Commuting on an HT MTB- Full StripService, vs New Cheap Bike
wolfsbane2k
Posts: 3,056
Hi,.
I've currently got an almost stock Kona Hoss 2007 MTB with Semi Slicks which I've not ridden or touched for about a year after changing jobs and having a second kid, and I've just managed to start out again, with the intention of commuting in 7 miles each day in a months time, but at the moment I'm close to 285lbs, or 130kg and 6ft 7" tall..
I've taken it out for 2 16 miler rides this week, mixed on gravel tracks (20%) and tarmac (80%) , and I've spotted a lot of work needs to be done to it:
1) Creaking Drive Train.
2) New Pads for rear disk brakes ( Hayes So1e)
3) Bleed and pads for front brakes ( Haye so1e)
4) 2x New tyres - looking at Continental Travel Contacts again.
5) New Seat needed (Seat "top" is loose from the seat rails)
6) Front wheel needs truing.
7) New Pedals needed ( M505s currently, needed flats/cleats, thinking M424 probably)
Thankfully, the gearing all seems ok - the derailleurs were all replaced with Shimano XT's 2 ago when I bent the rear deore set 90* on a rock and continued to pedal at full pelt and the cables were done at the same time, and I've always tried to keep the "easy" bit clean and checked the gears/cable weekly while I was riding it.
From what I can tell, this lot is about £130 minimum for parts, and I really want to replace the So1e with something more suitable ( Avid Juicy 3 possibly) and a full service at the LBS is going to be £70 minimum, and I can guess that they will recommend more parts for replacement.
My other option is a new cyclocross bike for ~ £500, purchased with a cycle2work scheme, but at £500, I can't seem to find that good a cyclocross bike that can cope with my weight...
Any recommendations greatly appreciated.
W
I've currently got an almost stock Kona Hoss 2007 MTB with Semi Slicks which I've not ridden or touched for about a year after changing jobs and having a second kid, and I've just managed to start out again, with the intention of commuting in 7 miles each day in a months time, but at the moment I'm close to 285lbs, or 130kg and 6ft 7" tall..
I've taken it out for 2 16 miler rides this week, mixed on gravel tracks (20%) and tarmac (80%) , and I've spotted a lot of work needs to be done to it:
1) Creaking Drive Train.
2) New Pads for rear disk brakes ( Hayes So1e)
3) Bleed and pads for front brakes ( Haye so1e)
4) 2x New tyres - looking at Continental Travel Contacts again.
5) New Seat needed (Seat "top" is loose from the seat rails)
6) Front wheel needs truing.
7) New Pedals needed ( M505s currently, needed flats/cleats, thinking M424 probably)
Thankfully, the gearing all seems ok - the derailleurs were all replaced with Shimano XT's 2 ago when I bent the rear deore set 90* on a rock and continued to pedal at full pelt and the cables were done at the same time, and I've always tried to keep the "easy" bit clean and checked the gears/cable weekly while I was riding it.
From what I can tell, this lot is about £130 minimum for parts, and I really want to replace the So1e with something more suitable ( Avid Juicy 3 possibly) and a full service at the LBS is going to be £70 minimum, and I can guess that they will recommend more parts for replacement.
My other option is a new cyclocross bike for ~ £500, purchased with a cycle2work scheme, but at £500, I can't seem to find that good a cyclocross bike that can cope with my weight...
Any recommendations greatly appreciated.
W
Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
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Comments
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Ps, and I've not still not replaced the front forks on the MTB, which is still leading to this problem:
viewtopic.php?f=20005&t=12926890&p=18376541#p18376541Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...0 -
I had Mavic try to blame broken cross wheels on my weight at 83.5kg - so for 130kg I would say straight off no to a cross bike without a thorough SWL (safe working load) check. The safe limit for some Mavic wheels (I had a look after they unsuccessfully tried this crap on me) is 100kg bike and rider, others say 85kg for rider.
Chain Set /Drive Chain there are some good xt deals out there at present - even the older xtr can be picked up cheap. Check out epicbleedsolutions for a brake bleeding kit (costs less than one trip to LBS). Learn to true/build wheels is a must if you cycle on anything apart from great flat tarmac. M424s are the plastic surrounds aren't they - I trashed a pair quite quickly - maybe consider the similar model with metal cage surround.
Or if LBS are really cool - talk it through with them and work out what you can do and what they have to. If they don't understand that some people wanna do their own maintenance / save some cash then find a new LBS - it is not as if you are thinking of just showrooming and then buying off wiggle0 -
Personally I'd look for decent used parts locally and fix it up myself, maybe swap to Deore brakes though as a good upgrade and all sorted all in one.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
