Shimano RS11 Bearings

JesseD
JesseD Posts: 1,961
edited January 2016 in Workshop
Anyone know what type of bearings are in the rear hub on a Shimano RS11 wheels?

I have googled and apparently they are angular contact bearings but I cannot find the spec anywhere to order some and replace the ones in there.

Thanks
Obsessed is a word used by the lazy to describe the dedicated!

Comments

  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    1/4 inch, 9 each side.
  • JesseD
    JesseD Posts: 1,961
    Thanks, does that mean they are individual ball bearings or a sealed angular contact bearing?
    Obsessed is a word used by the lazy to describe the dedicated!
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    I thought they were just standard cup/cone bearings (?) so, if you are having problems it might be worth just servicing them to see if that solves things. Might also be worth ordering some new balls anyway as they are cheap as chips and it is usually the balls that go before the cones, IME:

    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-1-4-inch-steel-ball-bearings-18pcs-000-9131-prod19557/
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    They are conventional cup and cone with loose ball bearings, so may just need a clean and repack with fresh grease before adjustment / refitting. Adjust carefully so there's a tiny bit of play before installing the wheel which is eliminated on tightening the QR.

    I do my RS10's every year before winter sets in. Only needed new bearings after 7 years; I ordered the Shimano ball bearings from SJS, but cheaper and better ones are likely available from bearing suppliers.
    At the last inspection the rear D/S cup and cone were looking a little corroded and the grease was pretty mucky. Cones are replaceable; badly pitted cup means a new hub, which often means the cheapest thing is a new wheel...
  • JesseD
    JesseD Posts: 1,961
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19775387#p19775387]Bobbinogs[/url] wrote:
    I thought they were just standard cup/cone bearings (?) so, if you are having problems it might be worth just servicing them to see if that solves things. Might also be worth ordering some new balls anyway as they are cheap as chips and it is usually the balls that go before the cones, IME:

    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-1-4-inch-steel-ball-bearings-18pcs-000-9131-prod19557/

    OK so not angular contact bearings, that makes it easier (my googling threw up they were?)

    I'll buy some today and have a crack this evening (if i can get them locally) and see if it makes a difference.

    if not then the only other thing i can see it being is the BB, which i took out, checked and regreased after the ride last night.

    For the entire ride I felt as if the rear brake was on (it wasn't, I checked)
    Obsessed is a word used by the lazy to describe the dedicated!
  • JesseD
    JesseD Posts: 1,961
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19775394#p19775394]keef66[/url] wrote:
    They are conventional cup and cone with loose ball bearings, so may just need a clean and repack with fresh grease before adjustment / refitting. Adjust carefully so there's a tiny bit of play before installing the wheel which is eliminated on tightening the QR.

    I do my RS10's every year before winter sets in. Only needed new bearings after 7 years; I ordered the Shimano ball bearings from SJS, but cheaper and better ones are likely available from bearing suppliers.
    At the last inspection the rear D/S cup and cone were looking a little corroded and the grease was pretty mucky. Cones are replaceable; badly pitted cup means a new hub, which often means the cheapest thing is a new wheel...

    Thanks, wheel is only 7 months old but I have been riding all year round and in very bad weather, will buy some bearings (just in case) and then service mine tonight, hopefully will get away with a clean and regrease.

    I am right in thinking I need 13mm and 17mm cone spanners?
    Obsessed is a word used by the lazy to describe the dedicated!
  • JesseD
    JesseD Posts: 1,961
    I meant 15mm and 17mm
    Obsessed is a word used by the lazy to describe the dedicated!
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Crikey, a rear hub would have to be pretty far gone to produce that kind of resistance :shock: Is the wheel off-centre so the tyre is rubbing one of the chainstays?
    What happens if you pick up the rear of the bike and spin the rear wheel forwards?

    I can never remember which sizes the cone spanners are; I have a cheapo pressed steel set that includes all the common sizes and just keep trying them till I find the ones that fit.

