Strange one
My bike developed another rattle around the chainset somewhere but it seems to still be there when I stop pedalling. Will just sitting without pedalling still apply enough force to the bottom bracket to stress it? The rear wheel is brand new so couldnt be the bearings. But once it started lashing down (proper lashing and soaked through) the noise went away.
Now im hoping these might be related, but the chain would skip now and again on the front chainrings and when it started lashing down it happened a lot more often. I checked the chainring teeth and they look fine, the cassette looks fine too, so it sounds like I may need a new chain. An internet search seems to think a skipping chain is always chain and chainring damage but my chain ring looks good
Any thoughts?
Now im hoping these might be related, but the chain would skip now and again on the front chainrings and when it started lashing down it happened a lot more often. I checked the chainring teeth and they look fine, the cassette looks fine too, so it sounds like I may need a new chain. An internet search seems to think a skipping chain is always chain and chainring damage but my chain ring looks good
Any thoughts?
Cube Attain SL Disc
Giant CRS 2.0
Giant CRS 2.0
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Comments
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Bottle cage nuts?0
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Long shot - does it occur when you're out of the saddle? if not, it's possibly worth checking a 'dry joint' on the seat post or saddle...."It must be true, it's on the internet" - Winston Churchill0
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seanorawe wrote:My bike developed another rattle around the chainset somewhere but it seems to still be there when I stop pedalling. Will just sitting without pedalling still apply enough force to the bottom bracket to stress it? The rear wheel is brand new so couldnt be the bearings. But once it started lashing down (proper lashing and soaked through) the noise went away.
Now im hoping these might be related, but the chain would skip now and again on the front chainrings and when it started lashing down it happened a lot more often. I checked the chainring teeth and they look fine, the cassette looks fine too, so it sounds like I may need a new chain. An internet search seems to think a skipping chain is always chain and chainring damage but my chain ring looks good
Any thoughts?
Still check back wheel for play. My fulcrum quattro back wheel regularly loosens itself since new (tried doing collar up tight, any suggestions?) , causing knocks and rattles that I thought was the Bb for a long time.0 -
Mad_Malx wrote:seanorawe wrote:My bike developed another rattle around the chainset somewhere but it seems to still be there when I stop pedalling. Will just sitting without pedalling still apply enough force to the bottom bracket to stress it? The rear wheel is brand new so couldnt be the bearings. But once it started lashing down (proper lashing and soaked through) the noise went away.
Now im hoping these might be related, but the chain would skip now and again on the front chainrings and when it started lashing down it happened a lot more often. I checked the chainring teeth and they look fine, the cassette looks fine too, so it sounds like I may need a new chain. An internet search seems to think a skipping chain is always chain and chainring damage but my chain ring looks good
Any thoughts?
Still check back wheel for play. My fulcrum quattro back wheel regularly loosens itself since new (tried doing collar up tight, any suggestions?) , causing knocks and rattles that I thought was the Bb for a long time.
No play in it. Ill hold the wheel by the axle when I get hone to listen for any roughness in the hub just in case.
As for the other poster, I think it actually does go away out of the saddle and maybe the rain lubed it enough to stop the rattle? Any thoughts on the chain skipping? Or have I already answered myself by diagnosing a new chain needed?Cube Attain SL Disc
Giant CRS 2.00 -
Can anyone recomend a chain tool that wont cost the earth I can use to install a sram 11 speed chain?Cube Attain SL Disc
Giant CRS 2.00 -
The lezyne 11 speed one seems to crop up regularly, it is less than £20. Haven't used one myself but they are on my wish list for when I go to 11 spd.
Edit: Although I am still a little unsure if a normal 10 spd chain brute can be used to just split an 11 spd chain and then reattach with KMC Missing Links, etc., which is how I normally close a chain. Can't see why not in which case I might not need to spend the cash. I do note that the 11 spd MLs are not reusable due to the tolerances involved.
Further edit: Good explanation/answer from Mercia Man here:
The problem is that the 11-speed chain is narrow and the pins are in very tightly. When the chain sits on the guide, the back is not supported and the force of pushing out the pin can distort the back plate of the chain. This didn't happen to me when I broke the chain successfully with my high quality Park multi-tool nine-speed chain tool but I can see it could be a potential risk. A good 11-speed tool like the Park CT3.2 has an adjustable locating shelf which slides back and forward to ensure the back of the chain is supported no matter what size chain you are using.
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