought about it until seeing it on these forums then became scared as such of using those upper gears on the big ring.
I think the bike is bedding in as done about 500m on it now, hence the reason I suspect adjustments are needed.
I often find this problem is just down to the cables bedding in. Whenever I get a new bike, I'll routinely do what I mentioned after a couple of thousand miles.0