    Which reminds me, I must do the R501s on the winter bike...

    One thing I do when the rear bearings / axle are out is to remove the freehub (10mm allen key, unscrews normal way) carefully pick out the rubber seal (note which way round it goes) and drizzle some medium weight oil in there. I use whatever goes in the car engine. Never had a freehub fail yet.
  • JesseD
    JesseD Posts: 1,961
    First thing I did was check the brakes but they were OK, it wasn't a really bad pull but there definitely was some drag when riding.

    At first I thought it was my BB but that was eliminated when i got home, took it out checked it and reinstalled with new grease, so I think its either the rear hub or my knees making that noise and my lack of fitness and extra xmas weight making me much slower :)

    I did at first think the frame may be cracked given the noise but I had a check and couldn't see any issues?

    I am pretty sure its not the freewheel as that turning fine with no resistance so will try servicing the hub bearings and see where I get to.
    Obsessed is a word used by the lazy to describe the dedicated!
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    Yeah, I think it is 15/17 spanners you need. I had some RS31s and those were the sizes I used.

    When it comes to the bearings, take the wheel out, hold the axle ends with your thumbs/fore fingers and then give it a spin. Small vibrations or rumblings usually indicate something is not right such as pitted cones/worn balls or gritty/lack of grease. It is also a good way of detecting if the tension has also gone awry somehow, causing drag (which can also be caused by a few other reasons associated with ingress/wear).

    If you haven't done servicing before, it might be worth taking the spanners out with you for the first ride just in case you haven't quite got the pre-load tightening right (always good to have a quick check at the first cafe stop).

    I have always found the Shimano bearing seals (Tiagra/Ultegra) to be very good and the bearings just need the odd service each year whereas my Campag Zondas seem to need servicing every couple of months (I do ride in some shocking weather though).
  • JesseD
    JesseD Posts: 1,961
    Couldn't get the cone spanners quickly so took the wheel to my LBS to get looked at and it turns out it was the freehub, they took it off and the insides had basically started to disintegrate!

    So am now awaiting a new freehub!
    Obsessed is a word used by the lazy to describe the dedicated!
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Crikey! That's an appallingly short lifespan for a Shimano freehub. My RS10s are still OK after 8 years / 5 winters (they went on the summer bike when I got it 3 years ago)

    I really must have a look at the R501s on the winter bike. I went out on Saturday evening and got a proper soaking. Can't afford to be trashing wheels right now; the dishwasher went tits-up on Friday night
  • JesseD
    JesseD Posts: 1,961
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19777067#p19777067]keef66[/url] wrote:
    Crikey! That's an appallingly short lifespan for a Shimano freehub. My RS10s are still OK after 8 years / 5 winters (they went on the summer bike when I got it 3 years ago)

    I really must have a look at the R501s on the winter bike. I went out on Saturday evening and got a proper soaking. Can't afford to be trashing wheels right now; the dishwasher went tits-up on Friday night

    It never rains, it pours!

    I was shocked at how long it lasted to be honest, but I have ridden in some really bad weather this winter and they have had a hammering, that said 9 months is not long for a freehub to last.

    Think I will get it fixed and leave as a spare, am considering a pair of Mavic Askiums as training wheels for the winter bike as I have heard good reviews that they are bomb proof.
    Obsessed is a word used by the lazy to describe the dedicated!
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    ...not heard about the squeal of death yet then??

    :)

    Edit: If you haven't, have a look around. I had some Mavic Aksiums, good training wheels but the most memorable thing about them for me is the squeal of the freehub dying on one ride.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    From my considerable time spent haunting cycling forums, I'd got the impression that the seals on Shimano hubs were a bit better than the average TBH.
    The lower end Fulcrums apparently have cartridge bearings sealed on one side only, so they can sell CX versions with seals both sides :roll: . Neither hub is particularly weather proof
    Mavics appear to use cartridge bearings too, but their particular weakness is that plastic bushing behind the freehub; it needs a bit more care than I think a cycle hub should.

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