Tyre problem - or not?
chrisaonabike
Posts: 1,914
My OH came home with her first ever puncture the other day, and I talked her through changing the tube.
The tyre itself doesn't look in too bad condition, no obvious bulges, but once it was back on the rim and pumped up, it looked a bit strange on the "spin it round and look" test - higher (as in, further from the hub) in a couple of places then others, by perhaps a couple of mm.
We let all the air out, and I went right round it (again!), ensuring that it was properly seated, and then pumped it up again - it was no different.
The tyre is about two and a half years old, about 4000 miles.
So I've videoed it rotating, could you take a look please?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FP3Th1di-u8
Safe? Cause?
Cheers
The tyre itself doesn't look in too bad condition, no obvious bulges, but once it was back on the rim and pumped up, it looked a bit strange on the "spin it round and look" test - higher (as in, further from the hub) in a couple of places then others, by perhaps a couple of mm.
We let all the air out, and I went right round it (again!), ensuring that it was properly seated, and then pumped it up again - it was no different.
The tyre is about two and a half years old, about 4000 miles.
So I've videoed it rotating, could you take a look please?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FP3Th1di-u8
Safe? Cause?
Cheers
Is the gorilla tired yet?
0
Comments
-
I had the same problem with some giant tyres. There was a variation of 3mm in gap between brake caliper and the top of the tyre. On a smooth road I could feel it. I had the tyre on and off many times.I tried moving the tyres on the rims. I tried lubricating the beads with some washing up liquid .I tried new rim tapes. All to no avail. I gave up and put them on some wheels I was selling.I bought them cheap in a sale and could not be bothered sending them back.
I hope you find a solution.I would like to know if you do.0 -
I would try:
1) Using another inner tube
2) Swapping front and rear tyres
3) Use the same tyre, but rotated on the wheel (and note where the "bump" is relative to the valve)
Those three things will tell you if its the tyre, the inner tube or the wheel at fault. Since it's after a puncture, the obvious candidate is the tube. Is it a replacement tube, or the same one with a patch?
You don't mention anything like it, so it seems unlikely, but was the inner tube a "self sealing" one, and now there's some escaped sealant on the inside of the tyre itself?0 -
Interesting thoughts.[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19776744#p19776744]ElectronShepherd[/url] wrote:
...Since it's after a puncture, the obvious candidate is the tube. Is it a replacement tube, or the same one with a patch?
You don't mention anything like it, so it seems unlikely, but was the inner tube a "self sealing" one, and now there's some escaped sealant on the inside of the tyre itself?
It's a different tube, but one with a patch. Normal tube, not self-sealing.
I know that the rubber is thicker at a patch, so that if you put a bit of air in it outside the tyre, the patch region is more constricted than the rest, but I'd be amazed if this made a difference to the shape of the tyre once it's inside, at 100 psi :shock:
Surely even the patch region stretches out to fit the tyre space at normal operating pressures?Is the gorilla tired yet?0 -
Did you ever look at the tyre before the puncture (I.E. are you sure it was OK before?). I have (had) a Vittoria wire bead tyre that just would not seat properly, on examination the wire bead had a kink which I could not straighten enough to allow a proper seat, I think it must have been manufactured like that or someone had folded it when it was not meant to be (junked tyre as I was changing to folding anyhow). Pretty sure a patch will not cause such a variation.Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
Van Raam 'O' Pair
Land Rover (really nasty weather
)0 -
Well, not 100% sure. TBH, we'd never inspected it that closely.Did you ever look at the tyre before the puncture (I.E. are you sure it was OK before?).
Whenever I insisted that the OH practise removing the wheel, replacing the tube and putting the wheel back, it was always the harder back one I made her do - so that she's better equipped to fix it miles from home if she needs to. I mean, I'd get in the car and pick her up in a heartbeat if I can, but sod's law says that when she has a rear wheel puncture, I'm 100 miles away, or drunk, or the car will break down.
So I'm not sure we've ever looked closely at the front wheel, in reality. It might or might not have been the same before the puncture.
Conti GP 4000S are on a reasonable deal at Wiggle at the moment, so we've ordered a couple. Hopefully once they're on, the problem will go away. Hopefully the Contis are easier to get on and off than the ones that came with the bike, which are right barstewards. I've got Four Seasons on mine, they're great, don't need tyre levers at all.Is the gorilla tired yet?0 -
The tyre is about two and a half years old, about 4000 miles.
4,000 miles - I rarely get much more than about 2000 miles out of mine, particularly rears. I had a pair of Michelin Pro 4 SC. They lasted ±1700 - 1800 miles.
Continental GP4000S were substantially better at 3000-3500 miles.
I just replaced a Giant rear tyre on my winter Defy - roughly 2100 miles on it and canvas showing in a couple of places....
Point being at 4000 miles I think it's probably time to change that tyre anyhow.....0
