Cranks not going on fully/enough
bg44097
Posts: 4
So after a lot of work and effort I finally got my bike built, after my second ride the left hand crank arms square tapper connector literally shredded (side note, why did this happen?) Anyway after buying a cheap replacement from halfords... I put it on to find that the gap in between the bb and the cranks was 1cm+. I understand that it's supposed to have some space, but this seems unsafe to ride and I don't want to have to splash out on a 3rd crank arm. How do I fix this? am I doing something wrong? I'll attach a picture.
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Comments
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Looks like you have the wrong cranks for your bottom bracket.
Or wrong BB for your new cranks.
They need to be correct.
For that you need to know the axle length and the axle length required for the cranks."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
no the cranks are for a 110mm bb, the right hand one go's on perfectly. This isn't the problemLooks like you have the wrong cranks for your bottom bracket.
Or wrong BB for your new cranks.
They need to be correct.
For that you need to know the axle length and the axle length required for the cranks.0 -
Square taper goes if it loosens, mainly on the non drive side because of the way it turns - unscrews the bolt.
Cheap ones especially.
Maybe cheap is why it doesn't fit, or what Nicklouse said.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Either the crank is duff or it's designed for a narrower axle.
If you have a wide (say 123mm) axle you do get a big gap by design anyway.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
and the axle length is? and no axles are not positioned centerally in the BB.
no the cranks are for a 110mm bb, the right hand one go's on perfectly. This isn't the problemLooks like you have the wrong cranks for your bottom bracket.
Or wrong BB for your new cranks.
They need to be correct.
For that you need to know the axle length and the axle length required for the cranks."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
My commuter with cheap and nasty cranks - looks ok to me.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
I'll just file it a bit so it goes on a little better, after all this is only a temporary replacement. Ill be getting new ones at Christmas hopefully. Will some sort of screw sealant/adhesive stop the bolt from unscrewing? I can pick some up next weekend. for the mean time Ill carry a set of allen keys to make sure it's not coming loose.0
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It's because it's a generic replacement to work with as many options as possible, if its on and tight with no movement then its goo, the gap isn't a problem0
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If you file it you may as well just throw it away and save yourself the effort now, you'll never match the taper profile well enough to use them safely again.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
