Cassette Lock Nut

FishFish
FishFish Posts: 2,152
edited April 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
Am doing up one of my bikes and changing to 1*10. The Shimano 9 spd cassette is well and truly locked and I'm struggling to get it off. I've read a thread on here (2010!) but can't get any further. Any suggestions will be appreciated. :D
...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

jeez :roll:

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    More power.

    Chain whip on one side, cassette tool on the other and just use your full weight to push down on both.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    With CD, leave the tyre on the rim (it's more secure) leaning over the wheel have the chain whip and lockring remover at a quarter to three (opposite each other) and push down hard.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    Well I'll try it again tomorrow after a soak in WD 40 but I'll also use the skewers to hold the socket in place and get violent. If I'm happy to sacrifice the cassette then does that present any additional options?
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll:
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Nope you have to loosen the lockring.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    Am I missing something here? you need the skewers out usually to fit the lockring tool in place. But a penetrating oil isnt a bad idea. though WD wouldnt be my first point of call mind but it should work.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You can fit a skewer after the lockring tool is in place to hold it there if you are undoing it with a spanner (rather than a ratchet).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    My bad thinking the wrong tool Im thinking the ratchet version with the insert rather than the spanner version.
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    I had to lash the chain whip to the wheel then use the skewer and bits of steel plate to hold the wrench and locknut tool and tied the wheel to the legs of the bench then belted the wrench with a lump hammer. ( all this because my boy predicted that without everything tied down then a major trip to the dentist would follow!) That sorted it out and actually broke the chain whip too!

    FFS what a hassle and superficially no reason - the hub - a steel one - was full of sand and grease and my guess is that the threads were contaminated with sand and would just not budge.

    I was dreading putting a new cable on the shifter - piece of ...so I've now got a Bizango 1*10 - happy with that.
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Goes to show the benefit of routine maintenance, like checking stuff is clean!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.