Fox forks

benjidoo
benjidoo Posts: 6
edited May 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
I have a pair of FOX 32 float CTD 29 o/c 100mm forks, and I have bent the lowers. Will any fox 32s lowers fit on them or do I need the exact same ones. I am on the lookout but am not sure what I am after. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks.

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  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    benjidoo wrote:
    I have a pair of FOX 32 float CTD 29 o/c 100mm forks, and I have bent the lowers. Will any fox 32s lowers fit on them or do I need the exact same ones. I am on the lookout but am not sure what I am after. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks.

    How did you manage that? They'll need to be off another set of 29er fork as well as being 32s.
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  • benjidoo
    benjidoo Posts: 6
    My mate went into what looked like a shallow puddle, it wasnt. His wheel stopped dead, he unclipped and flung his foot out straight into my fork and through my wheel. I went head over tit and my fork is about 2mm out of true.
    So are the lowers on all 32s the same? Do i just need any 29" 32s? And do they need to be o/c?

    Thanks
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    Not 100% certain as I've never stripped a set if fox forks but have done a few pairs of rockshox. Most parts are contained within the stanchions, the o/c bit refers to the damper which is open cartridge, again should be contained within the stanchions.

    Your best bet is to speak to somebody like tf tuned, mojo or loco tuning as they'll know what's needed for definite.
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  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Are you sure it's the lowers that are bent and not the stanchion or crown?
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  • benjidoo
    benjidoo Posts: 6
    I took them into Evans and they said it was the lowers, as they are made from a softer metal.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I suspect Evans are talking b0ll0ks.
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I'm with CD, strip them down and check, easy to check the stanchions once the lowers are off by using a straight edge.

    Lower material may be 'softer' (they mean a lower yield strength material which is not the same thing) but it's also a lot thicker, my money is on the stanchions which would mean a new CSU (Crown Steerer Upper) which may mean it's not economical.

    When you say 2mm out of true? do you mean bent backwards or the fork is twisted so the axle is no longer parallel to the crown?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • dusk
    dusk Posts: 583
    I would have also thought that lowers are more likely to crack than bend, vice versa with crown and stanchions
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  • benjidoo
    benjidoo Posts: 6
    They are bent inwards, so that the rotor has rubbed on the inside of the fork. When the wheel, which is true, is set in the fork it was off centre.
    I am not too bothered as I have got a new fork, but if I could pick up the lowers for a few quid, I was going to fix them and sell them on to pay towards my new ones.
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    benjidoo wrote:
    My mate went into what looked like a shallow puddle, it wasnt. His wheel stopped dead, he unclipped and flung his foot out straight into my fork and through my wheel. I went head over tit and my fork is about 2mm out of true.


    Big ouch - is your mate ok - his leg must be a mess from that and I guess you were not unscathed either.
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

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  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    benjidoo wrote:
    My mate went into what looked like a shallow puddle, it wasnt. His wheel stopped dead, he unclipped and flung his foot out straight into my fork and through my wheel. I went head over tit and my fork is about 2mm out of true

    Oof...always good policy to lift the front wheel when going through any water on the trail I say. How's his foot?
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  • benjidoo
    benjidoo Posts: 6
    Both unscathed happily, we were going quite slow, it was quite funny at the time.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    benjidoo wrote:
    They are bent inwards, so that the rotor has rubbed on the inside of the fork. When the wheel, which is true, is set in the fork it was off centre.
    If that were the case, it would be the lowers if anything, seems a very strange failure! Have you tried the wheel in another fork, a bent axle would do the same.

    I presume you don't mean bent inwards as that would narrow the distance between them, only possible if the axle is bent (or something in spacer/wheel if its a through axle) but bent sideways perhaps?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • loudog
    loudog Posts: 136
    Few weeks ago I took some RS revelations into the bike shop thinking I had bent the lowers inwards. I flipped the the bike upside to show the mechanic and he said "wow, doesn't look good". Upon removing the wheel turns out nothing was wrong, it's just how the lowers had been machined. a sort of optical illusion. We were both wrong

    I think it would take something much more substantial to bend them than what your saying.
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