Hope BB Install issue
Hi there, having a bit of an issue installing a new Hope ceramic BB.
Quick rundown: I built this bike in the spring, mostly for commuting. It is a Dolan preffisio frame (68mm), and was a SRAM Rival 22 groupset, with the really rather rubbish SRAM GXP BB. I always knew it was junk, from day 1, but I didn't have time to do anything about it.
I've slowly been upgrading to Red 22 (The front mec upgrade was awesome), and now I'm on to the crank, and with it the BB. So I got it all in, but noticed a fair bit of drag, it would only go a couple spins before stopping (pedals on, no chain). Also had a sound, a bit of rubbing or something. This seemed rather odd, since there is a space about 3/8" between the cup and the chain ring, which is where I thought the sound was coming from.
Took it all apart, greased everything again, and tried again, same thing. So what I found after some fiddling is that the NDS side doesn't rotate freely if it is any more than hand tight, and going by the 300 or whatever ft-lbs of torque it wants, I'm guessing something is not quite right. I am kind of suspecting that the centre tube is side loading the bearing from the inside (What is the point of that thing?)
Did a bunch of looking into the spacers that came with it, and discovered that the general consensus is that you need them, except that you don't, but maybe you actually do, but probably only on a MTB. Which is really rather confusing. Also they are definitely not 1 mm spacers, I measured them closer to two, meant to bring them to work and get a mic on them, but I forgot. So I have three of them, and based on the space mentioned above, I'm reasonably sure I could get one, or maybe all three of them in. Really hope I don't need to get the GXP converter bits out, because they would likely require tools that I lack.
Any thoughts? Try spacers? One, two, three?
Quick rundown: I built this bike in the spring, mostly for commuting. It is a Dolan preffisio frame (68mm), and was a SRAM Rival 22 groupset, with the really rather rubbish SRAM GXP BB. I always knew it was junk, from day 1, but I didn't have time to do anything about it.
I've slowly been upgrading to Red 22 (The front mec upgrade was awesome), and now I'm on to the crank, and with it the BB. So I got it all in, but noticed a fair bit of drag, it would only go a couple spins before stopping (pedals on, no chain). Also had a sound, a bit of rubbing or something. This seemed rather odd, since there is a space about 3/8" between the cup and the chain ring, which is where I thought the sound was coming from.
Took it all apart, greased everything again, and tried again, same thing. So what I found after some fiddling is that the NDS side doesn't rotate freely if it is any more than hand tight, and going by the 300 or whatever ft-lbs of torque it wants, I'm guessing something is not quite right. I am kind of suspecting that the centre tube is side loading the bearing from the inside (What is the point of that thing?)
Did a bunch of looking into the spacers that came with it, and discovered that the general consensus is that you need them, except that you don't, but maybe you actually do, but probably only on a MTB. Which is really rather confusing. Also they are definitely not 1 mm spacers, I measured them closer to two, meant to bring them to work and get a mic on them, but I forgot. So I have three of them, and based on the space mentioned above, I'm reasonably sure I could get one, or maybe all three of them in. Really hope I don't need to get the GXP converter bits out, because they would likely require tools that I lack.
Any thoughts? Try spacers? One, two, three?
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Comments
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Did you fit the GXP convertors?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope ... -prod26899
They should be all you need, they space and change the opening to fit a GXP spindle.0 -
Yes, they are in.0
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Hope recommend fitting a 1mm spacer either side, this may explain the lack of free spinning.
http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uplo ... ctions.pdf
The drag is likely the bearings being slightly over compressed, I fitted mine and it spins freely with a single spacer either side.
Can always try just slackening off one side see if its spins up0 -
Like I said, the included spacers are quite a bit bigger than 1mm, but I'll give it a go with them when I get home.0
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I think they are a bit bigger, probably about 1.5/2mm put one in and see, if it still drags add another.
Basically if you have a 73mm or 100mm BB you would use less or no spacers. Narrower the BB more spacers required so as not to compress the bearings.0 -
If the spacers push the bearings out then that would only make them even more compressed!Step83 wrote:Hope recommend fitting a 1mm spacer either side, this may explain the lack of free spinning.
http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uplo ... ctions.pdf
The drag is likely the bearings being slightly over compressed, I fitted mine and it spins freely with a single spacer either side.
Can always try just slackening off one side see if its spins up
I'd try removing it from the bike and doing up the bolt trapping the NDS bearing and seeing if it spins freely.
I'm running GXP cranks in a Shimano BB using an adaptor without issue.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Doing up the axle bolt with the BB out of the frame wouldn't do anything. It would just be hanging loose on the axle without being attached to anything, so no compression.
The spacer might help, because, like I said in OP, I think it might be pressing on the center tube.0 -
GXP clamps across the NDS inner race, it's not the same as Shimano, at least that's how they are meant to work.
Read and be educated
https://www.sram.com/truvativ/technolog ... om-bracket
So yes it will work out the frame, as for the centre tube, it shouldn't touch the bearing as its stopped on the bearing housing.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Took it apart to look for dirt and such, found that the DS bearing is totally shot, felt like gravel.
No idea how that could have happened.0 -
At least it's easily remedied!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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If it's new there's something wrong. Have you run it with way too much preload??FFS! Harden up and grow a pair
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I don't know? Don't think you add preload to a GXP setup.0
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Surely though adding spacers between the Frame and BB would increase the gap so the inner sleeve is not compressing either side. I'm referring to these badgers.The Rookie wrote:If the spacers push the bearings out then that would only make them even more compressed!
Least its sorted though, you going down the warranty route?0 -
Yea, they asked me to send them back.
Not much other choice, I guess0 -
Step83, the trouble is that GXP is very fussy on bearing width as you don't preload across the bearings like you do with Shimano, if the bearings are two wide you end up with massive preload or a loose crank. Experience with Shimano HT2 is irrelevant when it comes to GXP.
TruvativGXP is different — and better. Other systems rely on side-loaded bearings to eliminate play, causing bearing wear. GXP captures the left-side bearing between the spindle and the left crankarm and allows the drive-side bearing to float axially on the spindle. There's no need to side-load bearings during adjustment. No excess wear. And a much simpler installation. Just tighten to the proper specifications and you're ready to roll, worry-free.
With GXP the bolt does up tight locking the NDS inner race between the crank spindle and crank arm, the DS crank should be a few mm clear of the DS bearing and there is a wavy spring washer between the two to apply a small amount of preload.
The sleeve shouldn't be an issue if its correct as it has about 3mm plus of play when installed correctly. I used an MTB sleeve in mine (its what I had available - MTB are longer than road sleeves) with the shoulders trimmed off and it would have fitted a 62mm bearing shell.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Don't think I've ever seen a wave spring at the crank? Wasn't anything like that in the box for either I have installed.0
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Makes sense now, Im still thinking the inner side of the bearing race is being compressed with the sleeve (thick moment) should know better im using GXP on the road bike, I should know better!0
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Some do, some dont!Jaychale wrote:Don't think I've ever seen a wave spring at the crank? Wasn't anything like that in the box for either I have installed.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bottom-Bracke ... qFqusQyD0Q
Mine does but I'm not sure of the rational behind which do and which don't, but as I'm using Shimano HT2 bearings the washer will help hold the plastic top hat in place so seemed a wise move!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Got my BB back from hope (OK, two weeks ago)
They replaced the drive side cup and bearing, which feels great, but they left the NDS, which still felt pretty gritty, and comparatively shit. Tore it apart, cleaned and regreased, which has improved it a fair bit, but still feels nothing like the new one.
Decided I could live with it, despite the horrendous amount I paid for shiny new bearings, and now discover that my spindle (Which definitely just came out of a GXP BB) doesn't fit through the GXP spacers, which I have no conceivable way to remove.
Tried putting it through backwards, just to see how much play there would be without it, there is some, not a lot, but possibly enough to be concerning. Any ideas? They are really in there..0
